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Bigj66

TD5 Headlight Loom

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I was planning on doing the loom upgrade for my 2004 TD5 but checking under the bonnet I notice that there each headlight is fed by a separate loom with individual colour codes. Does this mean that Landrover had already sorted out the issue with the switch overload by 2004 or does it mean that I will need 4 separate relays to provide a new alternator post feed to the lights?

Failing that are the 2 relays for the later models fitted behind the instrument binnacle rather than under the bonnet so that the separate feed to each main and dipped beam can be wired to them?

I also have a 72w light bar that I want to come on with the main beam so I believe a 30amp relay suffice for the total load?

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On all Td5 models, both head lights are wired from the stalk switch contacts but then split through separate fuses which is why they appear separately at the front, there are no relays on any of them.

The commercially available wiring and relay looms are designed to take the connections to drive the relays from one side only, and then put out a parallel feed to both lights from the same relay, hence only 2 relays, one for dipped and one for main. The wiring as supplied is just long enough to reach with the relays mounted in the N/S inner wing behind the headlight.

As for the light bar, a 30A fuse would be enough but I would be inclined to add a dedicated separate relay and switch.

Edited by crwoody
Clarity

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Wired the light bar separately through a relay this afternoon but checking on the voltage at the headlights I got 9.5v on the dipped beam circuit and 11.5v on the main beam, and that was with the engine running. Need to look at those again but now that I have the light bar coming on with the main beam then I could just look at upgrading the dipped beams and leave the mains alone. I might be able to do something at the back of the dash with those rather than fit more relays into the engine bay.

Also tried to undo the nut on the live post of the alternator but the whole post started to turn so I left it be and just placed another nut onto the remaining thread of the post with the cable lug sandwiched between the two. Is that nut always difficult to undo? I had visions of ripping wiring off if I continued to turn it.

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Only 9.5V at the dipped headlights is very poor, where were you connecting the meter earth? I you have a secure ground connection, it's most likely a sign of the switch failing or possibly poor connections at the fuses.

I would in any case add relays to take the filament current off the switch contacts for both dipped and main, I looked at adding relays in the dash myself but ended up taking the easier option of fitting a Boomslang loom instead and wired the power feed direct to the battery, (via a fuse,) rather than the alternator, it really makes little or no difference.

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Can recommend the Landreizger loom. Very well made and fits perfectly. The cheaper ones (Boomslang etc.) are just the £5 Chinese ones re-boxed, and it shows in the quality and fit.

You can buy the bits from any auto electrics place and make it yourself too, and likely for less outlay. But convenience won for me.

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1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said:

Can recommend the Landreizger loom. Very well made and fits perfectly. The cheaper ones (Boomslang etc.) are just the £5 Chinese ones re-boxed, and it shows in the quality and fit.

You can buy the bits from any auto electrics place and make it yourself too, and likely for less outlay. But convenience won for me.

I’ve been trying to buy the Landreizger loom for a while but they are out of stock at the moment and didn’t reply to an email a few weeks ago when I asked about future availability.

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1 hour ago, crwoody said:

Only 9.5V at the dipped headlights is very poor, where were you connecting the meter earth? I you have a secure ground connection, it's most likely a sign of the switch failing or possibly poor connections at the fuses.

I would in any case add relays to take the filament current off the switch contacts for both dipped and main, I looked at adding relays in the dash myself but ended up taking the easier option of fitting a Boomslang loom instead and wired the power feed direct to the battery, (via a fuse,) rather than the alternator, it really makes little or no difference.

Meter earth was on the engine block so should be pretty good.

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