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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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22 hours ago, Snagger said:

The elbow should have two switches, the lower trigger activates the electric auxiliary cooling fans in front of the condenser, while the higher triggered switch disconnects the ac compressor and shuts down the ac system to protect the engine.  It’s the same on the 300, the switches being in the 180 degree elbow between thermostat housing and top hose, most just having blind dimples in the casting.

Can you find a part number? I can't

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23 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:

Can you find a part number? I can't

For? The elbow? Or the switch?

Here's from  the 2495 petrol parts book, same part for TDI, I think, based on a part number search on eBay.

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Screenshot_2020-06-18-12-32-42-171_com.microsoft.skydrive.jpg

Screenshot_2020-06-18-12-34-43-500_com.ebay.mobile.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:

I was asking about the 200Tdi twin port thermostat cover...

It seems to be specific to a certain type of 200tdi with Aircon.

I have an idea.... 

Same part numbers?

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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:

I'm inclined to agree with Bowie, but for a few reasons.

I think the vac pump discharges into the crank case, which would be a concern, but more concerning would be installation; I'd have to remove the skew gear and probably the oil pump in order to fit, once I'd obtained a pump in the first place!

A simple plate over the hole wouldn't take long to make, paint and seal. 

Does the distributer perform any role in oil control? Or is the oil pressure retained in the oil galleries purely by the skew gear?

 

 

I may be wrong on having to remove the skew gear. The parts book shows a drive dog. I'll just blank it for now. Or fit a flashing LED spinner thing, pretend it was a secret device to confound Soviet observers.

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11 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Parts manuals are very useful. Especially if you have them on the phone....

Have you used the site at lrworkshop.com? I have a log-in but otherwise no connection.

It's really useful and has some "crowd" input to develop it. Here is the diagram posted above...https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/2.5-petrol/thermostat-housing_53276

There are links to some vendors, not all of them but is is very handy.

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17 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

Have you used the site at lrworkshop.com? I have a log-in but otherwise no connection.

It's really useful and has some "crowd" input to develop it. Here is the diagram posted above...https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/2.5-petrol/thermostat-housing_53276

There are links to some vendors, not all of them but is is very handy.

Yes, occasionally. I prefer the on device nature of the manuals, when out and about.

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If I make a mistake with the calculations and installation, I'll have to take the engine out, the flywheel off and all of that.

If I put the trigger wheel up front, it's quicker.

I think the flywheel is better, but I'm getting impatient.

 

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I'll take a good look at the timing case, see if I can make a bracket, like 17H, that will satisfy my concerns, and a wiring route that's well protected, perhaps up to the sensors for the MS, beside the water pump might do.

 

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57 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Aside from being slightly neater there's very little against a trigger wheel on the front pulley.

I've got a few universal wheels of various styles knocking round the shed if you want any to play with?

That would be very helpful, thanks. I'm going to have a few cups of coffee on Saturday, starring at the front of the engine, that should firm up my plan. It's mounting the sensor that I need to wrap my head around.

I'll post up dimensions, and see what can be done.

 

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The sensor is easy enough - bear in mind almost any VR type sensor will work as it's just a magnetic coil pointing at a toothed ring - same as crank, flywheel, cam, ABS sensors so if there's a better mounting style out there from another car it's worth a go.

It just needs to be pointing at the trigger wheel with a ~1mm gap, you can rotate the wheel on the pulley to clock it around so that the gap passes at the right time.

I'll measure the wheels I've got and post up.

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The grinder stones arrived, as did the hole saw. And so: the adapters are finished, bar a dust of paint.

First, some"porting":IMG_20200619_153729.thumb.jpg.a30c0ac0d1f67e235ce6173a2378abb9.jpg

IMG_20200619_155048.thumb.jpg.4049d245d464d30e6f85ba47af12a5bf.jpg

Corners gone.

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I'm very happy with that lot.

I think it's back to the block time.

Get it painted and start to figure out this VR hall effect sensor concept.

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Thank you. I'll come back to this on Sunday. Saturday will be domestically focused.

 

Probably. I don't like the plug. The wire retainer is a pig to unclip, though that might be my inexperience.

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