Jump to content

2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

Recommended Posts

Fabulous !  I want to ‘like’ but the forum isn’t telling me I’ve done too many 🤷‍♂️. That motor is going to look right at home in the lightweight 😊

I like the heat shrink ... what’s the thinking behind it?

Im thinking of changing the dip stick on my 80 to that style, the 200 Defender has that short freestanding one, and if I can have it twisted to the front it should hopefully clear my exhaust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Apologies if you’ve already covered it but what did you do to prep? And what paint?

What's prep?

I cleaned it with brake cleaner, sprayed the exposed steel with ZG90, and whacked a load of U-POL etch primer on it.

Then spat paint on it with the cheap gravity feed gun that you find in a cheap set of cheap tools from Lidl.

The paint is recon MOD green from Paintman. Synthetic enamel, it's quite nice.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/5/2020 at 4:54 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

Thanks for these👍🏻 Just bought some bearings for some magnesium motorcycle wheels I have, that I’d been struggling to find 😊

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Am I missing something or is there paint inside the head ports here? I would have thought those would be masked off to avoid filling the insides with paint? :huh:

 

 

I did think about that.

Exhaust will burn the paint away, so no problem. No cat to clog.

Intake has a smear of grease, so that will wipe away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lightweight(air portable) coil bracket has arrived:

IMG_20200709_120723.thumb.jpg.ebfad2fcd9dc32133d8438c91ea07a73.jpg

This fits on the rocker cover on the 1/2 tonne air portable, so is like to use the same on the 17H.

 

Nige is aghast at mounting the Ford coil pack on the rocker, but I think if I put a heat shield on top it will be fine, a block of that plastic, or an aluminium sheet should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the "plan":

Mount a modified coil pack holder on the standard coil holder:IMG_20200709_124549.thumb.jpg.756e929270b0a36d0206af6d58c5927e.jpg

IMG_20200709_124513.thumb.jpg.dbc1ec41dc3b41bff7925252eaf87358.jpg

And trap a small, but lethal, heat shield between them, to protect the underside of the coil pack.

It's a heavy assembly. 

IMG_20200709_124531.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same as spec for the 2.5, maybe one heat range colder as you are updating things, but probably fine with regular ones.

Coils will be fine on the rocker, a very common thing to do where the coils were firing twice as often, as you know. LS engine have them on the rocker, and they tend to be quite reliable.....

Remember an engine is only the water temperature, apart from the exhaust manifold and a bit of the head next to it.

My V8 coil packs are mounted to the side of the plenum....right above the rocker cover(!).

I would check bonnet clearance, if you can? The coil packs are probably a little taller than a traditional coil on its side.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I've the easy sensors sorted.

Honestly, I only intended to potter this evening.

But, I got carried away.

Manifold air temperature sensor location selection.

I had an idea to hide this under the swan neck, but clearance works have been an issue.

 

IMG_20200709_190234.jpg

IMG_20200709_190236.jpg

IMG_20200709_190242.jpg

IMG_20200709_190400.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then the coolant sensor.

I got lucky here.

The gauges I fitted in the LWB came with adapters. One of these threaded into the thermostat.

It wasn't so good on the sensor side, but I had a tap. 

It will work, some judicious copper washers and it be fine.

IMG_20200709_194747.jpg

IMG_20200709_194755.jpg

IMG_20200709_194938.jpg

IMG_20200709_200751.jpg

IMG_20200709_201337.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh. And the fan.

The pulley and the fan.  The pulley mount holes are series, the water pump is metric, M8.

I had to drill them out.

Still, it's on. Should it be yellow?

IMG_20200709_204241.jpg

IMG_20200709_203122.jpg

IMG_20200709_203105.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thermostat on the 17H is taller than the series. The shorter bolts arrived after I painted the engine.

I know, I know, I could have tapped the original ones more and cut them short.

But I bought new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy