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Clocking discovery alternator to fit 200tdi?


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I recently bough an alternator branded as a defender 200tdi 100amp alternator. The mounting lug for tensioner is on the wrong side. I was told that the 3 bolt style alternators could be clocked so that the lug could be spun to face the tensioner. I've tried several things including taking the pully off and knocking back the shaft but I still can't figure it out. The stator seems to be pressed Into the front of the casing preventing it from spinning.

 

Am I missing something?

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That is sided to fit a Discovery/RRC 200Tdi, so shouldn’t have been sold as a Defender part.

I have altered 65A units, but not this type, which looks like a 300Tdi type with swapped pulley.  I’m interested in what advice you get - I had assumed that removing those three bolts would allow the front cover to be rotated 120degrees.

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Pully has been removed and shaft knocked through. The stator is bolted to pully side of casing with bolts running through it. The nuts that hold the stator in are not accessable unless you desoldering the windings and pull rear casing off. You can see the small nuts I am talking about on the last photo.

Edited by youngengineer
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I had a 65amp Alt on my Defender spec 200tdi for a few years & replaced it with a 100amp https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/101545-defender-200-tdi-alternator-upgrade/

 

 

my current 100amp alternator bought from a local auto electrics came as part number RE2762 100-067 replaces 54022606,Lucas LRB367, LRB368, LRB291, O.E.M. YLE10100, Thats on the box label mine came in & was a direct swap.this on was fitted 29 Aug 2014 & still working fine.

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It's been a while since I had one of these apart but I don't think the front casting easily comes away from the stator. On the 65A type (and the 45A type on 2.5 NA/TD) the stator can be easily removed. I think on these its more firmly attached. It probably is doable but would need all the back of and the stator unsoldered from the rectifier pack. I'd be tempted to send it back...

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1 hour ago, simonb said:

It's been a while since I had one of these apart but I don't think the front casting easily comes away from the stator. On the 65A type (and the 45A type on 2.5 NA/TD) the stator can be easily removed. I think on these its more firmly attached. It probably is doable but would need all the back of and the stator unsoldered from the rectifier pack. I'd be tempted to send it back...

Yes that's the conclusion I came to. I bought it from Facebook marketplace months ago so it's not exactly refundable. I've now managed to strip the threads on the pully shaft so its pretty much knackered. £100 wasted but I've learnt my lesson. Ordering a new unit tomorrow.

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I did think about that but it involves rec-crimping the terminals which I just did for the previous alternator. I did test for connection between the B+ terminal and spades and seems like they are on the same circuit l. I may still try however as running out of.ideas 

Edited by youngengineer
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Not sure if it's related but my oil pressure warning light now does not go off either. I've just made an adaptor to convert the two round terminals to a single spade and connected it to one of the two large spade terminals.. It's made no difference.. either this alternator is dead on arrival or the charge circuit is broken.

 

Probes between alternator body and battery leads are showing 12.6 volts. So I can assume ground is good so are battery terminals.

Edited by youngengineer
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9 minutes ago, Tanuki said:

You haven't inadvertently swapped the alternator warning-light and the oil-pressure-light wires over have you?

No chance. Nothing has been touched anywhere dashboard or oil filter side of engine. Tachometer does not work either so alternator is not even producing a signal either. I just checked the belt and the alternator is spinning as it should. 

Edited by youngengineer
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