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Have Pegasus parts stopped trading?

I can't find their website, and I'd like to buy a starting dog crank bolt for a 2.5 petrol.

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I called them a few months back querying bulkhead parts and all seemed fine. Although interestingly, their partner site pegasus bulkheads now redirects to Terrain Tech... Hopefully it's just an IT issue as I really need to get around to ordering some parts from them! 

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Bit of chat on that subject on LRSOC earlier in the year, doesn't seem hopeful?

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I know Paul was having a rough period, but I was hoping he was through it.  I hope he's okay.

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I tried getting in touch with them at the start Iof the summer regarding a bulkhead top but didn't get very far. 

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If they are the same company as Pegasus Bulkheads, they have an ad in the recent CLR magazine.

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All is well, was clearly just an IT issue. I ordered some bulkhead parts a couple of weeks back, which arrived this morning. They were made to order, not stock items, so the lead time was expected. 

Nice bits of work:

15791684734701752249288.thumb.jpg.1a82f54f6319b547a2984afb30009de8.jpg

That'll get my second, more challenging bulkhead rebuild moving. 

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How are you supposed to adjust the door hinges if they weld in captive nuts?  They should have large plain holes for cage nuts, like the original bulkheads.

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The nuts are on floating plates, the plates held captive with another plate behind which sits between the nuts. 

1579169192288594804281.thumb.jpg.5adad462fd9d0fefab1ebd3dbbc3f64c.jpg

1579169230764-1102448818.thumb.jpg.7d4e62e3dafc983bee74edb8e97f4268.jpg

 

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Assuming they are made the correct size, they looks like very well made items indeed.

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17 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

The nuts are on floating plates, the plates held captive with another plate behind which sits between the nuts. 

1579169192288594804281.thumb.jpg.5adad462fd9d0fefab1ebd3dbbc3f64c.jpg

1579169230764-1102448818.thumb.jpg.7d4e62e3dafc983bee74edb8e97f4268.jpg

 

Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.

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I thought it was quite cunning. I don't think they're stainless, but I have a deep dislike of stainless fasteners anyway. 

I'll be ordering more bits from Pegasus as I need them, for sure. The website is heinous to navigate, but they're helpful on the phone and I'm happy with the quality. 

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2 hours ago, Snagger said:

Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.

Mild steel works better, stainless can do strange things when mixed with steel, and I think it's a bit softer, so can lose threads easier.

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Yep. When I hear people proudly proclaim that they've "replaced all the bolts with stainless", I tend to cringe. Stainless isn't corrosion proof, and once it does start to go, you'll have the devils own time getting stuff apart. It loves to gall, the cheap stuff is low strength and it's a swine to drill out as it loves to work harden for fun too. Great for "pretty" bolts if you must, but nooooo thanks otherwise! Stick to the correct spec of 1.5 threads protruding behind the nut (yes, I'm looking at YOU, land rover!!), assemble with grease and you'll never struggle with standard fasteners. 

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Fair enough.  I was happy to use stainless fixings on my door hinges because they’re under light load, not heavily torqued up or carrying much weight.  The spire nuts were standard and coated heavily in copper grease, so won’t have problems, but I think applications like this are good for decent quality stainless nuts with greased threads.

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Problems manifest even more when you mix stainless and aluminium....

Good BZP fasteners are designed for 25 years life, that should be enough for most people!

 

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They certainly do.  Worth using plastic washers where possible, and lots of grease where not.

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Having pulled my truck apart 3 times now in the last 10 years I've tried and seen the effects of various combinations and I've settled with generally - "quality" stainless fittings and top hat/nylon washers and various types of insulating gaskets as well as removing the body earths on the Aluminium stuff (namely rear tub) and wire them instead. There are places to use Stainless and there are places to use mild steel BZP. if you're savy you can have the best of all the worlds 😁

The only zinc plated fasteners I've found to be of any quality use where genuine Land Rover ones or any genuine car manufacturer for that point really.

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5 hours ago, Maverik said:

... removing the body earths on the Aluminium stuff (namely rear tub) and wire them instead...

Maverik, would you mind explaining this a bit further?

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On 1/16/2020 at 10:26 AM, Snagger said:

Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.

Land Rover ditched the spire nuts and went back to the captive nut plates the same as that on the Defender bulkhead door hinge mounting.

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On 1/18/2020 at 9:14 AM, oneandtwo said:

Land Rover ditched the spire nuts and went back to the captive nut plates the same as that on the Defender bulkhead door hinge mounting.

I had no idea of that.  The cage nuts work fine for assembly, but years of condensation after dry assembly means that the cage disintegrates when you try to undo the screws.  At least these sturdier captive nuts may survive the impact driver and let yo get the hinge off!  Why can’t manufacturers just apply a little grease to fasteners on assembly?  The cost would be tiny per vehicle, not even £5, but would save so much aggravation.  I know across a factory, £5 per unit adds up fast, but nobody would notice it added to the cost of their car.

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Unfortunately there is plenty of chatter on series2 relater fora about non delivery of bulkheads from Pegasus even though money was paid up front on order ing.

Do an internet search.

 

Peter

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That's disappointing... Especially given how much they charge! 

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