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L19MUD

Rear storage ideas

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With my 90 re chassis getting very close to the body going back on I have started thinking about other changes I would like to make. One of those is what I do with rear storage

 

Currently I have an MDF box that I made many years ago that fits inbetween the seat boxes to the height of the bulkhead and takes up only half of the load bay so that the rearmost two seats can still be used. I have left the other two seats in with the idea being that if I ever wanted to use them I could take the box out. In reality this has NEVER happened so i could also free up that space if I wanted to.

 

I was wondering if I could find a top box that would fit snugly in the space that my current box does - has anyone done this? The box is ok but everything needs to be chucked on top of each other and I find when I take tools out with me if I am doing a long trip its a massive hassle finding things

Things I want to put in there

- shackles, snatch block and winch remote.

-Tow rope

- Jump leads

-Couple of ratchet straps (the 5 ton size)

-Socket set and spanners, screwdrivers, pliers etc. I may buy a set just to keep in the 90

-WD40, brake cleaner, 1l engine oil, 1l gear oil, 1l PS fluid 

 

Show me your solutions!

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I think you could draw some inspiration from looking at Mobile Storage Solutions website.  Lots of floor and side storage systems on there.

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4 hours ago, Snagger said:

I think you could draw some inspiration from looking at Mobile Storage Solutions website.  Lots of floor and side storage systems on there.

The biggest issue is that their drawers are all the full load bay. I never need 7 seats in the 90 but 4 is handy occasionally

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I acquired the box in the picture, it sits over one of the wheel boxes, its profiles to sit inside the curve of the body and capping so utilises the space really well i carry all sorts in it. I'll have a look see if i can work out who supplied it. Installed it temporarily about 2-3 years ago so see how i got on after a mate gave it to me.

Ha turns out they where born out of another forum...

https://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/new-storage-solution/

20191214_183732.thumb.jpg.f3d178db3f813d5cfcae4b2d1bb191c9.jpg

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1 hour ago, Maverik said:

I acquired the box in the picture, it sits over one of the wheel boxes, its profiles to sit inside the curve of the body and capping so utilises the space really well i carry all sorts in it. I'll have a look see if i can work out who supplied it. Installed it temporarily about 2-3 years ago so see how i got on after a mate gave it to me.

Ha turns out they where born out of another forum...

https://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/new-storage-solution/

20191214_183732.thumb.jpg.f3d178db3f813d5cfcae4b2d1bb191c9.jpg

Hmmm, that is an idea I had not thought about. Currently the box I have takes up half the load bay. If I used just the right hand (or left hand) seats in the back and put a box on one wheel arch I could get the entire load space back.

 

Thanks that is exactly why I posted for ideas!

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I've been through a lot of iterations for storage including roof shelves bulkhead boxes etc. Stumbled across this by accident but it works really well. MANTEC used to do a cage that did the same thing as the box, the camel 110 I had, had a similar storage compartment too.

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I wish the bloke mentioned in that link was still making them for £50 each!!

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Those wheel arch boxes are a neat use of space! Any idea if something similar is still made?

Here's a couple of ideas for you:

My 90 with an MSS storage chest. Very happy with the chest and it's certainly strong. It's never leaked despite the 90 living outside with no roof during the summer and is big enough to lay a large socket set flat inside, the downside being that you can't store fluids upright due to the height. In an ideal world, I would like a large T-shaped chest that rises to the tub cappings, is the depth of the MSS box allowing 2 x dickie seats at the rear but with the bottom section as a drawer to prevent loosing stuff into the bottom of the chest.

IMG_0869_zpspkcpeh4q.JPG.5ecb7ba6d83361795e40c202724c3bdf.JPG

 

And this is in my Dad's series 1 hybrid. The lower section, up to the wheel boxes is a fuel tank and the upper section has one large hinged lid with internal dividers that are removable.

20181004_172053.thumb.jpg.7410b488eb3eb61aadf40050f5d0918e.jpg

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When you re chassis, you have the perfect opportunity to do this:

large.floor.jpg.3503bb63bf5deccc0e61aef972704bff.jpg

 

Daan

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That is very tidy Daan , but your reputation for detail is legend :)

I do like snagger's solution for rear storage , very tidy too.

cheers

Steve b

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@Daan neat but only if you don't have a fuel tank in the way :rolleyes:

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Cheers, the OP does not have a fuel tank in the way.😃

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11 hours ago, Daan said:

When you re chassis, you have the perfect opportunity to do this:

large.floor.jpg.3503bb63bf5deccc0e61aef972704bff.jpg

 

Daan

That is a next level idea!!. What did you do with the floor supports that rest on the chassis? Just trying to visulise what it looks like under there with the body back on!

 

PS - I think you could improve on the routing of your towbar wiring!!

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Those “Bareboxes” (smutty name deliberate, he said 🤫) do work really well.  In the end, I did just bolt them down as I sold off the Trakkers folding seats (having used them on,y once in three years after the rebuild).  I used over-centre catches on the lids, like on the lids under the front seats of Defenders.  There just wasn’t enough benefit of having them on quick release fittings and keeping the seating option to be worth the modifications they’d have needed to their bases to fit around the cargo rail, seat hinges and left hand tub locker box.  They were well worth the cost.

