Jump to content

Lowest effort rx 8 seat fitting to 90


mad_pete
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 10/17/2020 at 8:23 AM, Ed Poore said:

Was wondering if you could make the rails quick release with a horizontal lynch pin?

That’s the area I’m thinking. I’ve seen tip back done but in the truck cab there is only one way to go. I did try and get on with bolting in but the chuck slipped off my pillar drill and I think I need to smooth the taper a touch first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Interesting!

I was looking at mine the other day, as I wanted a keyless check. On doing some research I found that my existing keyed chuck was held in place by a Jacobs taper and a threaded collar to hold it in place.

I could not find a keyless check with a threaded collar and so now I'm just going to buy a new chuck key as that was the only thing that was wrong with mine!

Has yours sheared or just fallen out? I read online that the taper should be sufficient for dilling holes but apllying side loading could see it pop out.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It popped out. I did slightly side load it but I think the taper could do with some tlc.

Im smoothing it out a little make sure I have no ridges.


9161FFBB-1F52-46B1-A86C-DCF57EBC6A71.jpeg.c1bbe5541075e370f222b40b7f37bf04.jpeg

 

This is my keyless chuck https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/high-quality-precision-keyless-drill-chuck-1-13-mm-jt6-mount/
 

On mine the threaded collar is for removal of it just the taper holds it in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

So my current problem is my in car computer box stops me being able to move the seat back enough to put the front bolts in (the joys of a truck cab).  I’ll look at moving that and see if it helps. I could weld some extending tabs on but I’ll try to avoid that if I can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I thought the rail track was supposed to be the same between rx8 and defender seats but I’m showing 0.7 cm difference in hole centres distance at the front which is why it’s bending in at the back. I’m going to slot the front holes a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just sheared one of my bolts off and cross threaded the captive nut so I guess now is a good time to talk bolt strength and spreader plates. Ideally I want something captive to bolt into but can’t seem to find anything that has the nut already attached that isn’t massive.  Should I have high strength bolts ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think it matters particularly on the strength - you just over did it, I use standard M8 8.8s on my L322 seats.

If you have a look at the design of the seatbox you'll see it's a load of panels pop riveted together near the rear. Don't do what I did and only span the main bit at the front. It eventually wore through the pop rivets and broke with vibrations. OK the 322 seats are probably a damn sight heavier but make the spreader plates big enough to span the joins.

I can try and take some photos when (maybe if) I get back home.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_20201227_152201.thumb.jpg.979f72961efe8c5fe7829ef534d113f4.jpg

WIMG_20201227_152208.thumb.jpg.429734058d126b3551845b28379df52b.jpg

 

IMG_20201227_152239.thumb.jpg.8194f7e63bb594cb93a964348c31c87e.jpg

Okay that's one in. The offset bolts clip the rail at full forward. Position wise I'm happy and it's a great seat. Might tidy it all up later. Maybe make it again out of something a touch thicker. 
 

That’s the easy one done. Onto the heavy awkward drivers one. 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay as it’s an mot requirement that seats move I plan to wire up the drivers for movement.

The wire colors are listed as:

Seat Motion

Grey - +12v
Purple - Ground

Lumbar

Yellow w/red stripe - +12v
White w/yellow stripe Ground

Seat Heater

Blue - +12v
 
So I need to find a pretty relay board to put some relays in and find some heated seat buttons.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on the current requirement, I've used a few of these type of things:

4 Way 12V Relay Board

This is 'rated' at 30A, though it's a slightly Chinese 30A - so probably good for 10-15A long term.  That said, they've been pretty good.

Fot my heated seats, I used a simple timer relay such as:

Timer Relay

This one has delay on + delay off.  Just set the delay on to zero (so it switches on immediately).  10 mins seems to be about right to save your bottom from getting singed!

Si

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So into the complex world of crimpers and connectors. I looked on the forum and Lois like a minefield. I ideally want a six pin connector with the right crimping tool. The seat move wire looks pretty thick so maybe a 15 amp connection. Anyone have suggestions for tool and connector set to get please ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy