Jump to content

2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

Recommended Posts

I believe so. 

The high pressure pump powers the injector, and returns excess fuel from and to a mini tank. The low pressure pump fills the mini tank. It's quite neat.

Fitting a high pressure pump to the two main tanks became difficult, fast.

And having high pressure petrol in a switch over valve was a bit frightening.

I like this plan.

I worry about the diaphragm in the lift pump, but I'm sure there's a replacement part somewhere, that will cope, perhaps in California. Somewhere that's been down this road before us.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I broke the original lift pump. Snapped off the filter part of the casing.

This was ages ago, during one of my house moves.

I bought a new one from Britpart, but the cam lever that operates the diaphragm is awful, three steps of steel spot welded together running on my new cam shaft. No. Not happening.

I'll build one good one out of two, I think.

Hopefully Britpart just copied the original part, and it is all compatible.

A dining room table job.

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh. Well, I suppose I could.

It's on the list. The alternator should be next, though. Pulley alignment and VR CPS sensor bracketry is the thing I want to do first, before the engine goes in the chassis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not so sure.

In the obvious position the alternator doesn't align.

IMG_20200711_152332.thumb.jpg.e15ede0be391caee85966b815e165986.jpg

IMG_20200711_152355.thumb.jpg.29a784d03e82c8eb80476aaa14c3d257.jpg

Bad times.

In the extreme opposite position, it's doesn't align either.

IMG_20200711_153223.thumb.jpg.f476d8e8f22238d6a882191c056a055d.jpg

The pulley is too close to the body of the alternator. 

A couple of washers makes it good, but then the  pulley nut isn't entirely over thread. 

IMG_20200711_162407.thumb.jpg.b6a29c1ce82d8f4eca11d70e037a6f53.jpg

IMG_20200711_162412.thumb.jpg.946d00ff47566179d4e8fba92dbfcaf8.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone have a series alternator pulley to hand?

What diameter is the shaft?

What is the distance between the inboard end and the middle of the vee? 

Oh! And what diameter is the pulley?!!

IMG_20200711_163326.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do have enough to start feeding my thoughts as to brackets and position for the CPS.

I like this one:

IMG_20200711_163509.thumb.jpg.499c8086c62df32cebbb385dd0f83721.jpg

I'd have to fit an adjuster on the bracket so I can move the sensor up and down, but this is neat, keeps the wires away from spinning stuff and is clear from the rest of the timing marks.

This is an option, all inside the belt arc:IMG_20200711_164316.thumb.jpg.d5e894d2a3f573745b3861b8ae62efa5.jpg

IMG_20200711_164854.thumb.jpg.aab661703df16123c1485925b9e2076d.jpg

 

Very tight to the timing mark, very little space for the bracket, but very protected.

Is there a risk of a stray signal from the fan?

Or the alternator?

 

Don't like this, but do-able: vulnerable wire:

IMG_20200711_163232.thumb.jpg.5917ec47261e1ba6e9aaccc558d8d975.jpg

This might have worked, but the sensor is the wrong way around:

IMG_20200711_163252.thumb.jpg.8c1b37f2a9b59959cca23e544e779983.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy