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Lowest effort rx 8 seat fitting to 90


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On 2/23/2020 at 7:51 AM, mad_pete said:

Found these 

https://www.raptor4x4.co.uk/raptor-4x4-removable-seat-fitting-kit-for-defender.html

How does the the Land Rover seat base remove ? Well more how does it stay on place I guess. The rx8 base is held on with 4 bolts but how much holding does a seat base need ?  Wondering if short studs would make it removable.

Hmmm good idea in one sense....but surely the rails would come loose overtime with just hand tightening torque....

Personally I used the original Defender seat rails, welded/botled them to the RX8 seats (RX8 main rail removed, sliding part still attached).

With regards to the airbags, I've left mine in. 

I've installed a cut out part with battery isolator and Anderson socket incase I need to disconnect battery or jump start. The battery is still somewhat accessible with the seat slid forward, but I wouldn't be able to remove it. Removing the seat only takes 2 mins anyway.

 

Toby

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I’m trying to think if I pick the same holes up (front or back and extend) or need a couple of mm for the seat to clear the door and need some rails to give me a little move over. Especially the drivers with the buttons on.

 

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Due to me needing a middle seat, I had to remove the buttons to allow the door to shut. I never need to move it, but I keep the removable part of the button in the dash incase

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

So I’m feeling brave enough to break the welder out. What’s the best option to extend the rx rail at the back ? I have the original runners I think but I’ve not understood what the merge options with that would be. I have some 2 inch rectangular box which I might use for drivers side to nudge it over if I need to.

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18 hours ago, mad_pete said:

Or I can pull apart random things I find in the house or shed ...E90D827A-205A-4FB6-84DE-2E34E2BFB318.thumb.jpeg.4af71ef58147d894e05f369aee2b5653.jpeg

That'll do :D

 

I cut the runners off my original Defender seats, welded them in place and put a couple bolts in to be safe.

Just bear in mind, if you have a middle seat, you'll struggle to get the doors shut with the electric seat adjuster buttons on. If you have a cubbybox, you'll be fine

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  • 1 month later...

I have the cubby. I’m thinking I want to kick the seats up at the back to get them more level. Not sure what angle the rx8 has them at but I’m might look to put the rx8 runners level with maybe some box section or spacer at the rear.

maybe flat bar from the front with spacer at back.

Lowest effort seems unlikely at this point. 🙂

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  • 2 months later...

I’ve cut some rails to mount on. I’m now weighing up which bolt holes to use so I can actually reach them to do up. I have a truck cab at the moment so the seats won’t go back much anyway. I don’t know to pick up the front bolt to the rx seat or mount them to the rail and then the rail to the seat box.

(also wondering about the  viability of a sliding rail system that secures from the side that would let me get at most of the battery box.....)

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  • 4 weeks later...
7 hours ago, Jon W said:

@mad_pete Have you seen these? May save a lot of work for you

 

https://www.edgegarage.co.uk/rx8-seat-conversions#7

May help 

 

Jon 

Thanks for the post. That was the original plan but they just took my money and gave me the run around for weeks.  I have indeed proceeded to label them weasels. Still credit company got my money back that was good. 

I’m now considering giving up least effort and go all the way to telescoping rails for battery box access in the truck cab. 
 

Anyone offer a consulting engineering service here ? 🙂

(in return for money as as mentioned I have some back for the project) 

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Ah Fair enough, good to know not to bother going down that route. 

Another bolt in option which didnt seem to expensive were the raptor seat and rails kits, can be had cheap enough (well £350 all in)  and then sell on your RX8 seats. 

Jon 

 

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5 hours ago, mad_pete said:

Anyone offer a consulting engineering service here ? 🙂

Always game, what are you actually trying to achieve apart from bolting some seats in? :P

 

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Things to achieve :


1) I do want to bolt the seats in. It’s been months I want to get the seats in

2) I want to make sure it’s safe, these are heavier seats don’t want to be the filling in a seat / seat belt sandwich.

3) I want them fairly level and get a good seating position for me, I’ve got some angry  tissue at the top front of my hip that protests about thighs above hips bucket seat position. If this does work I might think about changing the truck cab to get some extra space but seats first.

4) I want to have the doors shut and ideally the drivers adjust buttons still on

5) I want to still get at the battery box. I’ve seen hinge backwards designs As mine is a truck cab that won’t go. I’m looking at maybe so sliders a section that bolts to the seat and a channel in the runners with side bolts that let the seat slide forward. Alternatively the seat base is held on with bolts can this change to dowels at all to pull out like the defender one does.

 

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10 hours ago, mad_pete said:

1) I do want to bolt the seats in. It’s been months I want to get the seats in

Just bolt them in then :P

10 hours ago, mad_pete said:

2) I want to make sure it’s safe, these are heavier seats don’t want to be the filling in a seat / seat belt sandwich.

