Keeper96 Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Hello, has anyone tried the buzzweld galv in one paint? if so how did they find it and any pitfalls to watch out for? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Yes, I like it, but have nothing to compare with. T wash first, then sprayed on with a Schultz gun. It's tough stuff, I've had screw drivers slip on to it and it's never marked You still see the galv imperfections through it, but I'm sure you could apply it thicker if needs be. I'll apply some wax as a sacrificial layer in the vulnerable areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeper96 Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 (edited) 11 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Yes, I like it, but have nothing to compare with. T wash first, then sprayed on with a Schultz gun. It's tough stuff, I've had screw drivers slip on to it and it's never marked You still see the galv imperfections through it, but I'm sure you could apply it thicker if needs be. I'll apply some wax as a sacrificial layer in the vulnerable areas. Thanks gazzar! looks good! is that heat shrink over your brake lines? thanks Edited January 24, 2020 by Keeper96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Yes. It's over cu ni pipes, so mostly cosmetic. It should allow me to see chafing and damage, though. Brass fittings, too. Hate rust. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Curious to see how it holds up. Both @Retroanaconda and I have painted bits of our vehicles with Buzzweld products (CIO) and they haven't lasted very well. James probably covered a higher mileage with higher salt but mine have probably been abused more and both I think were on the way out after a year. Can't speak for James but as I was rebuilding axles with lockers etc mine were stripped back to bare metal, primered and multiple layers of paint, either sprayed with their thinner or brushed on neat. All over the course of a nice warm week / weekend. Think I'll be going to tried and trusted POR15 now, but probably get stuff galvanised first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 5 hours ago, Ed Poore said: mine were stripped back to bare metal, primered and multiple layers of paint I thought CIO was specifically designed to go straight onto metal without a primer? POR15 likewise really doesn't stick to shiny / painted / primed surfaces but soaks into slightly rusty metal like the proverbial manure into a blanket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Adhesion has not been a problem, however it hasn’t held up to the road salt particularly well. This coming summer I’ll rub the rear crossmember back and repaint that area at least. The rest is annoying but not worth spending days underneath for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: I thought CIO was specifically designed to go straight onto metal without a primer? POR15 likewise really doesn't stick to shiny / painted / primed surfaces but soaks into slightly rusty metal like the proverbial manure into a blanket As James said, it's not that it's not stuck - just hasn't lasted anywhere near as well as I'd expect. It's almost as if the paint has worn off rather than fallen off. Ironically the bits that I took the rust off have held up better and the bits (due to inaccessibility) that didn't get a thorough as cleaning there's rust coming through from underneath. It's OK though I've still got 5.99mm of steel to get through on that cross member . Hopefully in the imminent future I'll be picking up the Sandringham and then sometime this year I'm tempted to take the body off the 110, build a rear winch mount and get the chassis galvanised before dropping everything back on. Bonus is most of the vehicle has come apart in the not too distant past so should be fairly straight forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Are GIO and CIO the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeper96 Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Hmm not looking to good really, looks like I’ll be sending it back to buzzweld.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 On 2/4/2020 at 9:08 AM, Gazzar said: Are GIO and CIO the same? Well the "IO" part stands for "In One" which suggests direct to metal rather than over a primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 You are supposed to be able to paint CIO (Chassis In One) over RCP (Rust Control Primer), I wouldn't have said it's a bad paint system just (in my opinion) not all it's hyped up to be. The bits that have worn off mine have exposed the RCP underneath which has appears to have adhered absolutely fine. I suppose it depends a bit on how you look after your vehicle / what it's used for. You've also got to bear in mind that James and I probably give the vehicles a harder life than most - he racks up some serious mileage in Scotland and the amount of salt on the roads there tends to destroy most things. I rack up a pretty hefty mileage across salty environments but also through mud and carp (literally) being in a farming area but it only gets washed when it rains or goes through a river. In recent memory I think mine's been washed twice, 4 or 5 years ago I pressure washed the underside to clean off all the mud and peat from being stuck in a Scottish bog so that a friend could fabricate and weld on a new cross-member and I took pity on the welder. The second time it was the bridal vehicle a couple of years ago for a friend's wedding so it got a full valet for that. Other than that I've not touched it, not wax-oiled it, not cleaned it. So probably not the best example to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 16 minutes ago, Ed Poore said: You are supposed to be able to paint CIO (Chassis In One) over RCP (Rust Control Primer), I wouldn't have said it's a bad paint system just (in my opinion) not all it's hyped up to be. That is my view of it too. The number of people raving about how great and long lasting it is within a few months of it appearing was hilarious. It was just another one what I call fan-boy products. I personally haven't used it, but it doesn't seem to have proved itself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeper96 Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Well I’ve got it now and it’s not a massive hardship to repaint over the galv occasionally i suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 On 2/6/2020 at 3:02 PM, Keeper96 said: Well I’ve got it now and it’s not a massive hardship to repaint over the galv occasionally i suppose Out of interest ... how did you get on with it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeper96 Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Anderzander said: Out of interest ... how did you get on with it ? I haven’t used it yet, I’m still in the welding phase but the 90’s in the garage at my parents 🙄😬 I’ve got a tin of Marine container paint that the shot blaster who did my chassis put me on to, he uses it for A, containers that he refurbished for the local port authority and B, the backs of transit type tippers, he showed me one he uses for carting gravel about and it looked brand new after 8 months of all sorts being piled in and tipped out so I’m thinking of trying that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Any more details on the marine paint? If you get a chance some piccies of the tipper would be good, piccies are always nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeper96 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 It’s in the garage at my parents, the maker is tor, who I believe are a local company. unfortunately the tipper is nothing exciting, just a standard transit, not lr based! 2 hours ago, Ed Poore said: Any more details on the marine paint? If you get a chance some piccies of the tipper would be good, piccies are always nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Sorry should have said - more interested in the paint work if as you say it's survived tipper abuse for 8 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 I stick to the tried and test formula of: Etch primer Marine Primer Agricultural/Industrial gloss pain (thinned down and applied in multiple layers) Morrison's Anchor Wax - this product is amazing - works it's way behind rust then forms a seal. It may be that I have in the past added 10% spent motor oil to this, although I annot condone that practice as its not environmentally friendly. I hot was my chassis off every couple of years, let it dry, then air blast the whole thing, to remove any remaining crud/water; then apply the (w)Anchor Wax in layers over about 4 hours. My vehicle is a daily driver and 27 years old. Original chassis, original sills (mostly) One thing I would say, is that Anchor Wax burns like a candle. You need to weld with an extra body doing fire watch (using the air gun to put the flames out) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeper96 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 1 hour ago, Ed Poore said: Sorry should have said - more interested in the paint work if as you say it's survived tipper abuse for 8 years. Only 8 months Ed! But it’s still impressive how fresh it looks given the use. after the lockdown I’ll nip up and get some photos for you mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Teaches me to read things in a rush. Did think it was rather impressive! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 On 2/4/2020 at 1:08 PM, Gazzar said: Are GIO and CIO the same? No. GIO is formulated with etching ability, while CIO is best used on light surface rust or primed surfaces like their RCP. They say not to apply CIO to clean metal if avoidable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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