Arrggh no spark

[2a-Egg]

Right so I have chanhed

Coil

Leads

Points

Condenser 

Plugs

 

And now no spark, so no brum brum... I've also now snapped a spark plug when undoing it. The car started absolutely fine before I changes the points and condenser. Also I replaced some switches on the dash before I did the condenser etc so could I of knocked a cable of blown a fuse. 

[neilc]

What is it actually doing, clicking?  , trying to start ? , The fuses wont cause the problem , are leads on in correct order ? I imagine it's the condenser or points , use the old trick I use to set them with a piece of very thin paper , the points should barely touch , is there a vacuum advance , if so was it put back on ?

[steve b]

The correct way to set points is with the heel of the moving section on the peak of one of the four cam lobes and set the gap to 0.015" using the right feeler gauge .

Have you got the insulator seated correctly for the condenser lead and coil lead ? Is the coil connected +ve/sw to ignition and -ve/cb to the distributor ? Also check the ign. supply is live ....you did put the rotor arm on?  Easy to forget as most of us can testify I would imagine

cheers

 

Steve b

[2a-Egg]

5 minutes ago, steve b said:

The correct way to set points is with the heel of the moving section on the peak of one of the four cam lobes and set the gap to 0.015" using the right feeler gauge .

Have you got the insulator seated correctly for the condenser lead and coil lead ? Is the coil connected +ve/sw to ignition and -ve/cb to the distributor ? Also check the ign. supply is live ....you did put the rotor arm on?  Easy to forget as most of us can testify I would imagine

cheers

 

Steve b

Haha yeah all connected even the arm. What does the insulator look like / where does it sit? Is that the lead from dizzy to condenser?  It turns over. Just not getting spark. Had plug out to check and no spark. 

[2a-Egg]

30 minutes ago, neilc said:

What is it actually doing, clicking?  , trying to start ? , The fuses wont cause the problem , are leads on in correct order ? I imagine it's the condenser or points , use the old trick I use to set them with a piece of very thin paper , the points should barely touch , is there a vacuum advance , if so was it put back on ?

Turns over but no bang. 

[2a-Egg]

This is the new points and condenser in. Old arm when image taken. 

[steve b]

That all looks ok , later type so the insulator is between the spring and the base of the points . I'd try the old coil to start with

 

cheers

Steve b

[2a-Egg]

1 minute ago, steve b said:

That all looks ok , later type so the insulator is between the spring and the base of the points . I'd try the old coil to start with

 

cheers

Steve b

Have had both on. Unless the new one I've put the +- the wrong way round like a fool. Or the points are positioned wrong.. 

[jessejazza]

Earthing wire for the contact plate? I can't see one.

You haven't said if you used a test light. If no light then either timing is out or LT circuit is dead. I put the test light on the coil terminal rather than trying to fix the clip on the contact plate. New coil? - modern ones from China... quite often u/s - use meter to check should be 3 ohms on the terminals (non ballast ignition)... bet you've a dud. (I had one from Powerspark). Only worth buying the Lucas Gold sports coils - or take your meter with you when you go to the motor factor. I've had two on cars which have now done 25 years. If they are working fine don't bother changing for Chinese stuff.

I always check the dizzy before I put it back in the hole. King lead off. That is: set the points to 15 thou in a vice, rotor arm on and cap. Earth lead to body and attach test light. Then turn on ignition and turn cog, and the test light will light as it should do 4 times for a complete rotation. Then hopefully working fine before you put the dizzy in the engine... saves you taking it out again.

Test light not showing; assuming you've checked the coil, then you have a problem with the points or condensor. About 4 years ago i recall finding I had 4 dud sets of points. China quality once again and these were marked Lucas... that doesn't mean much nowadays. Condensors! Do a little soldering for 1-1.5 hours and make yourself up a TAC circuit. Components cost about £12-£15 + a box and seal box with waterproof spray. 20 years later like me you won't have any condensor problems. Some folk like to spend money on optronic and Hall Effect systems but once again... chinese quality. Nothing to beat points and TAC setup BECAUSE you can test each individual part of the circuit.

The TAC components used to be sold by Maplin (for about 30 years) but now someone else does them and I can't recall at present who. I'll make you up a set if you don't fancy soldering.

Just found the details - now Velleman (I think it always was but Maplin used to sell them and now one has to go direct to Velleman. Just popped out to take a pic of the one in my kit car (there's one in the Landy but that's round the front and it's raining!).

illustrated_assembly_manual_k2543.pdf

Edited December 22, 2019 by jessejazza

[jessejazza]

2 hours ago, 2a-Egg said:

Right so I have changed

Coil

Leads

Points

Condenser 

Plugs

 

And now no spark, so no brum brum... I've also now snapped a spark plug when undoing it. The car started absolutely fine before I changes the points and condenser. Also I replaced some switches on the dash before I did the condenser etc so could I of knocked a cable of blown a fuse. 

