Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 List (from Nige) Wiring loom kit CTS sensor MAT Sensor Coil pack bracket G1 coil Manifold sensor steel weld on boss ( for MAT to swan neck) Ford coil pack power plug kit 4 cyl DIY ignition leads kit with all ends etc MS ECU loaded 029Y programmed for V8 / EDIS EDIS 4 and pigtail. He thinks the vacuum take off will do for the MAP sensor, which is in the MS1 module. Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 The studs for the throttle body are too long. The threads are too short. I think I may have not bought wisely. Still, I have a cheap tap and die set. Very cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Using the vacuum for the MAP sensor means I can use the other aperature on the manifold for crank case ventilation, and a TDI vacuum pump on the distributer skew gear for servos. With the crank trigger wheel there is no need for the cam position sensor. According to Nige. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 I would seriously consider an electric vac pump rather than put anything else TDI near this wonderful petrol build 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 It blocks the distributer hole beautifully. I will consider your viewpoint. I think fitting the pump is unlikely to turm it into a rather rough DI, but, if it does, I'll go the Hella electric pump instead. Regardless, more "fabrication", though that may be over selling my skills. Shortened studs. Trial fit, for giggles. TPS cable issue sizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 The insulator block went well, until a corner chipped of. So I did two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 And I've started the large end of the blends on the block, I'm awaiting the smaller hole saw to do the narrower end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 The TPS cable plug will just fit. But I'd be happier with a more gentle path, so will probably relieve the alloy block a bit. The cable doesn't clip on with the throttle body in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 The overall look of the assembly is the aesthetic I'm going for. If this works, I'm happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Oh, and my new fan DOES fit the water pump. I thought it would. But it's nice to see it happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Looking good👍 Can you slacken off the TPS screws to fit the cable plug and then nip them up afterwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 23 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: Looking good👍 Can you slacken off the TPS screws to fit the cable plug and then nip them up afterwards? Yes! Nice idea. Like it. I think that, and some gentle scalloping of the alloy, will get me there. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Or you could flip the TPS 180 degrees? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Yes, that's plan B. I'd have to cut a lug off the throttle body. Which I'd rather not do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 6 hours ago, Gazzar said: Yes, that's plan B. I'd have to cut a lug off the throttle body. Which I'd rather not do. Take about 20secs with a carbide burr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Yes. Okay. True. But non reversible on a part that's not been tested and might have to go back..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Whereas the alloy cost less than a tenner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 I think I don't need the vac pump. Do I have this right? Crank case breather, on the rocker cover, to the existing boss on the swan neck. Vacuum hose to servo, on the existing boss on the manifold Vacuum hose, on throttle body, to MAP sensor on MS1. MAT sensor, on new boss welded to the swan neck. That should do the job, shouldn't it? Can I just cap the dizzy aperature? Or does the oil pump need something in the top of the skew gear in order to stop the gear from clattering on the cam shaft? The dizzy is clamped in place, which must have an effect on the skew gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 If I understand that you mean that you’re not fitting a distributor, even as a dummy, because MS makes it redundant, then you could consider the following. Instead of having the vacuum from the induction system, so any variations in servo suction potentially affect the fueling and also introducing a point that can leak and cause lean running, why not fit a 12j-200Tdi vacuum pump? That’ll deal with you skew gear concerns (I don’t think that’s a problem), will close the aperture and give an independent vacuum source that always ensures servo suction without any possibility of affecting engine operation. The vacuum port on the manifold or below the throttle body can then be capped off. It wouldn’t look much like a distributor, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 14 hours ago, Bowie69 said: I would seriously consider an electric vac pump rather than put anything else TDI near this wonderful petrol build Bowie 69 may be upset..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 16 hours ago, Gazzar said: Using the vacuum for the MAP sensor means I can use the other aperature on the manifold for crank case ventilation, and a TDI vacuum pump on the distributer skew gear for servos. But the thought had occurred..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 33 minutes ago, Snagger said: If I understand that you mean that you’re not fitting a distributor, even as a dummy, because MS makes it redundant, then you could consider the following. Instead of having the vacuum from the induction system, so any variations in servo suction potentially affect the fueling and also introducing a point that can leak and cause lean running, why not fit a 12j-200Tdi vacuum pump? That’ll deal with you skew gear concerns (I don’t think that’s a problem), will close the aperture and give an independent vacuum source that always ensures servo suction without any possibility of affecting engine operation. The vacuum port on the manifold or below the throttle body can then be capped off. It wouldn’t look much like a distributor, though. There's literally no reason other than a leaky servo hose or servo that will affect the running of the engine, and the risk of that is not any more than a breather or vacuum line connected to the inlet. From a purely functional perspective, why no just use the inlet manifold as the vacuum source? It is there, no additional mechanical components required, quieter, less oil-leaky.... If you want a pure vacuum port for the ECU, you can buy screw in barbs for pennies, and while you work on the inlet, it will take about 5 min to put one in Same for engine breather, if you want a separate one, fit one, all sorts of things available on ebay and the like. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 You can’t get much simpler than those rotary vacuum pumps, and they’re easy to come by, having been used on 12, 14, 15 and 19Js in addition to 200s. And it saves making a blanking plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 1 minute ago, Bowie69 said: There's literally no reason other than a leaky servo hose or servo that will affect the running of the engine, and the risk of that is not any more than a breather or vacuum line connected to the inlet. From a purely functional perspective, why no just use the inlet manifold as the vacuum source? It is there, no additional mechanical components required, quieter, less oil-leaky.... If you want a pure vacuum port for the ECU, you can buy screw in barbs for pennies, and while you work on the inlet, it will take about 5 min to put one in Same for engine breather, if you want a separate one, fit one, all sorts of things available on ebay and the like. Because it’s a vulnerability you don’t need. If the hose or the servo start leaking, it causes merry hell. I think that was the cause of all the problems with my lightweight, and it foxed the next two owners too. You need something to cover the big hole in the block anyway, so u less you want a dummy distributor for cosmetics, those seems a simple and useful solution that avoids the leak issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 I'm inclined to agree with Bowie, but for a few reasons. I think the vac pump discharges into the crank case, which would be a concern, but more concerning would be installation; I'd have to remove the skew gear and probably the oil pump in order to fit, once I'd obtained a pump in the first place! A simple plate over the hole wouldn't take long to make, paint and seal. Does the distributer perform any role in oil control? Or is the oil pressure retained in the oil galleries purely by the skew gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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