Gazzar Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 6 hours ago, Landrover17H said: I insist you stop now, I mean, you're doing too good a job of this? This puts us to shame. I was kidding when I said it last, yet you're really lr4x4's answer to 'Project Binky'. All you want to do to complete the picture is explain "Why it's perfect..." Then change everything. You could make a few more brackets... Oh yeah, and never finish the thing. It's a long way from Binky. And it's not perfect. It's done well, and. Hopefully, once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 To help visualise the EDIS VR sensor setup: You can of course rotate the VR sensor as long as you rotate the trigger wheel with it and keep the relationship about right. You can trim it in MS to get it bang-on, but if you're too far out you'll run out of advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Erm, Fridge, as this is an EDIS4, shouldn't it be 90 degrees, or 9 teeth from the gap, rather than 5 for the EDIS8? Could have some funky running otherwise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Good point! Principle is the same though, in the early days there was a lot of confusion about teeth before/after the sensor relative to TDC what with there being BTDC and ATDC for the timing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Yes, I think I've got it. The engine rotates Clockwise facing the front of the engine. When the engine is at TDC, the sensor is 90 degrees behind the missing tooth, over tooth 9. This can be anywhere. The plan is: Re torque the bolts on nearly everything. Spray coat 2 on the engine, asap. Dry engine: meanwhile paint the extra bits, manifold, various brackets. Once engine dry, fit fan belt. Then see how the bracket for the sensor needs to be hacked to fit. This gets the timing wheel angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) Quote Bowie wrote: Nowt wrong with a hot metal glue gun.... I don't know if he's kidding, but I'm not. I was going to glue mine. I've a few 17H knocking about, and fully intend to use my runner to orientate the trigger-wheel. The trigger-wheel now stands an easy 'interference fit'. I have it in my mind to shove the pully/trigger wheel on my running engine and strobe-light the orientation using a spot of 'Bodger's Freind'... JB Weld. I'm lucky to have a 41mm flogging/ slogging ring spanner. Just before the JB Weld hardens, twiddle a bit until it's spot on. Being such a tight fit now, I reckon it'll never need welding-proper, but I will anyway. Edited July 6, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 I think he means a mig welder. Which is an option. It would make it a lot easier, and quicker than tapping the pulley, worrying about alignment and such like. I could make a clamp to keep things tight, then tack in a couple of places. Ummmm. I'm liking this idea more and more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Gazzar said: I think he means a mig welder. Which is an option. It would make it a lot easier, and quicker than tapping the pulley, worrying about alignment and such like. I could make a clamp to keep things tight, then tack in a couple of places. Ummmm. I'm liking this idea more and more. Yeh, precisely, as long as you have the alignment right from the off, there's no reason to remove it unless the pulley wears out, which you would do well to do.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Okay. I'll weld it, I should be able to manage the distortion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 I'd weld it to a pressed steel pulley, I'd be concerned about a cast iron pulley/damper and putting heat into any rubber section of it... not familiar with the 2.25 setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Cast steel, no damper. Should be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Or this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 I’ve used a similar metal epoxy stuff, sticks like the proverbial but it didn’t like vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Yes, shock loads would concern me. If I run a capstan, or go fording.... By the time I figure all this out, worry about distorting the steel, and damaging the seal land, I'd have drilled it and tapped it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 This is a great thread ! And somehow I missed it. I was thinking ‘no updates on the lightweight for a while’ and then 32 pages of goodness to read. Great work Gazzar- can’t wait for this to jump threads and land into the Lightweight build. 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 P.s - a bit late but if you need some carbide burrs again, let me know - they are easier and give a better finish than stones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Thank you! Should I put a link? Can I? I've ordered up a heap of stuff from Nigel, so lots more figuring to do in the next week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Buggery shot duck. I hate spray paint guns, costing less than £5 to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 The blessed thing decided to put paint everywhere bar the engine, unless it was gobbed on in lumps that turned into runs. Much cursing. Followed by judicious wiping, a gun disassembly and fettle. Result, a nicely performing gun, first time ever. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 I don't like RTV, or other instant gaskets, based mainly on finding noodles of it wrapped around water pumps and strainers in the past, not my doing. What's wrong with a gasket between the flywheel and the engine? With a little skim of RTV at the bearing block leak point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 To cheer myself up, I heat shrink wrapped the dip stick, including new O ring from the gasket set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 The engine is drying over a couple of electric oil radiators, so, hopefully, in a few days the paint will be hard enough to cope with me messing about with the fan belt and alternator. Then I can see about the CPS VR sensor bracket design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 That engine looks superb now, second coat really gave the colour depth! Amazing you can see it on a photo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 That engine has come out beautifully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 The spray gun was working quite nicely by that stage. I think that really is the difference. When I come to spray the body work I'll see if I can reanimate my semi decent gun. I will need to get the whole air system in shape for that job, though. And buy a decent breathing apparatus for the 2k paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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