I don't mean this unkindly in any way but as you have written.... you thought it would be wise to renew these items in one go. BUT check and replace individually as you go - with the exceptions (if she was ok before); leads and plugs. Component quality is suspect these days.

My bets are on a dud coil or condensor.

[2a-Egg]

46 minutes ago, jessejazza said:

I don't mean this unkindly in any way but as you have written.... you thought it would be wise to renew these items in one go. BUT check and replace individually as you go - with the exceptions (if she was ok before); leads and plugs. Component quality is suspect these days.

My bets are on a dud coil or condensor

have changed leads and plugs a few months back then I did the coil, then the rotor arm and now the points and condenser. So not all at once, just listed out what has been changed. 

So I'm thinking the brit part condenser could be a culprit. Or it's going to be user error and I've done something simple wrong. 

 

New coil is lucas ( just read your first comment through) will have to check it all again tomorrow when it's not raining. Got rained off a few times today 

Edited December 22, 2019 by 2a-Egg

[jessejazza]

1 hour ago, 2a-Egg said:

have changed leads and plugs a few months back then I did the coil, then the rotor arm and now the points and condenser. So not all at once, just listed out what has been changed. 

So I'm thinking the brit part condenser could be a culprit. Or it's going to be user error and I've done something simple wrong. 

Sorry - it looked like you had done them all in one go. No offence meant - I've renewed too much in one go in the past. BritPart I believe has another name - chinese and not worth the bother. Also the condensor insulation breaks down with time so cannot be stored for too long.

Here's the link and I'd strongly recommend one of these. I've had two for 20 years without a problem (transferred between cars). £12.30 plus p&p is money well spent. If you have a local electronics shop you could get the parts for much less and make up your own PCB.

http://www.velleman.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d31_Automotive.html

Edited December 22, 2019 by jessejazza

[FridgeFreezer]

So it was working until you fitted the last bits?

[jessejazza]

7 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

So it was working until you fitted the last bits?

Most likely the condensor and maybe points assuming you have checked with a meter on the coil.

[2a-Egg]

35 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

So it was working until you fitted the last bits?

Correct. It's been running rough but started up. So I renewed the points and condenser, and now it just turns over and no spark. I need to properly look at it. Could be something I have done. That is the most likely cause.. Me haha

[Blanco]

Its been a while since I had the 2a but I did once put the condenser lead on top of the plastic spacer/washer, it doesn't work well that way! 

[2a-Egg]

6 minutes ago, Blanco said:

Its been a while since I had the 2a but I did once put the condenser lead on top of the plastic spacer/washer, it doesn't work well that way! 

Unsure I even saw a plastic spacer whe taking off/putting new on. It's a later dizzy I think as it just slides between a metal clasp not screw on to points

[David Sparkes]

Does this help?(IE I do not know if it shows your type of (later) distributor).

Courtesy of the Series 2 Club Technical Gallery.

Regards.

[Bowie69]

Also check the spring isn't contacting the baseplate, I have had some sets of points get bent/arrived pre-bent and was enough to short everything.... 

[2a-Egg]

1 hour ago, David Sparkes said:

Does this help?(IE I do not know if it shows your type of (later) distributor).

Courtesy of the Series 2 Club Technical Gallery.

Regards.

Mines later points. Not got the screw like this 

[2a-Egg]

Had the dash out this morning to check connection to ignition, all fine but noticed the fuel guage and wipers weren't getting power. So re seated fuses and they came back to life. But still don't seem to be getting a spark. Next is to put the old condenser back in as the one supplied is made by ****part. 

[lo-fi]

If that fails, it's back to basics... 

Check you got the coil polarity and connections correct. 

Test the coil resistances. Specs will be available in the book or from the manufacturer. 

Disconnect the coil from the dizzy, check that the contact breakers do indeed break and make connection as the dizzy is spun. Connect the meter from B- to the wire that usually goes to the coil and run it in continuity mode may be easiest understood. It should read a dead short when the points are closed and infinite once opened. Spin the engine over by hand for this test. 

Check continuity on the master connection on the cap. 

I'm sure it's something simple! 

 

[2a-Egg]

2 hours ago, lo-fi said:

If that fails, it's back to basics... 

Check you got the coil polarity and connections correct. 

Test the coil resistances. Specs will be available in the book or from the manufacturer. 

Disconnect the coil from the dizzy, check that the contact breakers do indeed break and make connection as the dizzy is spun. Connect the meter from B- to the wire that usually goes to the coil and run it in continuity mode may be easiest understood. It should read a dead short when the points are closed and infinite once opened. Spin the engine over by hand for this test. 

Check continuity on the master connection on the cap. 

I'm sure it's something simple! 

 

It started when it had the other points and condenser in, so it's there that it's gone wrong. Either new parts don't work or I've shorted it somehow. 

[2a-Egg]

Right so I've had a good few hours today on the truck. And I have sorted a few bits that were not working, and sorted the points issue. The issue was the points were slightly bent and touching the base of the dizzy so shorting it all out and.. 

[FridgeFreezer]

Glad you got it sorted!