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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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3 hours ago, Landrover17H said:

200Tdi etc excepted, and those already deaf, it's £60 well spent. My starter-dog is the funniest toy I've unloaded on a leafer. Done right, ie bring attention to it first, and you own the joke. Comes in handy too.

Oh, I agree.  It’s a great backup on the petrol models, and I made sure to find a replacement for the missing handle for my wife’s lightweight as soon as I bought it.  It’s not that hard for a modestly fit person to do.

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14 hours ago, Snagger said:

I wonder with compression relief whether you could hand crank fast enough to get the injection pump to work and the injectors got spray well enough for ignition, and if so, whether you d have enough compression to trigger that ignition.  I imagine any diesel that can be hand started is very small.

A mate has a large diesel stationary engine you hand crank to start.  You use a decompressor, wind up the heavy flywheel till there's some impetus in the system, then flick the decompressor off and BANG, she's running!  It works well but you'd struggle to fit a big enough flywheel to your Land Rover...

Another mate has a single cylinder diesel bulldozer.  You start that one with an explosive charge.  He only has a handful of those left.  Hmm.

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42 minutes ago, deep said:

A mate has a large diesel stationary engine you hand crank to start.  You use a decompressor, wind up the heavy flywheel till there's some impetus in the system, then flick the decompressor off and BANG, she's running!  It works well but you'd struggle to fit a big enough flywheel to your Land Rover...

Another mate has a single cylinder diesel bulldozer.  You start that one with an explosive charge.  He only has a handful of those left.  Hmm.

A lot of the 50s RAF jets were started with explosive cartridges.  It looks all sorts of wrong!

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10 hours ago, deep said:

A mate has a large diesel stationary engine you hand crank to start.  You use a decompressor, wind up the heavy flywheel till there's some impetus in the system, then flick the decompressor off and BANG, she's running!  It works well but you'd struggle to fit a big enough flywheel to your Land Rover...

Back in my youth I had to run a concrete (cement) mixer on a building site. It was so big that at the end of the projects it would be lifted onto a truck using chains off the front of the JCB. I can't remember the fuel type but it had the decompression lever, so probably diesel. Just as you say, you set the lever, started turning the handle, got the thing spinning and then somehow kept it turning with one arm whilst reaching to flick the lever back to let it compress, with both hands back on the handle to spin it a little further and then bingo. Usually!

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Twenty five years ago, I was renting a little aircraft in western France (a Jodel D112) that has no starter - it uses a VW beetle engine stripped down for weight.  Starting was done by hand swinging the prop, just like you see with WWI vintage aircraft.  It was a bit awkward to do alone - it had no parking brake.  I’d have to check the wheel chocks, set the engine controls and ignition, swing the prop to start the engine, then remove the chocks from the wheels by getting between the running prop and the front of the wing, then run around the back of the wing to get in before it wandered off...  I didn’t really enjoy that machine. 🤬

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3 hours ago, Peaklander said:

Back in my youth I had to run a concrete (cement) mixer on a building site. It was so big that at the end of the projects it would be lifted onto a truck using chains off the front of the JCB. I can't remember the fuel type but it had the decompression lever, so probably diesel. Just as you say, you set the lever, started turning the handle, got the thing spinning and then somehow kept it turning with one arm whilst reaching to flick the lever back to let it compress, with both hands back on the handle to spin it a little further and then bingo. Usually!

It wasn't for Doug Miles by any chance was it? 

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Bought this decades ago for tiny money, and put it away.

Unleaded head, allegedly stage 2 ACR ( the numbers match what Roland was expecting. So, who knows?).

I had a 2286 previously, really quiet, but not enough power for the loads I sometimes have on the trailer (3.5 tonne, officer).

I don't like carbs. Nor dizzys.

We'll see. If it doesn't run the way I want it to, I'll put in a TDI.

 

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Nah, you have it right. 200Tdi,?? Dear god, no. Don't do that - sperm of the devil things. I made a fatal error and forgot to be minded for who were making the numerous recommendations. And why they like the idea. Bit like taking restaurant recommendations; "If it's them that like it", for chrissakes, don't go. I had one, and got rid. As with V8s, seems others are doing the same.

