smallfry Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 IIRC Slave cylinder bore on the V8s is different. I cant remember if you can fit a 4 pot one to the bellhousing though ? Adjusting the pushrod to get no slip, and then hard to get in gear suggests the hydraulics, release lever, bearing or pivot............... Actually again its a long time since I have played with this stuff, but ISTR that the pivot length is different between the LT77 and R380, or maybe its the 4 pots ? I cant see that the standard clutch would slip as its quite big, not unless you are towing something VERY heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 Ended up putting a TD5 push rod in and it looks to have completely solved it. 😀 Im pretty happy with how its running now except for warmup. Anybody got some advice in tuning this area. is it just a case of amending the WUW buckets on repeated cold start occassions? My symptoms... * First cold start. Runs then dies after around 5-10 seconds. * Second start immediately after doesnt die, but runs rough until fully warmed up. The rough running is like its missing a little, doenst pick up cleanly and it hunts at idle, from around 800-1300 every few seconds. The hunting calms down as it warms through. Ive periodically upped the WUW buckets now aroudn 30% and ive changed the ASE timer to 30 seconds. Both have made some difference but not sure im headed in the right direction. Can you guys tell me your settings for ASE and WUW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Ideally you should get it running stably on warm idle before you start looking at anything else - because WUE (and possibly ASE) are % modifiers to the main fuel map you need to make sure that your hot idle is right first. I would probably approach it as: Get it started and warmed up, no matter how rough it runs. Lock the timing to the values you are expecting at idle. Disable any corrections - EGO, idle valve etc. Set your idle speed (you will probably need to block off the IAC to do this) Tune the idle cells to either the AFR (I think mines at about 14.2) you want if you have a wideband or by ear so it's ticking over sweetly. You want to make sure that any cells neighbouring the idle cell don't have big jumps in value, as this will likely cause the idle to fluctuate as it will go lean/rich and cause the hunting. Add some load (cooling fans, turn steering etc) and make sure it stays stable and doesn't start hunting again. Blip the throttle and check it settles. Turn your EGO back on (although it should probably not be active at idle anyway) and your idle valve and check that it's all still stable at idle and when under load. Unlock the timing, check it's still ok and doesn't hunt. Again check for big variations in timing which will kick the engine speed if you end up in that cell. Normally you have a column below the idle speed with +1 or +2 to prevent stalls - not sure if Nige's basemap has this built in. Leave it overnight to cool down again. If you start up the laptop with Tunerstudio, there should be an indicator for cranking, and after start enrichment (ASE). If it's starting then running for 5-10 secs then dying, it's either too much / too little fuel or too little air. If it doesn't stall if you give it a bit of throttle, likely the latter. If it makes no difference, leave it another day to fully cool down then add some fuel to the ASE bucket for the temperature you are starting with - I'm at about 60% ASE at 15C dropping in a fairly straight line to 5%ish at 70C - with ASE running for about 10seconds. If it starts and runs until the ASE indicator goes out in tunerstudio, then it's probably WUE that needs changing. WUE I'm at about 190% at 0C, straight lining down to 100% at 70 - but tunerstudio has a WUE wizard that will set this for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 As Jon says - although it's kind of hidden in the mass of MS documentation, warmup / cranking / after-start / accel are enrichments that get added to whatever the "base" fuel map is doing so get the "normal running" buttoned up before gradually starting to tune those things ONE at a time. Cold start is always a long game purely because you need to start from cold to tune it and hence only get one shot per day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 Thanks for the comprehensive replies guys. My hot idle and general driveability is now fairly good with just a little more fiddling around AE to really make gear changes really sweet but overall im pretty happy with it. its definately faster than its suspension can handle lol. I understand the ASE and WUE are % additive, and interesting mine are significantly less % than yours, although i know its all relative!! You also prompted me to look at the VE revs and fuel jump between cells. Perhaps I need a another column in there to smooth it out more. I have recently enabled the PWM closed loop idle too, only to ensure my winch doesnt stall the engine which it was nearly doing without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 My percentages may be off as I have a feeling my req_fuel is not that accurate, as I was working off a map that was on the vehicle when I got it, rather than working from scratch, and it's also gone through various iterations as it's been upgraded from MS2 to MS3 and things like incorporate AFR Target enabled. For my columns I have 500, 750 (which is about the target idle) and then 1100 - but I may have a bigger table than you as I seem to