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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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4 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Could you not space the whole alternator bracket forward? 

Yes, but I'd rather not, if I can avoid it. If a pulley fixes it, that's a result. And it should, as this is all most likely standard series positioning, as the crank pulley fits both engines.

 

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19 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Wrong way round........?

It won't care.... It is just a voltage producer.

Fixing bolt outward, and in same space as fan belt.

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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:

Fixing bolt outward, and in same space as fan belt.

Ah, sorry, photo looked fuzzy.

Could turn 90, have bolt upwards, and connector pointing in to timing case, may make it tidy? Or may not fit ;)

Just trying to see a way where it doesn't mean the cable shoots off into no man's land before going up the timing case.

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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Ah, sorry, photo looked fuzzy.

Could turn 90, have bolt upwards, and connector pointing in to timing case, may make it tidy? Or may not fit ;)

Just trying to see a way where it doesn't mean the cable shoots off into no man's land before going up the timing case.

Exactly. That's why this is a strong contender. The cable route is up to the coolant temp sensor, along the rocker to the throttle sensor, picking up the injector and air temperature sensor along the way to the coil wiring.

What else is there? Knock sensor? 

IMG_20200711_163509.jpg

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I think I've a plan.

I'll use the alternator mounting position, and an L profile bracket. But I'll use slotted holes, giving the adjustability I might need.

 

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Not sure I understand how this set-up creates belt-alignment problems, although to be honest mine might be out. Replaced my alternator, engine in situ, and it didn't occur to me to look. Appears to be something going with the mounting points to your alternator?

Ah, looking again (painted black in your pix) I think you've a different mount-casting to me? I'll check.

 

Best change the two bolts you have now to one long 'un. You want an M8 x130mm. Right now, engine-out, fine. Make everything far simpler once it's in situ. Fan-belt tension with M8 x130mm becomes a 5 minuter, done from the top. Else, as is, crawl around in a half-hour knuckle-scraper. Ask me how I know?

Edited by Landrover17H
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13 hours ago, Gazzar said:

What else is there? Knock sensor?

Nope, very rare to bother with one and they're a fair old faff to set up. People running lots of boost tend to like them as things are always far closer to catastrophic failure :lol:

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3 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Excuse my ignorance - but what was this for ? 
 

image.thumb.png.fcc0c508a9dd638bc7c94b62e664c60c.png

I'll put a little plate over that. It's a bit ugly.

In fact, I'll put bolts in all the tapped blind holes, just to keep debris out. No doubt they'll be useful for cable tidy purposes.

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2 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Could you integrate the trigger sensor mount into that plate ? 

Yes, that was my first plan. This will be iterative, with many false starts.

I might have to triangulate, I need it to be very robust, and protective. 

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5 hours ago, rusty_wingnut said:

Lurking with interest here, I've got a 2.5petrol and a 3.5V8 potentially lined up for my Series 1. Heart says V8, head says 2.5

The V8 will be more powerful, more fun, and more economical... what's not to like?

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I looked at a very original series on Monday and it gave me food for thought.

It suggested the fan belt was 4mm further away from the block on my engine.

Which makes no sense. Thoughts included:

Is the timing chest thicker?

Is the crank longer? The pulley?

All wrong, of course.

The pulley wasn't on the shaft fully.

 

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It's also brought the trigger wheel into contact with the timing bracketry.

I could have trimmed the wheel, and it probably makes no difference.

But I turned down the spacers instead.

IMG_20200715_201046.jpg

IMG_20200715_201054.jpg

IMG_20200715_204121.jpg

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