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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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Unless you're fully confident, I'd have those T Seals out one more time. It'd be a whole lot of pain to have it wrong. Buy the blocks, stick 'em on eBay for £30, and after selling costs they'll stand you £15-20ish. But you'll know the job's right? I need a set soon, thus I'll take those off you for a start!

Edited by Landrover17H
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No, the seals I had in stock will be fine. 

They were new seals, just old stock, and they fitted tight enough.

Stupid system, though.

 

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I did, however, get the cam end float clearance to within spec.

I examined the cam sprocket and there were a few burrs on the key way channels. Thirty seconds with a diamond file and the clearance was slap bang in the centre.

IMG_20200321_194346.jpg

IMG_20200321_194334.jpg

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It'd take me 2-3 hours to make blocks, sounds like you're quicker than me.

For the benefit of others: ACR's cam requires a 3MB type 'Cam Timing sprocket' which isn't a problem for most. However, the 5MB has only one spline orientation. Finding a decent cam timing sprocket was a pig. Turns out, ACR had some reasonably priced 'new old' stock.

See differences in pix:

Cam wheel Sprocket Series 2.25 LR 29-08-15  01.jpg

Camshaft Chain Wheel ETC5551.png

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The 6 way sprocket was the problem, or the cam, with regards to getting the end float right. Removing the burrs on the keyways was necessary, but shouldn't have been.

 

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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Love the care going into this, well done!

 

2 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:

Yep, great thread 👍

Thanks, it's a good challenge to build my first engine.

Getting the thing running will be a much bigger challenge, I think.

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7 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Well, we will be here to help ;) 

I am very appreciative of that. I think I'd be still on clockwork engine management without the power of this forum. Thank you.

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Cam timing: I did mine must be 2-3 years back, and I can't remember the details. You'll find your nervousness unfounded. I do remember it coming easier than expected. I run a business so understand Roland's situation, if need be, book a 5 min chat with him, he's very good. I used two dial gauges.

As far as I can make out the only cam that 'actually' requires the multiple-spline is Roland's. The simplified single-spline is good for anything else.

Rant: Land rover owners are a broad-church. It seems to stem from the "Whatever you do, don't go anywhere." faction, yet there's so much falsehood spewed on various forums about modding this engine. Our ACR conversion /closed loop set-ups won't be for most, yet there's good reason to skim the head and shove the 5MB cam into every 3MB rebuild, as standard practice. A proven profile, the cam also sits in the 200Tdious. Economy and torque improvements, it was the 'last hurrah' for the design, and you've got the thing in bits anyway? Instead, you'll read endless 'carb / dizzy threads'? You could wonder how some remember to breathe?

Rest assured, done right, and it's clear that'll be what's happening here,  'For driving', yours is the way to go.

Edited by Landrover17H
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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:

Agreed. Some day I'll do a pure series. 

 

Or stick a Tesla engine in one.

 

 

I looked seriously at converting mine to electric but the cost of doing the job properly is unbelievably expensive for a hobby car but it would have been a great project to do.

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I'm going to wait until there's a good supply of crashed cars.

I've one or two other projects to do first:

 

 

And the house......

 

 

And the garden.....

 

 

And one or two dry stone walls.....

 

 

 

Would it be bad to buy a 101?

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Let my grumpy old git let forth... Methinks: Can't see the current fascination with converting a classic to electric, I mean... it'll never be cheap, and even if it were free? After the novelty wears off, what could I do with it anyway? 'Spose if we disengage brain, it sounds clever? Is it for the 'coffee and classics' crowd, whereby we wallet-wave, and delude all and sundry, catching the applause for being psuedo-green?

Coming from someone who's in the midst of project as involved as the OP's this comes a bit 'rich', but then I 'drive' mine. Way I see it,  therein sees the difference. I suspect this  project is going to be used too.

Edited by Landrover17H
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48 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:

Let my grumpy old git let forth... Methinks: Can't see the current fascination with converting a classic to electric, I mean... it'll never be cheap, and even if it were free? After the novelty wears off, what could I do with it anyway? 'Spose if we disengage brain, it sounds clever? Is it for the 'coffee and classics' crowd, whereby we wallet-wave, and delude all and sundry, catching the applause for being psuedo-green?

Well, currently EV conversions (or EVs at all) don't really stack up for daily use but a classic that only does a bit of bimbling around and is cheap, reliable, silent and powerful is quite attractive - electric motors are amazingly good as a power plant but just let down by current generation of batteries.

I'd EV swap my whole fleet in a heartbeat if batteries could match a tank of petrol for energy storage.

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EVs are:

Simpler. No gearbox, only a transfer box.

Quieter, I've sensitive hearing.

Cleaner, I've adult onset asthma.

Batteries are rubbish. If this is solved (hold more, fill faster, last longer, weigh less (X10)) then they are better than petrol.

Plus, with better solar electric is possible to be self reliant, to an extent.

 

Plus, it's my truck. I'll do what I want with it, so long as it's legal, not anyone elses business.

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