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Intermittent clutch after replacement - O/D Rebuild (Combined Thread)


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Piston & O ring are fine as is the relief valve parts. IIRC the 4 long springs move the brake cone from engaged to disengage position 

Haven't opened the unit up yet, been busy doing garden clearing work here at home

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Its slipping at rest. If it wasnt it would be driveable. I am womdering if the cylinder the solenoid sits in is worn and letting pressure by when the OD is disengaged perhaps. Just enough to give enough pressure to pull the cone from the rest position. 

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I've pretty much replaced all but the case itself at one point...

Rich is right, the oil pressure isn't used when not in Overdrive mode as far as I can work out...

Therefore, the springs are important to keep the pressure on the brake cone and give you normal drive.

When the solenoid is activated, it pumps oil to move the brake cone to lock the internals and force the drive through the three planetary gears.

It should just be clamping pressure from the springs needed for normal drive. So unless oil pressure is getting by the solenoid and acting against the spring pressure, it "should work".

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Although already under pressure when fitting the nuts to the spring retainers, it may be worth trying spacers / washers under the nuts to add a little more spring pressure and see if it make the difference you are looking for?

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9 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

 

Rich is right, the oil pressure isn't used when not in Overdrive mode as far as I can work out...

Therefore, the springs are important to keep the pressure on the brake cone and give you normal drive.

When the solenoid is activated, it pumps oil to move the brake cone to lock the internals and force the drive through the three planetary gears.

It should just be clamping pressure from the springs needed for normal drive. So unless oil pressure is getting by the solenoid and acting against the spring pressure, it "should work".

That makes sense - it would be a fail-safe to leave the car operable if there was an electrical or pump failure.

I'd be surprised if enough oil could get pas a small leak on the o-ring to do this.  Does it go into a sealed actuator?  In that case, a small leak would retain pressure and I can see how a gradual slackening on the clutch pack would occur.  I would have been looking for a problem with the clutch pack linings or the spring pressures, but I'm no engineer and have never used, let alone rebuilt, one of the these.

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9 hours ago, reb78 said:

I agree but the clutch pack and springs are new on that unit ^^^^^.

"New" doesn't guarantee "good", as we know from certain brands (and unbrands).  Even genuine stuff sometimes has flaws, though less common, and there is the possibility of wrong spec replacement parts, given how long the overdrive was in production - a different suffix unit might have subtly different components.  There's no way to tell without close examination of the parts, but I wouldn't rule them out.

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8 hours ago, western said:

I have a boroscope thing which I can have a look inside at the spring. 

That'll reveal if it's broken, but will give no information on the pressure it's applying, especially as temperature increases.  Ideally, it needs testing of its stiffness.

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Boroscope exam this morning didn't show much, all 4 springs look intact but I think further dismantling will be needed at the weekend, 

 

I'll have a read of the link, 

cheers all for the suggestions/advice so far :i-m_so_happy:

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Managed to get some time to open up this overdrive, it's quite clean inside, the 4 springs are the same length as the 4 from my previous unit, haven't found any broken parts, the friction material is intact on both sides, the inner & outer brake ring faces look fine,

only thing I'm not sure of the brake rings & cone friction faces were all coated inPAS fliud is that correct ?

took these photo's & a short video, only thing I can think of is the 2 piston seals  the 4 springs may need changing, can get those from Devon4x4.

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