remember you are on MS1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 Just as an update.... the hunting at cold idle has turned out to be the PWM closed loop idle settings. Whats happening is that as it cycles from around 400-1900 revs its trying to catch it using the PWM. The problem is that the PWM is over compensating by opening too much/fast, then the revs shoot up and it then tries to compensate too far the other way resulting in this kinda sine wave of idle speeds which calms down over time as it warms up to a rock steady idle when its up to operating temps. What i've done is change the fast recovery time setting and increased it so its not just chasing the idle so much and letting the engine settle. It seems to have improved it but not solved completely. So now as I understand it its opening and closing the valve more slowly than before. Ive also tried the WUW auto tune which recommended I up the WUW buckets which helped a little too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 Hey all. I quite fancy a 52mm rev counter to replace the temp gauge which I don’t need anymore. What’s the best 52mm tachometer and how do you connect it up with Megasquirt? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 I have a VDO Cockpit Vision as it's a close match to the standard LR gauges: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-tacho-52mm-diameter-0-6000rpm-333015010 I got it via the US as it worked out a lot cheaper. One of the outputs on the MS can be configured as an RPM out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 Thanks, I’ll look into that. Guessing there is a setting in TS to turn it on. Is the MS rpm output pretty universal then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 I've not looked at MS1, but on MS2 and later one of the outputs can be configured to be a tach, which goes straight to the input on the gauge. If you are using EDIS for ignition then I believe you can use one of the EDIS pins as a tach source as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 12 hours ago, mikeh501 said: Thanks, I’ll look into that. Guessing there is a setting in TS to turn it on. Is the MS rpm output pretty universal then? You need one of these : not sure if I have stock as just putting website back on line and need to double check ! If I have the wbshop will show stock, if not more are on order lol Out of Stock Megasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Solder Type On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications .... So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Solder' type unit - ( see below for a 'Screw' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Hole saying 'Tacho Out' All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !. Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits) Out of Stock Megasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Screw Type On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications .... So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Screw' type unit - ( see above for a 'Solder' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Tower screw Hole saying 'Tacho Out' All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !. Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 1 hour ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said: You need one of these : not sure if I have stock as just putting website back on line and need to double check ! If I have the wbshop will show stock, if not more are on order lol Out of Stock Megasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Solder Type On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications .... So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Solder' type unit - ( see below for a 'Screw' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Hole saying 'Tacho Out' All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !. Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits) Out of Stock Megasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Screw Type On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications .... So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Screw' type unit - ( see above for a 'Solder' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Tower screw Hole saying 'Tacho Out' All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !. Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits) Nice solution, better than loose diodes wired in. My tacho (converted to digital) on Megajolt is a little vague at idle but on EDIS output was even worse, this would be better had I stuck to analogue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Thx nige 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted July 1, 2022 Author Share Posted July 1, 2022 Hey guys, currently doing a auto conversion on my 90. By chance does anybody know the part number for the gearbox to chassis mount? ive got the tbox one, but a bit stuck on the autbox one. It didnt come with one and a google for disco1 and RRC didnt come up with anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 23 hours ago, mikeh501 said: Hey guys, currently doing a auto conversion on my 90. By chance does anybody know the part number for the gearbox to chassis mount? ive got the tbox one, but a bit stuck on the autbox one. It didnt come with one and a google for disco1 and RRC didnt come up with anything. This is probably best posted in the part numbers forum @western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.