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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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It's a combination of steel, solder and copper, I think. I've etch primed it and I'll give it a few dusts of matt in a little while.

In other news I've just ordered a heap of bits for the engine. Expensive! But should get me to an installed engine and exhaust.

I'm off for a few days, I don't think much will happen until early March, but I'm still on plan to finish the engine building by Easter.

 

Then the fun bit of the EFI install.

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5 minutes ago, Snagger said:

InstalLATION.  Don’t follow the Yanks poor example of the language! 😉

? ?

Should get me to an installed engine and

 

This bit? Change it to....

 

Get me to an installation engine? No. Makes no sense.

 

 

Interestingly, a lot of the American dialect uses words that used to be in widespread use in nineteenth century english, but have been superceded as the language evolved.

 

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15 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Who makes the most reliable, and commonly available crank position sensors?

Ford is what's used with EDIS and I've not had one fail, TBH I'd expect most genuine-parts crank sensors to be fine, it's just cheap aftermarket that might be a risk.

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Oh, install. EFI install, Vs installation.

Gotcha.

Youngest says you are right. He's a wordsmith.

Not bothered: I break english a lot. I consider it accelerated evolution.

 

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Just now, FridgeFreezer said:

Ford is what's used with EDIS and I've not had one fail, TBH I'd expect most genuine-parts crank sensors to be fine, it's just cheap aftermarket that might be a risk.

Thanks. I've seen some transit sensors that look like I can attach to the flywheel housing easily enough. I can tap the existing bung to take a bolt. So that's good.

Screenshot_2020-02-19-14-58-22-159_com.android.chrome.thumb.jpg.644dab5101153503e5388195672c1784.jpg

I'll build up the engine, once the crank is in I can confirm the clearance between the flywheel and the housing. Then I can get the trigger designed and fitted. That will get me the limitations on sensor position.

G.

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And, just playing with a diesel air intake. If I ever go multi point, this would be considered a potential start point. If only the studs were in the right place....

IMG_20200219_172837.thumb.jpg.e8d717eec59e6d96cfa4969b28d5c0cd.jpg

 

Or. If I could Tig, the flanges would be cut off and reversed.

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Be careful. Intake requirements for diesel and petrol are quiet different. Short intake runners will rob you of many low end torques, smoothness, efficiency and ponies. 

Plugging numbers in here highlights that you want looong runners. You're not trying to build a high rpm race engine. I've seen first hand what happens when this is ignored - funnily enough on a carb > efi converted engine. Guy built himself a very clever manifold that sat right in the valley all nice and neat with multi point injection. Intake runners of about 1.5". It ran like utter garbage. Popped, farted and backfired off idle no matter what the settings, gutless through mid range, disappointing even screaming, guzzled fuel. 70bhp (flywheel) from a freshly rebuilt 2.8 litre engine with a brand new Kent cam. Swap to an original carb manifold with single point throttle body injection and she woke up. Different engine. Smooth, torquey, powerful. 

Have a play with the calc, it'll show you the way to a good result :) Something similar to that diesel manifold might kinda work, but it'll be a long way from optimal. 

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How rough should they be?

These feel, well, slightly furry, not smooth, like before.

 

But not rough.

 

When I drag a fingernail, it's noticeable, but only just.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A large box has arrived.

Hopefully I've the wearing parts of an engine inside it.

I do have an exhaust manifold, with a bung for a wide band lambda.

 

IMG_20200304_175717.jpg

IMG_20200304_175606.jpg

IMG_20200304_175829.jpg

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I have a lot of reading to do.

But not a lot of time to do it in, things are about to get busy at the Landrover funding place, they think of themselves as my employer?

Ah well.

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Yes......

One is the dip stick tube.

 

Fine.

The other is the oil filter gasket.

Again, fine.

 

But.

 

I've also a red box Britpart "XS" rear crank oil seal.

With a "G" suffix part number

Not sure about that....

 

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