Ironically, I intend to remove these too, at some point, as I want to turn the vehicle into less of a family and commuting compromise and more dedicated overlander for two occupants.  The idea is to remove the bins and seat and have a full width sleeping arrangement with new storage in various positions on and under the floor and two side cupboards above where the bins are now, suspended by the seat belt shoulder mounts and the body capping, high enough to allow my feet to lay underneath them in bed.  I still toy with the idea of a Marshall body, but I doubt I’d go that route - too heavy and cumbersome, even though the extra space would be beneficial.

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@Snagger I was about to ask if you would sell one of them if you are removing them and then saw your location! I may have a go at making one myself

 

 

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26 minutes ago, L19MUD said:

@Snagger I was about to ask if you would sell one of them if you are removing them and then saw your location! I may have a go at making one myself

 

 

It doesn’t make LR related things easy, that’s for sure!

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Thinking about making one myself, the only difficult part is getting the profile for the curve of the truck. Wonder if I can find a scrap side tub panel that I can butcher to make life easier.

Easiest way to build it would be with Ali sheet, Ali angle and then rivet together I guess

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L19mud if you cut two bits of hardwood to the profile you need and then clamp your aluminium between allowing for how much you want to fold over you will find it hammer forms easy enough with a bit of patience  I'm talking about the profile for the capping if you want to form the curve for the body curves a couple of bits of wood / angle iron in vice will suffice and then a length of half pipe to form the aluminium around for the curve regards Stephen 

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I cannot squeak about the Defender, but on the Series 2A 109 the famous 'barrel curve' only exists on the outside.
Inside the tub there is the straight but angled stiffener dropping down from the capping.

If you are being inspired by the earlier design, the latest mention I find by the maker dates from 2011, then perhaps a view of that product will be useful.
In the light of my earlier comments you will see why his design was all straight lines.

barebox1.jpg.63a79e60de1456d179bdc687de6ec113.jpg

I have also thought of using this as inspiration, but as I shall be installing one in a Truck Cab loadbay, with no tilt or hardtop, I will look to access it from alongside the vehicle, and thus put the hinge on the other side.
Appropriate security and weatherproofing measures will be added.

Regards.

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@David Sparkes I think the Defender does have a curve on the inside from memory but in all honesty i am probably overthinking things. Straight lines like that are going to lose such a small amount of space it is not worth worrying about.

 

I think I will copy that design and make mine the full length between the bulkhead and the rear of the body. The only downside of that will be access to the rear light wiring but given that i am redoing most of this anyway and it will only be a handful of bolts that hold it down I don't see that as a big issue

 

Pity the company no longer exists as they do look smart in powdercoat black

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20 hours ago, Daan said:

When you re chassis, you have the perfect opportunity to do this:

large.floor.jpg.3503bb63bf5deccc0e61aef972704bff.jpg

 

Daan

Damn. That's bad. You've given me an idea. Damn. Damn. Damn.

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Another possible idea. I liked the idea of the Mantec Load Luggas unfortunately there were three problems:

  1. I didn't want to pay for them
  2. They wouldn't fit my 110 with the L322 seats in the rear
  3. Mantec went bust

So I had a stock of small (20x20mm?) steel angle iron and fabricated my own. One piece of angle sat over the lip of the wheel arch, then there were a couple of uprights and another piece of angle across the top. The front is fixed into the spreader plate for the C pillar, the top rear corner has a stay across to where the rear bench seats originally bolted in (replaced with a rivnut rather than rivet) and I put a rivnut into the corner of the wheel-arch nearest the door opening to hold the rear corner down. On top of this I welded up two shelves (each half depth) that were a nice tight fit, just a couple of pieces of angle iron to sit inside the frame and then a couple of bits of box to go across. Topped off with 5mm ply - gaffer taped because I was in a rush but 4 years later it's still fine :ph34r:.

The height of the shelves were dictated by the TIG welder (tallest piece of equipment I might want to fit underneath) and the back of the seats when they were folded down. The purpose of the shelves allowed me to simply fold down the rear seats and put a king size mattress in there for camping. I was originally going to have hatches in the top to access the storage in the wheel arch but never got around to it. Actually using it I found it very useful being able to access it from underneath the shelves because shifting the mattress was a pain.

Unfortunately I don't have a decent photo of it and current modifications to the 110 mean that I need to modify the frames to fit in again, but you can just make out the steel frame above the electrical cable to the rear door.

DSC_0127.thumb.jpg.85f7f0a3106a2ea5f10fd5a957bb290e.jpg

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11 hours ago, L19MUD said:

That is a next level idea!!. What did you do with the floor supports that rest on the chassis? Just trying to visulise what it looks like under there with the body back on!

 

PS - I think you could improve on the routing of your towbar wiring!!

I made 2 diagonals which take the towbar loads and also support the floor. The winch sits on this as well. it got a bit bashed over the years as you can see.

The towbar wiring is temporary and cannot be improved on; tyraps and tank tape rules!

large.floor2.jpg.d6421572b279c4dcc5109f7de909c053.jpg

 

Daan

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