Gazzar Posted March 16, 2020 Author Share Posted March 16, 2020 Not yet. I checked as soon as I got back. After saying hello to the dogs, the wife and the student. In that order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) ABSOLUTILEEEE loving this thread! Just discovered this.... In a 109, can't quite believe there's another broadly on the same path as me?! I've an ACRed 17H running gas with a Wide-band gauge etc. I've Roland's Powerplus head. cam, SU carb set-up. I'll send you my pics of my trigger-wheel install. In my case, being a daily-driver, when the gas-cylinders empty, petrol is the luxurious fuel for 'get-me-home' use. I rarely use it. Hence, for my use, I've skipped liquid-injection, yet I'm set to control Lambda via a Stepper motor. Closed-loop, single-point gas-injection. For this I'm using an AEB Leonardo Lambda controller, via a NB Lambda. I'm going for Megajolt on ignition, but run a 123 dizzy now. The 123ignition gives me two curves, one each fuel, but is 2D, and gas evermore than the liquid, requires decent ignition. Standby, now I know you're on this, I'll give you what I have with my own project. Pix: You're looking at: 1) A BLOS ( the gas equiv. of an SU) this controlled by a Stepper in Closed-loop. 2) Innovate WB gauge My trigger-wheel next... In short we're doing the same thing biased to different fuels. As I said, love the thread... keep at it. Edited March 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Superb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 I've stayed away from gas, space in a lightweight is tight, and the car ferry/ Eurostar angle is a real concern. The throttle body had arrived. It looks good except the throttle position sensor plug points down, I'm a bit worried that the connector will co share space with the manifold adaptor. I think I'll make the isolation block quite thick, so that it will clear, but a right angle version of the connector would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Connector. Injector Vacuum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) You're clearly going to a heap of effort with this, I did wonder why you're not going 'gas' and 'have done'. Space on-board a LWT and the 'Chunnel' would be it. I'm still halfway to MJ, here's as far as I've got with Sensor mount. Mocked-up, ... all parts are from 'Triggerwheels'. I've still to tidy it up, and weld it all on, but you get the idea. That's the twin-V pulley, ERC5128 the 17H has several flavours of pulley. Not sure why you appear to have a single-V? I might stand accused of being the bodger amongst us. I was going to hang a TPS on the end of my SU's butterfly/throttle spindle, using a bit of tube to act as a UJ coupling. Edited March 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Looks good👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Thanks, but I'm not sure praise is due quite yet, it's still a 'kin mess! Here's the Otly solution. 2.25 3MB timing cover makes the job a little easier because it has some captive threads very conveniently placed, behold.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) Just so others know, round these parts getting the pulley-wheel turned to an clearance-fit cost me £45. Bracket: TW sell one which is handed the opposite orientation, which would be slightly better, but 'Bargain basement' as pictured works well enough... Edited March 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 You've seen the debate around my plan, trigger wheel on the flywheel. There's dozens of ways to skin this cat! I'd like to go double pulley. So I can run air con. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) Flywheel is likely the better way to go, tidier too. I only show my solution, I can't see how it'll matter too much either way. I'm aghast that there's a bloke out there with a 17H, come on, there aren't many anyway! Aaaannnnd... sh*t the bed, he's doing much as me? Edited March 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) They used to hand these out like 'Sweets to kids'. I've several 17H knocking about. I run PAS off mine. Air-con in my dreams! I recall a magazine feature where a Yank had a coiler aircon unit in a 109. I believe there''s a 3 x V pulley to run Aircon & PAS? Edited March 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 This build won't have PAS, no need. The next will as it has to be wife friendly. But that will have a 4.6, so should be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Anyway, build details. Distortion test with shells. Pass, though just on the upper bound of okay. Which is .004 to .006, I couldn't get a 0.007 gauge in the gap. Does this mean the shells are bigger than ideal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Then plastigauge test. Just under the upper bound of the limits. It's in spec. That all that counts, right? Most were tighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 I'll build the pistons tomorrow (day off) and aim to get the lot together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 T seals soaking. I need a steel drinks can. What a problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) I'm a big girl, hence PAS. Schnice stuff you've got there. I've never found a proper printed manual for 'bog-reading' the 5MB in 2.5, Haynes don't cover it very well, even in S3 2.25. I've downloaded PDF files of factory parts books etc, but there's nothing much that's 5MB specific. All the coiler manuals focus on deseasels. What's that 'booky' I see you referencing? Looks factory? Edited March 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Ninety/one ten workshop manual. Covers the two 2286s, the two 2495s and the V8. Plus various gearboxes etc The 2.5 petrol is only a few pages on the differences to the 2286. Mainly oil pump and timing chain. I should have a PDF somewhere, if you are interested, though I'm sure it's online if I don't have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Clearances will be fine. Otherwise looking good :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 Ah, you're looking at this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 Different cover. I'll graph a pic in a mo. The manual is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 The crank float picture has the bearing the wrong way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 It should be: With the slots towards the crank. The text is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 It took a standard and 0.025 bearing to get the end float right. Which is what came out of the engine originally. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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