Landrover17H Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) Don't know about requirements for EFI, for the stock carb set-up, LR put in a kinda' surge tank. Likely useless info for Gazzer, but for others.... Stops fuel vapourisation. Something an S3 certainly suffers on hot days, or in hotter climes. LR's solution... NRC9772 Swirl Pot . Variously known as a Vapour Vessel Separator. Lives on bulkhead centre-line (see below) Edited June 16, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 On 6/13/2020 at 10:57 AM, Landrover17H said: However to do this you're best with this casting, all have the outlet marked [Red square]. Some don't have the rearmost, and plumb as a Series which is more awkward. For those of us running the ACR manifold, this is all the more useful. The ACR casting is water-heated, this outlet is also good for running gas, thus plumbing-in your reducer or vapouriser. If you lack the rearmsot outlet, you'll cope but be aware a better way exists. And no, a random piccy from a eBay listing, I never did figure out what that heater-mod was... Just a point to note. The thermostat cover in the is picture is a 200tdi. If you acquire the Discovery one it is often fitted with the two water temperature senders for the aircon. These are the same thread as a standard Eurobox temp sender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) Do you have a piccy? Not seen one. Might be a good place to put the sensor-stat + relay for those running electric Kenlowe/Pacet type fans? I've cobbled in one of these, and it's a bit of lash-up... Edited June 16, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) Well, I though that would be easy - starting to think it's not for the Air con - but lord knows what it's for https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.land-rover-blog.co.uk%2Fhow-to-replace-a-land-rover-discovery-thermostat%2F&psig=AOvVaw23_P0HwLBPdg8e_bez9ynQ&ust=1592388286269000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCMj7yuWKhuoCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE Third picture down Edited June 16, 2020 by Nonimouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ahh - it's for an electric fan switch PRC3359P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Rare as rocking horse poo, mind. - I've only ever had one engine with one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 52 minutes ago, Nonimouse said: Rare as rocking horse poo, mind. - I've only ever had one engine with one I seem to remember Mo saying that the extra position temp switch was to turn off the aircon pump if the coolant got too hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 On 6/15/2020 at 11:38 AM, Gazzar said: I presume genuine Bosch is the only way on this, or are there other Bosch shaped pumps that will stick decades of neglect and strange petrol? Maybe not the only way, Walbro are what a lot of folks use, Walbro 255 seems to be the "go-to" pump. FSI (Fuel Systems International I think) seem like a decent place, or any of the various motorsport suppliers. I'd be quite wary of the many many Bosch knock-offs on eBay etc. @Landrover17H the alloy tank Gazzar has does the job of the surge/swirl pot. The low-pressure lift pump fills it, the overspill (and any vapour) returns to the tank out of the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: I seem to remember Mo saying that the extra position temp switch was to turn off the aircon pump if the coolant got too hot? The part number refers to a fan switch sender unit. Which is what I used the one on my 100" for. Although I used an Xeng two stage sender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: Maybe not the only way, Walbro are what a lot of folks use, Walbro 255 seems to be the "go-to" pump. FSI (Fuel Systems International I think) seem like a decent place, or any of the various motorsport suppliers. I'd be quite wary of the many many Bosch knock-offs on eBay etc. @Landrover17H the alloy tank Gazzar has does the job of the surge/swirl pot. The low-pressure lift pump fills it, the overspill (and any vapour) returns to the tank out of the top. Will the walbro fit into a Bosch shaped aperture? I was going to buy from demon tweaks, very concerned about counterfeit goods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 3 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Will the walbro fit into a Bosch shaped aperture? I was going to buy from demon tweaks, very concerned about counterfeit goods. Not a scoobies, I believe FSI/Sytec have compatibility charts on their site, the Bosch style has definitely been copied by more than a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dra890 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 16 hours ago, Gazzar said: More pottering, I'm waiting for the block cleaner to work. Manifold had been matched to the adapter. And my die grinder died. How smooth does this have to be? Does the rough surface encourage atomisation? By any chance ? I don't think the roughness will help you with atomisation too much, what with fuel injection and the manifold hotspot. What I would do is to put a smooth radius on the bottom of that hole, blending it into the rest of the manifold to help the mixture turn that corner. It reportedly makes a big difference to flow. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Nonimouse said: Just a point to note. The thermostat cover in the is picture is a 200tdi. If you acquire the Discovery one it is often fitted with the two water temperature senders for the aircon. These are the same thread as a standard Eurobox temp sender I've a couple of disco type, but I'll be using the series type top and the 17H bypass. Which reminds me, I've to get a stat and O ring.... For a series engine is it a shrouded or unshrouded stat? Is it the bypass that matters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 56 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Not a scoobies, I believe FSI/Sytec have compatibility charts on their site, the Bosch style has definitely been copied by more than a few. Thanks. I'll have a scout about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, dra890 said: I don't think the roughness will help you with atomisation too much, what with fuel injection and the manifold hotspot. What I would do is to put a smooth radius on the bottom of that hole, blending it into the rest of the manifold to help the mixture turn that corner. It reportedly makes a big difference to flow. Dan Yes, I think you're right. Those corners have to be radiused out. I was doing this, but the die grinder stone fell off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Get a carbide burr..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: Get a carbide burr..... Are they any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ooooh yes..... Will take that down in about 10 mins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Next time, I'll buy a set. How does one balance a fan? Is it just a case of balancing it on an edge in a couple of orientations, and drilling the heavy side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 On 6/16/2020 at 3:07 PM, landroversforever said: I seem to remember Mo saying that the extra position temp switch was to turn off the aircon pump if the coolant got too hot? The elbow should have two switches, the lower trigger activates the electric auxiliary cooling fans in front of the condenser, while the higher triggered switch disconnects the ac compressor and shuts down the ac system to protect the engine. It’s the same on the 300, the switches being in the 180 degree elbow between thermostat housing and top hose, most just having blind dimples in the casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 You can easily drill and tap the regular ones if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 I've just had a long chat with Nige, the resident V8 megasquirt professional. He's putting together a shopping list. He had a couple of observations on lambda sensors and cam position sensors, and questioned their need. He was unable to offer any help on SPI so that's something I'll have to explore on my own ( help??). His suggestion was that MS1 is sufficient and robust enough for my needs, which is interesting. I'll see what he comes up with. I'll need an EDIS 4, with loom, so I think I'll need to find a traditional scrap yard, as all the EDIS modules I see on eBay don't have the loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 MS1 certainly will be sufficient. Not sure what the observation on lambda sensors was but you don't need a cam sensor, only a crank position one. SPI is just what it says - single point injection rather than multi-point / port, no real difference as far as MS cares it just fires injector(s). What's your question/concern over SPI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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