mad_pete Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 On 10/17/2020 at 8:23 AM, Ed Poore said: Was wondering if you could make the rails quick release with a horizontal lynch pin? That’s the area I’m thinking. I’ve seen tip back done but in the truck cab there is only one way to go. I did try and get on with bolting in but the chuck slipped off my pillar drill and I think I need to smooth the taper a touch first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted November 3, 2020 Author Share Posted November 3, 2020 So minor detour while I sort this out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 Interesting! I was looking at mine the other day, as I wanted a keyless check. On doing some research I found that my existing keyed chuck was held in place by a Jacobs taper and a threaded collar to hold it in place. I could not find a keyless check with a threaded collar and so now I'm just going to buy a new chuck key as that was the only thing that was wrong with mine! Has yours sheared or just fallen out? I read online that the taper should be sufficient for dilling holes but apllying side loading could see it pop out. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted November 3, 2020 Author Share Posted November 3, 2020 It popped out. I did slightly side load it but I think the taper could do with some tlc. Im smoothing it out a little make sure I have no ridges. This is my keyless chuck https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/high-quality-precision-keyless-drill-chuck-1-13-mm-jt6-mount/ On mine the threaded collar is for removal of it just the taper holds it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 The threaded collar is on the chuck itself on mine and yes, it is for removal purposes. Mines a J33 taper. I'll be interested in measurements of the start and end of that taper to compare as I'm pretty sure I have a J33, but you never know! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Not wanting to diverge too much but I had to get the callipers out and look mine up. http://www.jacobschuck.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/jacobs-technical-information.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 49 minutes ago, mad_pete said: Not wanting to diverge too much but I had to get the callipers out and look mine up. http://www.jacobschuck.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/jacobs-technical-information.pdf Oh yes, I've found that!! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Right chuck on rails in. This is what in thinking if the rails could super extend. I could mount two lots of rails but I don't like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 By two lots of rails I mean I could add the existing seat rails to the ones already on the seat. Some sort of telescoping section would be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 So my current problem is my in car computer box stops me being able to move the seat back enough to put the front bolts in (the joys of a truck cab). I’ll look at moving that and see if it helps. I could weld some extending tabs on but I’ll try to avoid that if I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 The slide on the seat gives me about all I'm going to get and I think thats enough. Rear bolts to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 For the air bags my mate took them apart and removed the bang part. There is a bolt I think just be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 Hmm I'm mounted on the seat bolts at the front but the rear rail mount points are coming in slightly like the fronts are too wide. Ivan mount them there but that seems a bit odd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 24, 2020 Author Share Posted December 24, 2020 I thought the rail track was supposed to be the same between rx8 and defender seats but I’m showing 0.7 cm difference in hole centres distance at the front which is why it’s bending in at the back. I’m going to slot the front holes a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 26, 2020 Author Share Posted December 26, 2020 Just sheared one of my bolts off and cross threaded the captive nut so I guess now is a good time to talk bolt strength and spreader plates. Ideally I want something captive to bolt into but can’t seem to find anything that has the nut already attached that isn’t massive. Should I have high strength bolts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 I don't think it matters particularly on the strength - you just over did it, I use standard M8 8.8s on my L322 seats. If you have a look at the design of the seatbox you'll see it's a load of panels pop riveted together near the rear. Don't do what I did and only span the main bit at the front. It eventually wore through the pop rivets and broke with vibrations. OK the 322 seats are probably a damn sight heavier but make the spreader plates big enough to span the joins. I can try and take some photos when (maybe if) I get back home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 W Okay that's one in. The offset bolts clip the rail at full forward. Position wise I'm happy and it's a great seat. Might tidy it all up later. Maybe make it again out of something a touch thicker. That’s the easy one done. Onto the heavy awkward drivers one. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 28, 2020 Author Share Posted December 28, 2020 Okay as it’s an mot requirement that seats move I plan to wire up the drivers for movement. The wire colors are listed as:Seat Motion Grey - +12v Purple - Ground Lumbar Yellow w/red stripe - +12v White w/yellow stripe Ground Seat Heater Blue - +12v So I need to find a pretty relay board to put some relays in and find some heated seat buttons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Depending on the current requirement, I've used a few of these type of things: 4 Way 12V Relay Board This is 'rated' at 30A, though it's a slightly Chinese 30A - so probably good for 10-15A long term. That said, they've been pretty good. Fot my heated seats, I used a simple timer relay such as: Timer Relay This one has delay on + delay off. Just set the delay on to zero (so it switches on immediately). 10 mins seems to be about right to save your bottom from getting singed! Si 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Well I hooked up purple and grey and it made moving noises so that looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted December 30, 2020 Author Share Posted December 30, 2020 So into the complex world of crimpers and connectors. I looked on the forum and Lois like a minefield. I ideally want a six pin connector with the right crimping tool. The seat move wire looks pretty thick so maybe a 15 amp connection. Anyone have suggestions for tool and connector set to get please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Got my other seat box out as that's probably easier than lifting the seat. Just straightening it out a bit. Did some more rail shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 I think matching the Rx rail width is the way to go. I think mud rails would be a bit narrow. Need to see if the adjuster will clear the bolt head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Bolt does clear the tracks on movement so that’s good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeD Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 (edited) If you need more clearance on those bolts look up "button allen key bolt" they can be had in 10.9 for strength Edited January 19, 2021 by MikeD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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