Jump to content

Pegasus parts


Gazzar

Recommended Posts

I called them a few months back querying bulkhead parts and all seemed fine. Although interestingly, their partner site pegasus bulkheads now redirects to Terrain Tech... Hopefully it's just an IT issue as I really need to get around to ordering some parts from them! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

All is well, was clearly just an IT issue. I ordered some bulkhead parts a couple of weeks back, which arrived this morning. They were made to order, not stock items, so the lead time was expected. 

Nice bits of work:

15791684734701752249288.thumb.jpg.1a82f54f6319b547a2984afb30009de8.jpg

That'll get my second, more challenging bulkhead rebuild moving. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

The nuts are on floating plates, the plates held captive with another plate behind which sits between the nuts. 

1579169192288594804281.thumb.jpg.5adad462fd9d0fefab1ebd3dbbc3f64c.jpg

1579169230764-1102448818.thumb.jpg.7d4e62e3dafc983bee74edb8e97f4268.jpg

 

Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was quite cunning. I don't think they're stainless, but I have a deep dislike of stainless fasteners anyway. 

I'll be ordering more bits from Pegasus as I need them, for sure. The website is heinous to navigate, but they're helpful on the phone and I'm happy with the quality. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Snagger said:

Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.

Mild steel works better, stainless can do strange things when mixed with steel, and I think it's a bit softer, so can lose threads easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. When I hear people proudly proclaim that they've "replaced all the bolts with stainless", I tend to cringe. Stainless isn't corrosion proof, and once it does start to go, you'll have the devils own time getting stuff apart. It loves to gall, the cheap stuff is low strength and it's a swine to drill out as it loves to work harden for fun too. Great for "pretty" bolts if you must, but nooooo thanks otherwise! Stick to the correct spec of 1.5 threads protruding behind the nut (yes, I'm looking at YOU, land rover!!), assemble with grease and you'll never struggle with standard fasteners. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fair enough.  I was happy to use stainless fixings on my door hinges because they’re under light load, not heavily torqued up or carrying much weight.  The spire nuts were standard and coated heavily in copper grease, so won’t have problems, but I think applications like this are good for decent quality stainless nuts with greased threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having pulled my truck apart 3 times now in the last 10 years I've tried and seen the effects of various combinations and I've settled with generally - "quality" stainless fittings and top hat/nylon washers and various types of insulating gaskets as well as removing the body earths on the Aluminium stuff (namely rear tub) and wire them instead. There are places to use Stainless and there are places to use mild steel BZP. if you're savy you can have the best of all the worlds 😁

The only zinc plated fasteners I've found to be of any quality use where genuine Land Rover ones or any genuine car manufacturer for that point really.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/16/2020 at 10:26 AM, Snagger said:

Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.

Land Rover ditched the spire nuts and went back to the captive nut plates the same as that on the Defender bulkhead door hinge mounting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/18/2020 at 9:14 AM, oneandtwo said:

Land Rover ditched the spire nuts and went back to the captive nut plates the same as that on the Defender bulkhead door hinge mounting.

I had no idea of that.  The cage nuts work fine for assembly, but years of condensation after dry assembly means that the cage disintegrates when you try to undo the screws.  At least these sturdier captive nuts may survive the impact driver and let yo get the hinge off!  Why can’t manufacturers just apply a little grease to fasteners on assembly?  The cost would be tiny per vehicle, not even £5, but would save so much aggravation.  I know across a factory, £5 per unit adds up fast, but nobody would notice it added to the cost of their car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy