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Security suggestions for my Defender 90 2.5 TD?


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I fitted a NRG quick release steering wheel boss to my Ford Capri so the wheel itself can be easily removed from the vehicle. I had to buy it and get it sent over from the States and I’m not even sure if you could get one to match the Defender spline pattern but it’s on my list of things to do.

Pedal locks, handbrake locks, hidden fuel pump isolator switch etc are other relatively simple measures to think about or just blocking it in with other cars should deter all but the most determined of thieves.

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The X-Eng pedal lock is very good, it bolts to the floor and hinges up to cover all the pedals.

It’s pretty secure and would need some time with an angle grinder to get it off, plus you can’t get to the pedals to cut them like with other pedal locks.

Also fit some kind of immobiliser (don’t rely on the factory fitted one) and a tracking device, then if it does get stolen you at least have a chance of getting it back.

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Diskloks work well,  if you have a column with steering lock, the x-eng steering lock upgrade is worthwhile, a fuel cut off solenoid with hidden switch helps, and a well hidden tracker will give you something of a chance if it gets taken.  

The more layers the better.  Cordless grinders make cheap steering locks,  pedal boxes and chains pretty useless. 

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Totally echo what Eightpot says. Go for layers to slow any would be theif down and a sensible place to start is the x-eng steering lock Here

I think it is also good to have a mix of visable devices to act as a deterrent and then some hidden ones to slow them down. 

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4 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:

The X-Eng gear stick lock is a nice visible deterrent. 

Mo

Yes, I like that. It's nice and easy to use. There is no point in getting a device that is a fiddle to use so you end up not fitting it because that is when your pride and joy will get stolen

 

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+1 for the X-Eng gearstick lock, minimally obtrusive to use / carry but very effective in the way it works.

Can't say I've ever heard anything good about Disclok and that sort of thing, heard it said the crims can get them off faster without the key than you can with one, and it's a big lump of steel kicking round the cab waiting to lump you in the back of the head in an emergency stop!

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My first-level security is delegated to this guy:beast.jpg.aa61ab81129ab9c7290a9b3980925a2a.jpg

 

who knows how to open the back door if he hears a disturbance. He treats the back of my defender as his personal den-on-wheels and woe betide anyone who intrudes!

If he *really* triggers I've got a 20-inch Husqvarna chainsaw (which fires first-time-every-time I pull the starter-cord) in the back-porch and we'll happily nakedly chase thievy-types down the lane if need be.

 

There's also two levels of CCTV: the cameras-you-can-see are there to protect the cameras-you-can't-see.

 

Edited by Tanuki
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11 hours ago, Bigj66 said:

I fitted a NRG quick release steering wheel boss to my Ford Capri so the wheel itself can be easily removed from the vehicle. I had to buy it and get it sent over from the States and I’m not even sure if you could get one to match the Defender spline pattern but it’s on my list of things to do.

Optimil make a demountable steering wheel boss and a dome unit which fits in place so you can't attach mole grips to steer it. I bought one for mine not cheap but people waste more on bling.

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13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Can't say I've ever heard anything good about Disclok and that sort of thing, heard it said the crims can get them off faster without the key than you can with one, and it's a big lump of steel kicking round the cab waiting to lump you in the back of the head in an emergency stop!

Thought they were supposed to be pretty impregnable?  though the back can be peeled open with stilsons if you don't weld some strengthening plate round - they are a horrible big lump though, never fancied one. I use a Stoplock Pro which is supposed to be ok till they slice the steering wheel, but at least small & a doddle to use.

When I get round to it I'm going to modify a handbrake bracket and weld a shutter lock on so the lever can't be released, not infallible but adds enough time for me to pull on my strides and find a nice big stick.

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1 hour ago, orangebadger said:

Are there any guides as to how to install one of these and what one needs? Am no mechanic!

First lesson on day one of land rover theft school is how to bypass a hidden fuel pump switch- not much of a security feature to be honest.

A hidden in line fuel solenoid is better against opportunists but thieves bring lengths of fuel hose with them to get round stuff like that.

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.... But if its hidden well, its another layer to slow them down. If they want your LR they'll take it, but the idea here is to not make it easy for them. Another top tip that is free is to always park where possible in well lit public places, if cctv is around then all the better. 

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37 minutes ago, monkie said:

.... But if its hidden well, its another layer to slow them down

They won't even bother looking for it, takes less than 15 seconds to bypass it completely - though making a shield to cover the wires and solenoid on the pump would help against this

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You're right but this is the idea of the multiple layers. 15 seconds to bypass that, 30 seconds to remove this, 20 seconds to get past the next thing.... Sod it, just take the one with no security

 

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I am very fond of my X-Eng pedal box as it has saved my truck on the drive twice. Retired nosy neighbours are good too!

(First time broke the lock, so they couldn't release the box, neither could I without instruction! Second time, made so much noise that the neighbours called the police; police car came down the Close, two attempted thieves went over/through garden fence leaving blood and torn clothing. The police have retained the DNA, but no matches).

I have just added  a wireless HD video camera over the front drive to the mix. The LR110 has a fuel relay switch, a fused isolator and a tracker as well. Layers work but they have to be easy for you to use and actually deploy. There is no point in having some bolt on security item if it is a faff to use.

If someone is determined to steal your truck, it is gone; make sure your insurance company is reputable and likely to honour claims. If you have declared a security device, you must use it.

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Given how long I've seen a supposedly 'professional' auto-electrician take to track down this fault, a switch activating a remote relay that cripples the output from the crank-position-sensor would surely be a good way to go?

If the ECU doesn't acknowledge that the engine's actually rotating it will leave a drive-away thief dead-in-the-water.

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I think the OP is referring to the 19J engine? No sensors on this engine feeding a computer. The idea is still valid though for a relay knocking out one of the main feeds like the FIP solenoid or even the glow plugs. You would be woken up by the cranking of the engine at this time of year with no glow plugs!

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9 minutes ago, Tanuki said:

Given how long I've seen a supposedly 'professional' auto-electrician take to track down this fault, a switch activating a remote relay that cripples the output from the crank-position-sensor would surely be a good way to go?

If the ECU doesn't acknowledge that the engine's actually rotating it will leave a drive-away thief dead-in-the-water.

A switch that grounds one or both sides of the sensor would likely do it, if it's a standard VR sensor it's similar to a microphone pickup. Only problem is the ECU side is sensitive enough to start with a very weak signal.

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13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

A switch that grounds one or both sides of the sensor would likely do it, if it's a standard VR sensor it's similar to a microphone pickup. Only problem is the ECU side is sensitive enough to start with a very weak signal.

This is an 89 Def90 2.5TD. No ECU - its barely got a stereo!!

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