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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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It's close to correct. I need to figure out how to anchor the solid pipe to the chassis, so it can take the strain of the Flexi hose. Without drilling, if possible.

It's not the correct piping for an early FFR lightweight, but it will do.

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I'd put a 360 Degs stress-loop in there. Not because it truly needs it, (come on, we don't need the oil-cooler, but..) more because I can, and it'd look great. I was teaching my boy to do such things a couple of years back. Here's a still, he's too young to be made into any internet sensation, but with your assurances 'your eyes only', I'll PM you a link to his school video, shows fitment to my 109.

Stress Loop.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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18 hours ago, Peaklander said:

That eBay result just makes me sad. I fitted a 5MB to my 88" ground-up rebuild. It cost me £100 which I thought was a lot. The New TD5 bulkhead, to which I fitted the series footwells and tunnel, cost £167. It wasn't very long ago really. Then stupidly I sold the whole vehicle. 

Edit: although maybe my engine wasn't quite the same as that. I don't know. Same colour, petrol, 2-1/4. I just don't know the code.

I think all  would be forced to agree with you? Even a 5MB 2.25  won't be cheap. I propose, because this discusses a 17H it's relevant, yet I'm conscious of a build-thread hi-jack? When these things were two-a-penny, the zeitgiest was to fill the air with attempts to make a Series what it'll never be. The baby was thrown with the bath water. There's more powerful, and more economical solutions, but, as the last development of the 4-pot, none truly better. Sadly, the herd-mindset of that era makes some things a rare find. Thankfully, that war-cry has passed.

I suspect the loudest complaint comes from the very herd that created this. Forgive my smugness - ten years back, I was left thinking this can't be right? I collected rare parts for tuppence ha'penny. I know for a fact my various PTO parts will see £4-5K, I paid £120. I could go on...

Let's face it, we can't expect prices on stuff the herd threw out to go down.

This,,,, Another eBay 17H deserves to go cheap, but with so few around, and not in the back of beyond either, all the price of the first will do is serve as a wake-up call for the price of the second?

Edited by Landrover17H
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The near side, on the other hand, has a challenge. I think it's okay, but will see....

First, though, I fitted the front panel, and thankfully, there's a hole for the oil pipe.

That's good...

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It definitely hits the shackle bracket bolt. And it's very, very close to the banjo bolt for the oil cooler return.

I think I'll have to drill out the shackle bracket and reverse the bolt.

Which means that changing the shackle bolt will require the exhaust to be moved out of the way.

I could use a shorter bolt, and skinny nut.

Actually, that makes a fair bit of sense.

Can't be thicker than the head of a bolt, can it?

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The manifold isn't tight to the head in the photos, it wants to go more to the chassis.

This was taken from the top of the head, showing the gap at the top of the manifold:IMG_20200726_175604.thumb.jpg.6010a265e7335826b1c3008df44723a1.jpg

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1 minute ago, Bowie69 said:

The driver's side pipe, looks like it wants to go through the same place as the brake lines, no?

I think it's okay. It's about 2 inches higher than the brake pipes, and an inch plus inboard. But I'll check in a bit.

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There was a chap on YouTube who fitted the ACR manifold and he turned the shackle bolt the other way - so the nut was on the outside as you mentioned. The shackles are threaded I think, so more than just swapping the bolt, but he said it was enough to work.

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7 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

There was a chap on YouTube who fitted the ACR manifold and he turned the shackle bolt the other way - so the nut was on the outside as you mentioned. The shackles are threaded I think, so more than just swapping the bolt, but he said it was enough to work.

Yes, I think a skinny nut would be better. It's two threaded parts tightened together on each other, rather than a single nut. That, and strong Loctite, should do the trick. I'll try tomorrow, time and humour permitting.

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Yes, been on this road. You'll want to reverse the shackle-bolt. It's tight but goes. I've already mentioned the tie-rod (or  lack of) aiming to give you grief, but you've got one. I have a twin-box zhorst and the first mount with mine is at the stock position. As would a single box. I don't think a LWT will differ from a109 but you'll know more than me. You shouldn't need anything more than stock position mounts, mine took a heap of faffing, clonking over gearbox rubber (as my grab of your pic). Tie-rod sorted this.

Like me, but in a different direction, you're pioneering quite a bit here. You're not able to take a known Mega set-up and simply load-up like you would with a V8 . Thus, you might want a Wideband Lambda gauge or the option, certainly during set-up. If you stetch to a rolling road you'll definitely want a spare. Stick at least another Lambda bung on there. Not sure I understand why, but wideband Lambda gauges by the major suppliers want their bungs a couple of foot away from the collector. I just did as I was told. Ansd if it's an Innovate O2 gauge, you'll need a taller bung (see piccy).

Clonk.png

WB.png

LinkPipe June 2019.gif

Edited by Landrover17H
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Oh yes, one more thing. That ACR pipe is pricey, it's very easy to find some cheapo clamps to throw on. These crush the pipe which is fine for something that goes on once. But you'll be cutting your ACR pipe to separate the now crushed sleeve joint these create. A bit pricier, but find yourself these. On eBay, they work as a band, as against a tourniquet on the steel. And you can really get 'em tight, yet won't crush the sleeve hence pipes separate again, 'easy' - no fight. Also ride over the steel to provide a second skin to the joint. This is the one you'll want at the first joint (as grabbed from your piccy). Don't put cheapo stuff on there!

Exhaust ClampUsedwithACRLinkPipe.jpg

Here.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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Interesting, does the bend on the manifold, just before the join, cause any problems?

Because I usually just put a smear of copper slip over the  join. They usually come apart easily enough once that's done.

 

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It's tight, and using that type of coupling is a force-fit because of bend right near it. But it's non-damaging. Anyhting else does damage, which is fine but leaves you committed. You'll only get away with distortion so many times.

 

Annnnnd... another thing. In my experience, Zhorst will be a faff whatever you do. Start with stainless. Double S etc, these might all be the same part number but they finish a inch here, or an inch there. If you work in mild steel, when it rots, which it will do, you'll have to start the whole hash again. Which means, you're buying for keeps. If you can still get these, find a full S/S twin box job. They flow as the  ACR box, without the MGB rort. Then again, you might like that sort of thing?

Yes I know, the ACR manglefold is M/S.

Edited by Landrover17H
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