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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?

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I'm rebuilding the engine that's going in my lightweight.

Is it worth a separate thread in the series forum? I know it's a 110 engine, but the conversion would apply to the 2286 the 2.5 is based on.

And, it's going in a series 😁.



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Okay then.

The first thing it to get the engine on the stand.


Then remove the crank shaft nut and pulley.



That's the first time that puller worked!

Then remove the water pump and timing cover.


And then the timing chain is exposed.


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Off with his head!

Dreadful pun, I know.

Removing the rocker cover is really easy. And it's odd using metric spanners and kit, but I like it.


Then the first of the clamp bolts.


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This engine is funny, it's been stored for ages, and some bits of it are really clean and oily, others are showing surface corrosion.

It turns over really easily, though, so I am not worried there is something major wrong with it.

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The rocker gear is held by the head bolts, I think, I had to remove them to remove the gear anyways.

So I removed all the head bolts on the reverse order to the tighten sequence.




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Having a bench ready, covered in cardboard, I was able to dislodge the head and lift it onto the bench.

What do you think?

What is that crud!?

Is this carbon? Or is it new valve time? 



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The next task was the timing chains and sprockets.

This wasn't easy.

First, I measured the wear, it was 21mm, 26mm is replace, 15mm is new.


I'll replace.



Removed: tensioner and slipper pads.


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Good to see you're getting down-and-dirty into the block.

Do you know anyone who can acid-tank 'pickle' it? It's the best way to get rid of decades of sludge in the oilways and corrosion in the water-passages. A pickle will give you a block as near as clean as it was when it was manufactured.

Be aware though that a 'pickling' can erode the surfaces of the camshaft-bearings - so you would be well-advised to have then pulled and replaced.

Do all this properly and you'll have an engine that will be good for decades-to-come.

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The sprockets were tricky to remove. The cam sprocket was threaded to take bolts so, knowing the thrust plate is tough, I used them to jack the sprocket off.


The crank sprocket was tighter. In the end I warmed it with the torch (very gently, hot to the touch but not burning), and sprayed freeze spray on the crank to get it going.



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To remove the cam I had to loosen the grub screw hidden under the gasket at the oil filter.


This allows the distributor drive to be lifted out.


The cam then is lifted out the front of the engine.


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The cam journal looks fine at that end, but I'm worried that there is an underlying cause that I've not located, blocked oil gallery or bearing occluding the oil or something.

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