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How to remove the turbo (Defender 200tdi)


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Hi,

My defender 200tdi turbo has considerable play so I'm planning to replace the cartridge. 

I have never worked on the turbo so I'm wondering if anybody has any tips on how to remove it easily. 

Is it possible to undo the 4 bolts directly after the housing, the actuator and oil lines and than remove it or do I have to remove the manifold as well? 

Tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. 

Cheers,

 

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When I did mine I removed the manifold from the truck to make it easier to work on. Be careful when trying to get it undone as I found everything to be very tight and rusted on.

 

I ended up heating the nuts up with MAPP gas to avoid sheering off the studs

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To avoid any possibility of damage I thinks its best to follow the advice from Western and remove the whole unit first rather than do it in situ. It will allow you to clearly see what you are doing and give you room to work as the housing can be stubborn to remove. 

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Indeed. The nuts holding the turbo onto the manifold will be seized to buggery and so will require judicious application of heat to undo. The ones holding the two halves of the turbo itself together doubly so.

Took me a good hour or so with MAPP torch and release oil to get them all off. 

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5 hours ago, marieholm said:

Hi Western,

Thanks for the quick respons. I can't just remove te 4 bolts on the housing and remove the front of the turbo?

 

 

Nope, you have to remove the other items to gain access to the 4 nuts also you need to use a open jaw spanner,  

I couldn't get a ring spanner to fit or have remove to move it.  Access for a spanner to undo the oil drain connections is extremely difficult or nigh on impossible with turbo bolted to engine 

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IMO, you are best to remove the whole thing with manifold and oil cooler lines.  Then change the cartridge on the bench.

I would also get new OEM oil cooler hoses and a quality (Lemforder) manifold gasket.  You will need the turbo to manifold gasket as well.  If in a hurry, buy studs and nuts for the manifol to turbo connection.  You can leave the turbo exhaust outlet in place.

Seized nuts and broken studs are common.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

So after Some fiddling I took of the whole manifold as red90 suggested. 

Two of the turbo bolts where stuck And broke. 

With a lot of penetrating oil And Some luck I got all the ends out.

now I just have to “split” the turbo houding. 

 

Is this a case of more oil And Some light tappend with a wooden hammer? 

06265AE7-1ADE-4955-96E4-BB377DD11BB5.jpeg

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Put it in the oven at 100C for an hour on a baking tray you really don't care about. I've taken many a turbo apart; you've got pretty much no chance without a good bit of heat. May require some extra heat on the snail housing even so. 

Just don't let the Mrs catch you/buy her a new baking tray ahead of the even! Don't get it too hot either, or you'll stink the house out with burning oil.

Edited by lo-fi
Forgot baking tray
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ITS OUT!!!!!

some extra lubrication And light tapping with the hammer did the trick. 

Thank God mo need for turbocharging the oven of the mrs.

For the circlip I trimmed a small pliers which worked well.

 

so what do is smart to change out besides the cartridge?

is the waste gate something to check? 

 

Any other tips?

 

 

84F9540B-F376-42F8-93EB-70465F91E91A.jpeg

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Well done! Wastegate and linkage itself is non-serviceable, but check that the linkage is free to rotate, that it's not rattling round in the hole, and most importantly that there are no major cracks in the housing around the wastegate hole. 

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