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Coolant / heater problem


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Well it’s not good , found a few cracks in the old hoses so order a new set as I’d noticed the intercooler ones were on there way out put it all back together refilled as per manual replaced caps , started her up and coolant came flowing out the coolant cap , s##t . So removed head this is the head gasket I’ve got and had fitted its an Elring.

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flushed head out water came out okay, only thing I found was a bit of silicone blocking this hole by no1 cylinder .

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Im starting to think that even though the water pump looks good it’s really not . What I thinks happening is , it’s sucking the coolant from the radiator before the thermostat opens because when I turned it off as soon as I opened the rad cap the coolant level drops to Normal but why ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated cheers Ian.

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Would of thought there would be tell tale traces of combustion gases tracking to a coolant gallery & /or misding/damaged bits of the head gasket, 

 

Have you head the cylinder head pressure tested, there may be a unseen internal crack allowing the coolant to be pressurised 

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Here's some better pics of the old head gasket the few marks are where it had stuck to the block , each end of the one side , in the 1st pic the water gallery hole on the right between the push rod holes is where the silicone was stuck in 

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and the other side ,

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but I do have a question the coolant holes between the push rod holes have little steel plates on one side 

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and the holes seem a bit small are you supposed to peel them off like so ,

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would make more sense and mean the coolant would flow better .

 

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Sorry Ralph , I did have it pressure tested 3 years or so ago when I rebuilt the engine and truck . Everything was working fine till 6 months ago when I did the valve stem oil seals and replaced the head gasket as a matter of course then the last month or so the heater started playing up and coolant to where I am now . I have an egt gauge fitted and it hasn’t run hot for any length of time .

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Well took the head to Chase engines this morning to get checked out,also took my spare along so if that ones knackered they can check that out . He had the old head gasket off me to see if they could identify if there where any failure points , and did say it looked like it had been skimmed a few times, if all checks out okay then he said it might be the block so that will have to come out. So I’m waiting on a phone call and I hope it’s good news will report back when I hear anything.

cheers Ian 

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Are you doing the head bolts correctly?

Your third to last picture looks blown from the cylinder into the adjacent block side coolant opening.

The restriction on the push rod side coolant ports is to ensure most of the flow is across the exhaust ports.  The small flow on the push rod side is just to prevent stagnation on that side of the head. and that is why using silicone is a really bad idea.  It breaks off and plugs those ports.

Edited by Red90
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11 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:

Quite true , will see if they pick anything up when they examine it hopefully it will be the head and not the block.

I did not look at the picture closely, but the marked spot could be a reason for it. I don't think it's the head, because the gasket has a spot that can cause such problems.

Edited by Sigi_H
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Well had the dreaded phone call today , and the head was cracked so there rebuilding my spare that I left at the same time . It’s being skimmed and valves and seats recut , guides where fine thought I’d better let them rebuild it as it was an eBay special of unknown origin.

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Cheers all , yes an expensive find but a solution to the problem , I’ll ask them when I pick the head up if they think I should pull the block and get that checked as the bloke I spoke to had the old head gasket and was going to inspect it to see if he could find a cause so he’ll confirm whether that suspect mark that Red90 spotted that I’d missed is the failure point .

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