Gremlin Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 and if it has power steering?series front axle internals still rotate when in rear wheel drive anyway, although there is no power being put through it. i dont know if i'm talking myself into it or out of it now Probably it will not kick back as much since the effort at the steering wheel is minimal, in fact jericho said My 2a with lt230 and series axles drives great.There is a barely noticable wobble of the steering wheel if you take a corner fast on full lock. And he runs power steering, as yet i do not (hopefully soon)...............I know that the fronts rotate all the time but with no power. The diff will let go of any mismatch is uj's speeds trough the prop. Jericho, you are in full 4wd all the time. The center diff just does not make any difference, all the center diff does is make the 2 TC outputs rotate at different speed round corners. Locking it just makes both outputs rotate at the same speed. Taking corners fast is ok, but try full lock off a stop sign with some welly, no power steering and all hell breaks loose at the steering wheel. In fact it gets worse cause of the center diff, if you welly it with uj's, and as soon as the front looses traction, all the power goes to one wheel at the front axle! with very nasty jives at the steering wheel. If i had to have the options now i would go with a 2wd conversion and leave the whole front end alone. I had your same setup tonk, but my homemade conversion died due to spline wear, so i went with the lt230, the only major improvement has been low range, the landy can crawl any obstacle with ease. Permanent 4wd has been a pain until i sourced the front axle, road manners have vastly improved in permanent 4wd, but i miss my 2wd burnouts The only thing i do suggest is that you find a 1:003 high range from a 3 speed RR, if you are keeping the 4.7diffs, at least you can maintain highway speeds. The 1.2 is not bad but a bit on the low side, larger tyres may compensate. The other 2 ratios are only suitable for tractor like speeds and only suitable with higher diff ratios. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 The only thing i do suggest is that you find a 1:003 high range from a 3 speed RR, if you are keeping the 4.7diffs, at least you can maintain highway speeds. The 1.2 is not bad but a bit on the low side, larger tyres may compensate. The other 2 ratios are only suitable for tractor like speeds and only suitable with higher diff ratios.Grem well i'm going to stick with rwd for the road, its so much more fun i'm running 4.75 diffs and planning to put a disco lt230 in which is 1.2 ratio. that with 34" tyres should give a reasonable cruise i would think. if not theres always the overdrive option. cheers, Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Sorry, thought I'd done it but obviously not, here they are: And the pics of mine: LT230 2WD Conversion- Clicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hmmmmmmm can understand how it works, but have to say those parts dont look easy to make yourself! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 There are only two bits needed, and neither are rocket science: 1) Bit to lock the rear output shaft to the diff body, the kit does this by locking the rear gear to the diff spider but you could do it other ways. 2) Bearing to support the front output shaft, this doesn't have to be anything fancy as it never really takes any load. I don't know if welding a section of something from the spider to the rear output gear would be strong enough or if it needs the machined piece. Personally I don't think that piece is there for strength reasons as under load it will try to push the spider away from the rear shaft due to the shape of the teeth and I'm half expecting that to be a point of failure. A solid machined or welded-up piece would be better, I guess the only problem is the splines for the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 The ways its done here, is weld the spider to the carrier and then devise a way to support the front output via a machined piece containing a bearing or bush, either machine the splines down or find a bearing to suit. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hmmmmmmm can understand how it works, but have to say those parts dont look easy to make yourself!Jon Instead of making the fancy new bit which holds the crossshafts, you could weld up the existing cross shafts and spider gears except the front one, grind off the teeth of the front one and fix whats left to the front shaft. To do it better, you would need to make up a bush or bearing arangement to support that bit/end of the front output shaft. It would be a fairly straight forward job IMHO Regards Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Drove my Series 1 V8 on road in 4 wheel drive once for 4 miles (not long really I know). Never even noticed! Maybe the spinning rear wheels around the bends unwound the transmission Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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