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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


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What is the bracket you've attached the CPS sensor bracket to?

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Bracket: The cheapo from 'Trigger Wheels', and a bit of scrap angle-iron. They do another 'hand' which in hindsight would be neater, but mine's heading to look rather more 'barnyard'. Thus by the time I've cut off all the superfluous mounting-material, and welded it all in, it'll be neater, but not super-neat. The pop-rivet is work-in-progress. If you're to filch my approach, and want it better, you require the pricier 'hand'.

 

If you're dressing to make it look more 'Series' - that timing cover, has 2 x captive threads sitting unused (unless you have a mech.winch.) Easier still. Let me know, I've pix around somewhere.

My pulley -  ERC5128. I run PAS. I've managed to find a Metric starter-dog, yet that was £65 alone. Trouble is, 'doing it all' soon mounts up. You think, "Ah well, it's only £60 quid." But so is everything else...

You did say... Flywheel mount has to be a better job. Me? I'll be happy to see it working. Mine's a 'daily' and never looks anything other than battle-worn. Never been washed etc.

 

Sensor Bracket.png

Timing ERC5128.jpeg

Edited by Landrover17H
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Sorry. Was referring to the bracket the trigger wheel bracket was attached to. It's it a PAS part?

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I've seen a lot, that included. Thanks. I think the flywheel will be the neatest, and most robust, if I can manage it!

The maths of the thing will be a good challenge for me.

 

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Front cover time. I was going to paint this today. I can't find the paint!

The seal replacement procedure requires seeking out rivets and the using self tappers. There's a mud shield between the seal and the pulley. This should be removed and the seal tapped in from the front.

I don't like this idea.

So I just pushed the seal in from the back.

Simples. If you have a seal shaped flat tool.

 

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I also found the skew gear retaining screw. So I should soon have two! Joy.

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I'm doing mine Blue so I'll be looking in. I reckon our 'Bearded-brethren' covered engine-paint not long back. Hang on...

Yep:

https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,2967.0.html

If they knew? You'd need to putting in a dynamo to keep some of them happy. Duck-egg on a 5MB? Oh dear, oh dear.

Edited by Landrover17H
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It's something I turned to fit the seal in the gearbox input pinion cover, the otherside has a ridge that fits in the seal groove, allowing the seal to be fitted without damage.

I painted a TDI 200 engine blue. So not bothered.  This engine is going in a 1972, ex army, so blue is appropriate, regardless of engine bearings.

 

IMG_20190629_150935.jpg

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This engine is going in a 1972, ex army, so blue is appropriate, regardless of engine bearings.

I stand corrected, still it makes me chuckle. I'm with you, leaks etc, can't hide. It's the pragmatic and practical colour. Not sure why it's not used more often.

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Perhaps not so useful for you, but seeing as I have the info, here's starter-dogs. With the breed-standard [Imperial] and what we want, the Metric version:

 

3MB Starter dog 503665 Imperial  is 1-5/8" AF - or “as near as makes no difference" 41mm

5MB Starter dog ERC4672  Metric is 42mm or “as near as makes no difference" 1”W Whitworth / 1-1/8 BSF

Starter Dog Differences ERC4672 03.jpg

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I was actually thinking of this earlier.

I've just gone with the original, for now, but I'm tempted to fit a capstan winch, which will need engineering to the crank pulley bolt.

I will revisit this, and your post is very helpful indeed. Though I could just slice off the dog from an imperial bolt and weld it to the metric one......

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Metric dog is best part of £100 anywhere I look. I paid £60 odd for mine, and that was a while back. As we said. if you're lucky, you've an Imperial thread. Worst is, I had a helluva job. I was ordering the Metric,  sent Imperial anyway! Twice! Hence the drawing above.

Edited by Landrover17H
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Does it start on the dog? My 2286 did, warm, but that was clockwork....

 

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The way I see it, all cars should have a starting-handle, worth doing for the 'comedy'  alone. I'm of an age where I'd never tried such things. Recall my mother swinging the Moggy Minor back in the day. Mine starts, and pretty easily. Mind, I'd rather not make it the norm. There's a reason these come with a starter... 

Maybe 'teaching granny', be sure to keep your thumb out of the way. There's Youtube videos on the correct technique.

I've got a parasitic-drain on the battery somewhere, and it's nice to have the handle as back-up. For best effect, you want to enter into the spirit of it all: If someone doesn't take the pistols, you're not doing it right. In your best Clint Eastwood, the trick is to stroll to it 'dead-pan', when this fails miserably, descend to Laurel & Hardy.

 

Edited by Landrover17H
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3 hours ago, Landrover17H said:

The way I see it, all cars should have a starting-handle, worth doing for the 'comedy'  alone.

 

Try hand starting a diesel...  you’d need a much bigger handle for two people, and even then I doubt you’d get the pressure up for the fuel injection to work.

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You'd need a compression reduction device to do that. Something that opens the valves.

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I wonder with compression relief whether you could hand crank fast enough to get the injection pump to work and the injectors got spray well enough for ignition, and if so, whether you d have enough compression to trigger that ignition.  I imagine any diesel that can be hand started is very small.

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Yes, it's a big ask. Some larger diesels used have a petrol engine to start them. 

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