Noise beyond belief,. I know, I know.... they go well and they're pretty frugal, and fairly easy/cheap to put in. Yet that noise? Suitable for a weekend-toy  if that's your thing, but there's no joy  in going anywhere far, or often. Quiet is my 'thing'., I've spent years  deadening racket  in mine. The other conversions on paper appear better, however... and  take this as words of encouragement;  day-to-day, an ACR kitted 2.5 is the kiddy. The only thing I'd do different is 'gas' it (Lambda'ed), but what you're doing has to make a leap. These days looking very rare, I strongly suggest you puff your chest - you're extremely lucky to have it.

Edited by Landrover17H
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The daily series truck is a TDI. I like the torque. I like the power; it's not a shock compared to the eurobox, which has 340 metric torques.

The noise is bearable; conversations require a raised voice at 50, but I've a reasonable about of sound proofing. It's no louder than the 2286 at speed, though a lot louder at idle.

I don't like the emissions. If I can get the petrol to be clean and otherwise matching the TDI, then I'll be very happy.

 

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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:

The noise is bearable; conversations require a raised voice at 50, but I've a reasonable about of sound proofing. It's no louder than the 2286 at speed, though a lot louder at idle.

A lot of the noise in a Series is the transmission, a bit of soundproof foam round/under the tunnel and seatbox makes a huge difference.

The ambulance got a bit loud (and hot) when we fitted the overdrive but less than 2sqm of 20mm foil-backed foam under the tunnel/seatbox and you can have a civilised conversation at 80mph. The V8 helps with that ;)

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One in our fold makes the claim "Probably the quietest series in the world..... Honest.." I have to say - until I read that - I was set for such claims. Reckon this would be a fresh thread. When I've a mo' I'll kick-off with what I've done -  took rather more than a little bit of Wright-Off-Road matting.

Edited by Landrover17H
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15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

A lot of the noise in a Series is the transmission, a bit of soundproof foam round/under the tunnel and seatbox makes a huge difference.

The ambulance got a bit loud (and hot) when we fitted the overdrive but less than 2sqm of 20mm foil-backed foam under the tunnel/seatbox and you can have a civilised conversation at 80mph. The V8 helps with that ;)

And an autobox will help even more 😉

Anyway back OT, Gazzar did you figure out a way to use the flywheel for the trigger wheel?

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Have you a picture of the engine side of the flywheel? I was chatting to a mate the other day about it and he said what about drilling the back face of the flywheel? Obviously would need to be done in such a way that it can be kept balanced. But it shouldn’t need much depth for the sensor to see it?

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Yes, I'm thinking of tapping through the clutch attachment holes, and using a shallow counter sunk screw to attach a 5mm think trigger wheel, centred on an existing flange on the flywheel, from the otherside. Loctite will feature.

The sensor can sit on a hole in the flywheel housing, anchored using the hole that's where the timing window was for a 2286 diesel.

 

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Once I've the engine sealed up, I'll build a stand so I can play with the back of it.

I'll do some WAD and see the clearance. A 6mm thick plywood trigger wheel should test my plan, and allow me to drill the hole for the sensor accurately.

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On 3/21/2020 at 10:41 AM, Landrover17H said:

Unless you're fully confident, I'd have those T Seals out one more time. It'd be a whole lot of pain to have it wrong. Buy the blocks, stick 'em on eBay for £30, and after selling costs they'll stand you £15-20ish. But you'll know the job's right? I need a set soon, thus I'll take those off you for a start!

I blame you.

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It has had new rings, shell bearings and oils seals fitted as part of a rebuild, The valves have just been lapped and new valve seals fitted, it is correctly timed and you won’t even need to redo the tappets! However I will confess that somehow the rear main oils seal was either fitted wrong or possibly the “T” seals didn’t go in correctly, it therefore is leaking from the back end so this needs fixing. I couldn’t face opening it up again so cheated and popped another engine in to save time!

Woe is me...

Sorry. In avoidance of doubt/crying in your beer, seems you've done it all the same. Doesn't that feel better? See Item number 30358341649. As is my wont, flicking thru' eBay,  just read the above - was going to send the link here. 

Suggest: Stick those blocks on eBay or for a consideration, shove 'em my direction.

 
Edited by Landrover17H
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