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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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No one.

You just assumed.

I've decided not to worry about the zinc paint. Apparently most modern oils don't have zinc, as it messes up the catalyst. I'm not fitting a cat to this Landrover, for the use it will get, I see no point.

Zinc is helpful to running in an engine.

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Next up will be finishing the top. Then the distributer/cam position sensor planning. 

I also need to think about a stand so I can fit the flywheel, is it necessary?

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If I read it right, and I'm sure you're more aware than me, but yours might well be a first? An MJ'ed 2.25 has been done a few times, and searching shows up a few 'projects', yet I  don't think a full EFI 2.25/2.5 has ever been done. There's V8s to the point of boredom, but no 'In the flesh and running' EFI 2.25/2.5.

Edited by Landrover17H
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Don't know. I expect it has been started, with throttles/ injectors out of 90s eurobox etc.

I'm trying to plan the next stage, and mesh that planning with the lightweight build.

I think I'll build up the tanks, bulkhead, loom etc, with no paint prep. Get the engine running, then strip back and do the pretty stuff afterward.

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I'm thinking of getting something like this as a intermediate tank to feed the injector.

Screenshot_2020-06-09-09-26-50-843_com_ebay.mobile.thumb.jpg.45976719310c953988121a925f9357bb.jpg

Mounted on the pass side of the bulkhead in place of the tool box.

Fed by the lift pump, returning to the tanks.

 

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I have tell of a supercharged 2.25 as far back as 1973, I have the list as:

1) Not less than four MJed 2.25s (I think Roland at ACR did kick-off).

2) One turbo project sits on Youtube.

3) Two with steam-engines for comedy-effect.

4) One natural-gas 2.5.

5) Heaps of LPG conversions, sadly these are on the wane.

And you with full EFI. Reckoning on you as a first.

 

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Surge tank ordered, and the main loom.

Update:

Loom could be ten weeks!!!!!!

 

Plenty of time to get a starter and alternator, and figure out the split charge systems.

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I've one or two more jobs to do on this before I start on the trigger wheel.

Paint will feature.

But first an experiment. 

With acid.

I'm putting the cast steel coolant system from a series into this engine, and eBay delivered some candidates.

Which were a bit rusty, so time to try citric acid. I'm looking for something to clear out the water galleries in the block, but am reluctant to just lob some untested stuff straight in.

IMG_20200612_173547.thumb.jpg.30d3de7e6285f19e96b2353d581c454c.jpg

IMG_20200612_173554.thumb.jpg.3418a129500912704063f7ad728fae2d.jpg

 

IMG_20200612_173749.thumb.jpg.d2290601e75131e04bd99e6bb10f82eb.jpg

 

 

I'll check the progress in the morning, if all I've left is rusty sludge, them I may have the concentration wrong.

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I've changed my mind on the rocker cover, the series one is too nice to paint, and, as I've also found the 90 breather, I'll fit the 90 rocker as well, happy to spray that mod blue.

There's another benefit, the valve clearances on the ACR camshaft are smaller than standard, thus the little label screwed to the rocker cover has the wrong information on it.

IMG_20200612_185713.thumb.jpg.5b2e29d839328031ab62e716a9ec9fd7.jpg

I've a few other bits to paint.

IMG_20200612_185653.thumb.jpg.176806e8e62343c57c79abec78c8a1a9.jpg

 

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Chemistry, magic to me, to be honest. Gave up when it got to ionic bonds, beyond me.

The citric stuff is fairly safe, so I think I can't mess it up, but if the rust doesn't shift I'll check out the oxalic acid. Or boil the citric acid.

 

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Change of subject.

Can I use the standard coolant temperature sensor for  megasquirt? Will it interfere with the normal gauge and vice versa? I ask, because now is the time to drill and tap for new sensors.

Thanks.

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Use a separate one, a Rover V8 wouldn't sensor wouldn't be bad, as we all know the configuration for it...

A gauge sender and ECU sensor are two different things, the ECU sensor will normally have two wires going to it so you get a decent reference voltage.

 

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I'll have to tap into something to get a reading. Maybe the heater take off?

Thanks, I'll order one up today.

Are there any other block sensors or similar that it would be smart to look at now? Cam and crank I think I have a solution for. 

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29 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

I'll have to tap into something to get a reading. Maybe the heater take off?

Thanks, I'll order one up today.

Are there any other block sensors or similar that it would be smart to look at now? Cam and crank I think I have a solution for. 

Not sure if you’ll need it with your kit but the only other one that springs to mind is possibly an air temperature sensor.

And a MAP sensor...?

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The map sensor, I think that could go on one of the untapped bosses on the manifold.

Could the air temp sensor go on the series swan neck?

 

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5 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

The map sensor, I think that could go on one of the untapped bosses on the manifold.

Could the air temp sensor go on the series swan neck?

 

The last one I fitted went on the inlet manifold but that was for a Cosworth engine in my Capri and there was already a tapped port for it. I believe as close to the inlet as possible would be preferable. Remind me what ECU you will be using to run the engine, is it MS?

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Micro squirt, probably. I looked at the speedaudrino but an ECU engineer I know looked at one, he had concerns about its robustness.

Plus, I know a megasquirt expert visits here on occasion.....

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Fitting it will be fun.

There's a number of options.

I like directly on the head, where the 2a sensor was.

IMG_20200613_102019.thumb.jpg.eb6d1cc783054f6a673e907f21d2acac.jpg

 

Here is easily a accessable:

IMG_20200613_102103.thumb.jpg.8b2f47ce19fdbcae8b83af6d3c83dea5.jpg

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