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Intermittent clutch after replacement - O/D Rebuild (Combined Thread)


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Thought about that on the way home,

I just can't get my head around the fact it slips when disengaged,  at least I can get the OD off fairly quickly & swap my original springs in to it in a dry place. looks like that's a Saturday morning job now.

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You could measure the ones you have (spec and dimensions) , then go on a hunt for stiffer, similarly proportioned springs.

The only other option is that the solenoid is not sealing properly and allowing some pressure through to disengage slightly. Perhaps even an over-pressure situation - though why that would happen at idle waiting at lights is another question.

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Got my original OD's springs out of the box of bits & ready to swap over. 

the solenoid is from my original unit too & has new seals fitted internally & externally on its shaft/valve,so I'm sure the solly is causing the fault. 

if changing the 4 springs for my originals doesn't cure the fault, this OD is coming off as I mentioned above.

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The planet gear set on my original unit was busted, siiezed, using the original fully resealed rear case now with planet gear set & front case from current unit, not much else to swap over, 

I will measure my original springs against the new set that's currently fitted & see what we get. 

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I agree wit Rich, the springs have the be the solution...

At rest the unit is not producing any oil pressure as it relies on the running gear spinning. It's feed is after the gearbox, therefore at rest, no oil pressure.

When pulling away there is some oil pressure potentially developed but not much because the clutch engagement is the start point and the pump speed is only based on the gearbox output, i.e. really slow. 

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slipping when disengaged does not need any oil pressure. The springs provide the force needed.

Spring     Length of spring       D-outer            D-inner   Wire thicknes           windings
used (Buckeye Triumph)           52,6 – 53,2 14,9 8,9  2,97 12,5
used (my old OD) 54,1 – 54,2 14,9 8,9  3 12,5
new (Devon4x4) 53,7 14,9 8,9                  3

12,5

since I found out the above, I think it is better to put one or two shims (washer) under the springs in order to pressurize them.

Sigi

 

Edited by Sigi_H
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Thanks for the above info, the springs in mine right now were brand new from Devon4x4, I still have the original springs from my original unit,

any thoughts on what thickness the washers should be, I can get suitable alloy washers in 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.6mm, 2.0mm.

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That is interesting. Looking at the numbers old springs vs new springs are around 0.5mm difference. I suspect the old springs will be slightly shorter due to being used? 0.5mm might be all you need though. Its a shame you cant get a 0.75mm thick washer! Too much and it might not be able to run in the engaged position properly!

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Normally used springs will be shorter. But surprisingly the new ones from Devon where. I believe it is not a fault, to compress them a little harder as stock. But it will be possible, that the OD becomes slipping when engaged, because the hydraulic pressure is to low. But this will point to another problem

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At least with it not running in engaged, you can turn it off and get home, at least for this experiment. :)

Looking at the spring length, coils and thickness, you can compress it 16mm before coil bind. Do you know how much they do compress when engaged? That would be the safe check.

Either way, I don't reckon a 2mm shim would hurt it.

M8 washer is 1.6mm x 16mm , I think, could work!

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

At least with it not running in engaged, you can turn it off and get home, at least for this experiment. :)

Looking at the spring length, coils and thickness, you can compress it 16mm before coil bind. Do you know how much they do compress when engaged? That would be the safe check.

Either way, I don't reckon a 2mm shim would hurt it.

M8 washer is 1.6mm x 16mm , I think, could work!

 

 

In my eyes the movement of the conical clutch restricts this compression of the springs. The clutch will only have to move between the body of the annulus and the brakering in the body of the device. I think this will not be more than a few millimeter. 2 or 3 ... thats it.

 

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1 minute ago, Sigi_H said:

In my eyes the movement of the conical clutch restricts this compression of the springs. The clutch will only have to move between the body of the annulus and the brakering in the body of the device. I think this will not be more than a few millimeter. 2 or 3 ... thats it.

 

Cool! So 10mm shim it is then ;) 

 

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No suitable washers easily available at work, so will see what I have in my M8 fastener stock in my garage, 

OD let me down again 4 times morning, it's not doing itself any favours with me, but once it grips drive is OK, would be good to see what's going inside when it's working. 

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