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Intermittent clutch after replacement - O/D Rebuild (Combined Thread)


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The unit behaves the same way as a two-speed automatic, except that automatics usually use hydraulic pressure in both directions, holding each gear in drive, not using springs in one direction.  They always have the clutch packs immersed, so I can't imagine for a moment this would be different - the linings would overheat and break up in no time if they weren't lubricated while in their slipping mode.

I still think you need to test the springs' stiffness, not just their length, and check whichever clutch pack is compressed by the springs for wear, if just to rule them out and point the finger squarely at the piston o-ring leak.

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Given you have a spare OD, I think you have three options Ralph

1. Use the springs from your old OD in the one you bought from Neil and see if that fixes it

2. Use the rear casing from your old OD on the unit you bought from Neil - this would rule out the pump and solenoid bore then

3. Replace the broken part in your old OD with the part from this one

Point three has the best chances of success and is least faff as it really ought to work, but having tried to help Neil fix that OD you have now, I am curious if 1 or 2 would fix it as I have a slipping one on the shelf!!

The springs came from D44 I think so one would expect them to be ok, but as pointed out above, no guarantee

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FF. I have no idea if any of your suggestions would work, I can't have my 110 off the road to sort out a none hydraulic/ electrical system, it's my only vehicle. 

 

Swapping the rear case with pistons in might work but I would want to replace the seals first & swap the filter as one is now very clean, my old unit is stripped & hasn't seen any oil for a year, so wouldn't trust the seals, if it doesn't fix the problem.

I would also need to use the planet gear set from this overdrive as my old one was siezed. 

Think I will order a set of piston seals & 4 springs & see if that works, my old unit started slipping as well but the might have been down to the broken part inside. 

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I presume, that the solenoid on these turns on/off the flow of fluid which moves the friction surfaces apart, thus giving you overdrive.

So in simple terms, if it slips when disengaged, surely it can only be:

  • Friction surfaces failed
  • Springs too weak (that hold the friction surfaces together)
  • High pressure ATF getting past the seals in the solenoid

Have I missed anything there?

 

 

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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

I presume, that the solenoid on these turns on/off the flow of fluid which moves the friction surfaces apart, thus giving you overdrive.

So in simple terms, if it slips when disengaged, surely it can only be:

  • Friction surfaces failed
  • Springs too weak (that hold the friction surfaces together)
  • High pressure ATF getting past the seals in the solenoid

Have I missed anything there?

 

 

I think thats all. The clutch was new on this OD so i think Ralph can rule that out for sure. 

 

My suggestions above would deal with the other two issues. 

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I can swap the solenoid over from my old unit as it was working, bit reluctant to use the springs from my old unit, would rather use new springs, 

The cone friction material is undamaged as are the 2 surfaces it works with, there isn't much else that can be changed, other than new seals in pistons & pump part. 

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Relief valve is clean & free, might be woth swapping the little spring from my old unit, the bore & valve itself look in good condition, 

as to the solenoid I was thinking it may be sticking not fully releasing the pressure.

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The fact it slipped at the first move of the day would suggest it's not hydraulic.... Sometimes just dipping the clutch and going again solved it for days. Hence focus on the springs eventually... (As well as the extensive overhaul...)

I was wondering if there was a way to pack the springs and add a little extra force to them for testing? 

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I don't know, there is no spring info in the booklets that come with the overdrive, Devon 4x4 might have the specs. 

I won't be doing anymore to the unit until 14/15 June as I away on detachment with work for all of next week. 

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I was trying to get my head around Neils idea of spacing the springs last night. If their resting length is the same as the originals, wouldn't spacing them have the effect of making the clutch more difficult to engage in one direction? I cant quite work out which!

GKN would have had the specs once, but goodness knows if they would be able to find them now if you asked and could find anyone helpful there.

Edited by reb78
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My assumptions were basic Rich....

If there is no hydraulic pressure, the OD won't engage.

Therefore the normal / default drive mode must be reliant on the springs holding the brake/clutch cone firmly in one position (locking the sun gear and annulus) and that state being changed when the hydraulic pressure forces the brake/clutch cone into position on the opposite surface (Sun gear locked stationary - forcing drive through the planetary gears / changed gearing)

The hydraulic pressure is quoted to be over 400 psi, so should overcome the springs quite easily, even if the spring rate is increased.....

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bought a 1 inch AF OE spanner, a few minutes meeting with Mr angle grinder it got slimmed down on one side of the open end face & now fits between the OD body & solenoid, which was removed & inspected, looked very clean, but gave it a blast or 2 with brake cleaner, no nasty gunk in the port it occupies either. so this bit is looking fine. solenoid works everytime it was switched on/off too. 

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Pretty sure they go under the long allen bolt heads in the casing. 

 

Eta - £4.79?!?! D44 need to get a grip on their prices!! If you can get bits from Overdrive Repair Services they are always a lot more reasonable!

Edited by reb78
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