Gazzar Posted July 9, 2020 Author Share Posted July 9, 2020 It all needs to come apart anyway, to fit the bypass hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 37 minutes ago, Gazzar said: It all needs to come apart anyway, to fit the bypass hose. 😅 phew - I was worried for a minute there. I had the same thing fitting the series housing onto the 200 - I bought new for that because I wanted the small hex wide flange bolts, so it’s look right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 The engine fan always seems to end up engine coloured in MOD units 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 6 hours ago, Bowie69 said: The engine fan always seems to end up engine coloured in MOD units Along with pulleys, alternator, starter motor, flywheel housing, intake manifold... I think they must assemble and then dip them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 (edited) Dip them, why would they not? Colour won't come into it. A second colour coming out? Doubtful, "Stores is for storing".... and initiative frowned upon. The adage stands: "If it moves, salute it; if it doesn't, paint it," Here the coil sits on the rocker-cover, it's there to create space for fuseboxes/relays/swirl-pot etc Variously vertical, or horiz; never had it complain, I'll ask what it thinks. Edited July 10, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 I think that a bit of a heat shield will be entirely sufficient. I was actually thinking of just welding the ford mount to the coil bracket, and have done with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Snagger said: Along with pulleys, alternator, starter motor, flywheel housing, intake manifold... I think they must assemble and then dip them! I'm most of the way, then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 I'll have to get a starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 9 hours ago, Anderzander said: 😅 phew - I was worried for a minute there. I had the same thing fitting the series housing onto the 200 - I bought new for that because I wanted the small hex wide flange bolts, so it’s look right. I just love this conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Bowie 69, I don't understand much about sparkplugs. When your say, "colder", what is that and why do you say that? Learning time. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 A reasonable link: https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/special-plugs-modified-engine For NGK BP6ES you can go to BP7ES, one colder It helps protect the plug from burning up, but equally you may be fine with standard plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 (edited) Minded to me running gas, and the natural stuff at that - more demanding than LPG, - hence a CR up at 11:1 I've not found plugs on this engine too critical. Compared to my set-up, relatively speaking running liquid, you'd have to be playing at it? I run stock plugs, Denso or NGK. Single-electrode basic with a narrowed 0.7mm gap for gas. £8-9 a set delivered these are thrown around as sweets to kids. I don't suppose I could get away with this as easily without Lambda control, but your metering is going to have mine look a joke. Unlike yours truly, you're being kind to your plugs. I would be surprised if you need anything more than cooking-grade and stock. I shouldn't worry. Edited July 10, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 All very interesting. I've increased the compression ratio quite a bit, and will be running a lambda sensor. With the cam changes as well, possibly 20 extra horses on top of the standard. How would I know if the plugs are under stress? And what harm if I run the plugs that can cope with more heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 (edited) If you run a plug designed for hotter than you actually do, this is generally safer. All you'll do is soot things up and have it run poorly, losing power/economy. The other way: overheated plugs damage with molten metal, and ceramics floating about. I'm sure it's possible, but in my experience, you'd have to be trying... You'd succeed with weak-running or over-advance, something easy to do with gas when pressure runs low; or poorly set ignition/carbs. You've got mixture-control and liquid etc. It's clear you have a heap of mechanical-affinity, you'll know before that happens, you'll sense it, so i can't see it. Edited July 10, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 If the plug is too cold a range, it will spot up and not last. If it is too hot a range, you burn the electrode/ceramic out of it. Just right and the plug will last ages, be clean, and brown tipped. So it's about having the plug that runs at its ideal temperature, rather than anything else. Different driving can affect things, I remember in my old Morris Minor handbook, I think in hot countries you could change a heat range, but I am a bit fuzzy on the details there I've had plugs burn out on my Audi, purely, I think, because I drive it a bit hard.... The ceramic above the plug starts crumbling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Ah, yes, pootiling along a green lane versus flat out on the autobann, all on the same holiday. What impact would E85 have? Crystal ball gazing suggests that this will become more common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Bowie makes a lot of sense 😊 The hotter you run your engine the cooler the plug. So higher compression or higher boost then a cooler plug. My experience is that if something is running rich or cool a hotter plug can clean it up. If things are getting too hot then too hot a plug can cause preignition, then a cooler plug can sort that out. One thing I might add is that eBay is flooded with fake spark plugs, and some of them are pretty rubbish. There are even guides out there for how they subtly differ in appearance from the real ones - so my advice would be - be wary of the cheapest and look at the ones with reviews. Ethanol burns cooler I’m told. Don’t know what difference it would make if you were to use it, either neat or mixed, Im afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Oh, unbelievable. I wonder if my local carp factor would have them. I'll go cooler. It's lower risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 More than one part number - I bet they are different heat ranges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 This is a minefield. There's a cross reference look up that lists dozens of alternate part numbers for each plug, even from the same manufacturer. Does it matter that much? BP7ES is it. I'll try the local shop this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Could be worth giving ACR a call and asking them what they’d recommend for their upgrade package. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Excellent idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 E85 runs fine in the V8 when we've been on the continent, but disagrees with the older style cork seal on the top of the fuel tank the newer moulded metal & rubber type I believe is immune but I couldn't make it actually seal so I've resigned myself to not brimming it when we're abroad and/or having to do fuel tank gaskets on the regular. At least they're cheap and easy. I think you're worrying too much about the coil pack, they live on top of engines in a lot of vehicles and the 2.25 isn't a fire-breathing twin-turbo beast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 I wasn't worried until Nige sucked in his breath. And mentioned resin melting! Making the system E85 proof will be a challenge, but I think I'll be okay. The high pressure fuel pump should be easy source, the tanks I can probably manage. The military fillers must be sealable, there has to be a "rubber" that's is resistant to this stuff. The tank switch over valve should be okay, and there's not much else, bar the lift pump. Which could be tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 4 minutes ago, Gazzar said: I wasn't worried until Nige sucked in his breath. And mentioned resin melting! Making the system E85 proof will be a challenge, but I think I'll be okay. The high pressure fuel pump should be easy source, the tanks I can probably manage. The military fillers must be sealable, there has to be a "rubber" that's is resistant to this stuff. The tank switch over valve should be okay, and there's not much else, bar the lift pump. Which could be tricky. Would you need to retain the lift pump if you have the HP one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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