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Series 3 parking brake issues


German Shepherd
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It's a transmission brake - this system only holds the vehicle if both rear wheels are on the ground with intact diff and half shafts etc.

Hence the procedure for jacking the vehicle for wheel changing of locking in four wheel drive or chocking the other rear wheel . I think a few pictures of your rebuild are in order ...part of the unwritten forum charter I think :).

cheers

Steve b  

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Thanks or the reply Steve, can we put this down to me being a novice with Land Rover braking systems, or alternatively, just thick, which ever fits. The good news is that after adjusting up the transmission drum and lever all is working fine 🤗

As for a couple of photos of the rebuild, these were taken last summer, we are a bit further forward now, but I am struggling to upload the newer pictures.

 

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That looks nice and tidy , are they new springs and if so which supplier did you use ?

The top steering link from the box to the relay is not quite right , the relay arms should have an angular difference of about 85deg. I think - it's in the workshop manual . Winding out the TRE's on that link and moving the top arm on the relay will rectify it . The drag link from the relay to the axle looks about right . Make sure the steering box is centred when you start the adjustment .

cheers

Steve b

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No problem , always a pleasure to see another series being given some meaningful TLC :). If you feel like posting a rebuild thread I'm sure I'm not the only one that would follow it .

Just as an aside there is a '75 series 3 88 soft top petrol with a galv. chassis in a nearby garage showroom with a price tag of £27k , not sure it's worth quite that much but worth bearing in mind for insurance etc. even while building .

cheers

Steve b 

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On 1/24/2020 at 10:21 PM, steve b said:

That looks nice and tidy , are they new springs and if so which supplier did you use ?

The top steering link from the box to the relay is not quite right , the relay arms should have an angular difference of about 85deg. I think - it's in the workshop manual . Winding out the TRE's on that link and moving the top arm on the relay will rectify it . The drag link from the relay to the axle looks about right . Make sure the steering box is centred when you start the adjustment .

cheers

Steve b

81 degrees.  With the steering central, the upper arm should point straight across the chassis while the lower arm is parallel to the steering arm on the far swivel, making a parallelogram of the chassis, axle and two steering arms, so the steering behaves consistently across the range (well, as much as the nature of how the fork and main nut behave inside the steering box).

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I got the wrong parallelogram - the top arm is forward to match the way the drop arm from the steering box hangs forward from vertical with the steering box in the mid position.  If the drop arm is vertical at mid lock, then you run out of travel turning left as the drop arm hits the foot well.

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13 hours ago, lo-fi said:

Worth adjusting the rods to the correct length too. Its never "right", being something built to tolerances even a stone wall builder would laugh at, but gets you close to within an inch or so. 

Yes - without starting from nominal specs, you don’t have much chance, but you do need to fine tune it from there to suit the highly individual dimensions of your specific vehicle!

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