I'm assuming that your seat belts are attached to the truck cab itself, in which case any fixing of the seats only really needs to take the weight of the seat because you're being held in by the seatbelt in the event of a crash. Fundamentally you're going to be limited by the seat box being made of aluminium more than anything else. On my L322 seats I simply relocated the captive plates that were there for the Defender seats into an appropriate location for the seats. The only thing you could do is make up some larger spreader plates to go inside the seat box (in fact I might have done this, I can't actually remember!).

10 hours ago, mad_pete said:

3) I want them fairly level and get a good seating position for me, I’ve got some angry  tissue at the top front of my hip that protests about thighs above hips bucket seat position. If this does work I might think about changing the truck cab to get some extra space but seats first.

I'd be inclined to get them bolted in and try a few drives - I thought the same thing about the L322 seats but I just bolted (well mostly :ph34r:) the seats in and did a couple of local drives to see how it feels. I actually found that tilting them flat / forwards was actually less comfortable than slightly reclined back - but that's probably down to the fact that my seat squabs are almost twice the thickness than anything on a Defender seat.

10 hours ago, mad_pete said:

4) I want to have the doors shut and ideally the drivers adjust buttons still on

I'd refer back to point 3 - find a comfortable position first, the drivers buttons will just be wiring at the end of the day so once you've got the position sorted then you can relocate the buttons if you feel it necessary. If they're not easily removable then it might be worth removing the door card just for some test runs to see how it feels.

I found that I could just squeeze the control box for the Range Rover seats in - to adjust with the door shut I have to ram my little finger down between the door card and the seat but I can do it. After 5 years I still haven't got around to relocating them anywhere else.

10 hours ago, mad_pete said:

5) I want to still get at the battery box. I’ve seen hinge backwards designs As mine is a truck cab that won’t go. I’m looking at maybe so sliders a section that bolts to the seat and a channel in the runners with side bolts that let the seat slide forward. Alternatively the seat base is held on with bolts can this change to dowels at all to pull out like the defender one does.

Do you actually?

In all seriousness how often do you go into the battery box - I realise being a truck cab you don't have as much storage space so probably more often than me. I found with the L322 seats I could lift them up high enough that I can squeeze my arm underneath the squab and gain access for stuff if I needed to. As I relocated the four captive bolts if I do want to do anything significant it's easy enough to whip off the seat with a whizzy gun and be done with it. I have wondered about some 1/4 turn latches instead of the bolts but I suspect they'll be too bulky.

I'd also question whether you've got enough space to tilt back / forwards the seats to be useful in a truck-cab. I seriously doubt I could do that even with Defender seats in the 6x6 which is a truck cab also.

Some points to consider:

  • Battery - shove an Anderson connector onto it and call it job done - that way if you've got a flat battery you can jump start it relatively easily.
  • Storage - what about cutting a hole in the side of the seat box (or front) for easier access.
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On 10/10/2020 at 9:17 AM, mad_pete said:

I want them fairly level and get a good seating position for me

I found that lifting the back to get the seat base level meant I was so high that I restricted my view up the road and I am only 6ft tall so not excessive

I did find it uncomfortable with no lift as the seat squab pressed under my thighs

I did make some sloping runners out of 2mm steel to fit a range rover seat in but then sold the seat to someone who needed it for its original purpose. I just folded bits and stuck them together 

DSC_0855.thumb.jpg.cbd870272c8a4534744721d56f8fc3ba.jpgDSC_0860.thumb.jpg.b0d828e4626664bcd4ba897a65f3c58d.jpg

 

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The issue with the battery access for tings like I got the exhaust welded and they wanted to disconnect the battery or for events (although hard core winch challenge days may be behind me 🙂 ) Marshall’s want to see the battery is bolted in.  I have an external charge point and a battery cut off I could put in but I like to be able to get at the battery box easily if possible. 

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more ideas

take a look at dzus and/or camloc fasteners. Typically used for holding aircraft panels. I tried looking at their tensile strengths but couldn't decide whether they were strong enough. they make versions that take coins and allen keys

alternatively use rivnuts and bolts, I have previously welded repair washers on edge to the head of a high tensile bolt to make them quick to remove without tools

as long as you don't use vastly over length bolts then 4 bolts aren't too difficult to remove with a quarter inch socket set

I have also thought about having flanges fitted to the seat and runners and a stainless rod push through holes in both to make it even easier to remove a seat although that adds a bit to the height needed

if the back mountings, where you have the height available, were made as push in fit then you could reduce it to 2 bolts at the front of the seat

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On 1/25/2020 at 12:51 PM, mad_pete said:

now I need to work out how to get the outside cover but not the explosive bit.

I know a reliable way to separate the two! 💣😉

When I was looking up the schematic for L320 seats, I found a thread on a Ford Forum where someone asked what the yellow wires were for?  Someone (helpfully) suggested it might be for the electric seat motors.
The next photo showed the seat utterly obliterated by the air-bags exploding! "No, not the seat motor!". 

It made me realise what a good forum this is - tempting to suggest though it would be! 😉

Si

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