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Polly123

New p38 wont start.

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I realise this has come up time and again and i think I've read nearly all the posts on non starting immobiliser issues but I'm still stuck.

I recently bought a nice p38 it started and drove well but the wipers were u/s, the tailgate didnt unlock and the remote didnt work but it locked and unlocked the car with the key in the lock.

After disconnecting  the battery I fixed the wipers with a secondhand motor but the car wont start and I'm getting the engine immobiliser press remote msg but it doesn't work as I said so I have tried putting the code in via turning the key in the drivers door as the previous owner showed me with the key code but it still wont start, I have tried a few times now and am aware that it could time out if done to many times but still to no avail. Also the rear doors are now locked and cannot be unlocked by hand.

I'm located in southend Essex and the car is an N reg 1994/5 4.6 HSE.

Any help would be great.

Cheers Steve.

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Steve

Welcome

If the rear doors are locked and cannot me unlocked by hand it implies that it is deadlocked. This in turn implies that the immobiliser is still activated. When I changed the engine on mine the battery was connected and disconnected many times without affecting the the immoboliser. My remote is broken so can only use the key. I think you will need to persevere with the key in the door.

On that subject I had to use the E/kA code on a Disco 2 that I have bought for spares to repair my Green one. I fiddled about with the code for a while until out of frustration I stuck the key in the ignition and it started on the button. What I noted from the key turns was that on every one there was a click as the locks either attemted to lock or unlock the car depending on the key direction. I have heard previously and that was borne out yesterday when the code could not be input easiliy. On the age of the car the chances are that the locks are worn and sometimes throwing the lock one side or the other is just not quite good enough to register the turn.

Let us know how you get on.

 

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Thanks for the reply,

Yes will just keep trying. The fact the rear doors are staying locked is a bit confusing as they were opening with the key.

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The alarm on your car has armed, possibly due to disconnecting the battery. Usually it's fine, but sometimes it can cause some problems.

With the alarm armed, the key will only mechanically open (or close) the drivers door, central locking and engine immobilisation will not respond. You need to use the EKA to disarm, when done correctly on the last turn (to unlock) all the doors will unlock and you'll be able to start te engine. As Simon says, make sure every turn is deliberate, with enough time in between for the microswitches to register the movement. Worse case you have one or more failed microswitches in the lock, and the EKA isn't being registered.

If the passive immobiliser is turned off, you're fine with using only the key once it's started once, until the alarm gets armed again.

Filip

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IIRC, it's been a few years, the indicator repeaters in the dash display flash on every successful lock movement.
I say 'flash', they illuminate once, then go dark until the next lock movement is registered.
Viewing at an angle, and through the tinted glass, I found it difficult to see reliably if they illuminated.

If I understand correctly, the key will open the drivers door, and you can switch the ignition on.
Do this, and wind the drivers door window fully down.
Now vacate the car, close the door and lock it with the key.

Now start the EKA, with your head in the window opening.
Make deliberate actions and ensure the key is fully turned.
Between each turn, restore the key to the vertical position and pause there before turning the key again.
Count out loud when the light illuminates; it's even better if there is a second person with you to confirm the correct code is being entered.

Failing microswitches are common, the lock, with the switches, might seem expensive, but there are only two means of entry (until you start breaking glass, or forcing the window frame), the remote and the drivers door lock. If a microswitch fails the remote cannot be reset, so access is wholly dependant on the single mechanical lock.
If (when) the security system coughs, a failed microswitch completely buggers you up.

If a microswitch fails, buy and fit a new lock.
This week, not when you get paid, or when there is time in your schedule, but now.
Any other course of action means your are playing russian roulette. You can only get away with it for so long.

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Thanks for the replys,

When doing the eka with the key the last time we did look at the indicator repeater light on the wing and we did it as you said but halfway though the sequence the lights didnt flash but we carried on regardless so I'm now hoping this is why it failed. I think I will keep trying for a while to see if I can get a perfect result.

If I buy a new lock can it just be fitted or will it need to be done by someone who can set the codes?

Steve.

 

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3 hours ago, Polly123 said:

If I buy a new lock can it just be fitted or will it need to be done by someone who can set the codes?

Locks carry no electronics, just the mechanical latch and the microswitches, so yes, it can just be fitted.
'Just' might be a little misleading, I recall having some difficulty in manouvering the new one into place, but otherwise it's just fit and connect up.
As always, take notes about where the wires went before you pull them off.

If your wing indicator repeaters flashed then your car is slightly different to mine, perhaps because its a 4.6 not a 2.5.
Again, IIRC, you can stop the EKA process part way through and it doesn't count as a failed attempt, which is useful wrt the totting up procedure of too many failed attempts causing a lock-out.

Regards.

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Ok I'm still persevering  with the eka with little success, when entering the code there are no lights flashing on the dash but the indicators are flashing 3 times with each turn of the key also I have noticed that the message "key in ignition" is on even after I have removed the key.

I would like to check I have the correct code for my car but do not know the supplying dealer so would any main dealer be able to tell me the code?

 it looks more likely I will have to call out a local RR specialist to come out and reset it for me.

Steve.

Edited by Polly123

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Steve

Any dealer will give it to you but you will need the V5 and proof of identity with the same address and the V5 before they will. 

Sometimes the key and the ecu can get out of sync and will require putting it on the the computer to sort that out. I have considered getting the imobiliser disconnected.

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3 hours ago, Polly123 said:

... when entering the (eka) code there are no lights flashing on the dash but the indicators are flashing 3 times with each turn of the key ...

I thought that indicators flashing 3 times was one of the visual signals that the car was locked.
The implication here is that the car doesn't know you are trying the enter the EKA; rather the car is seeing you simply locking the car.

I have forgotten how the car knows you are entering the EKA, do you have a hard copy of the Owners handbook? Or the RAVE documentation?

I would expect any Dealer to charge you to supply the factory EKA, but it is only valid for the original BECM, the factory EKA will not be valid if the BECM has been replaced.
I do not know the capabilities of modern diagnostic equipment; if you don't get a clear positive steer on here then you will have to ask your local specialists about the capabilities of the equipment they use.

Regards.

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47 minutes ago, David Sparkes said:

I thought that indicators flashing 3 times was one of the visual signals that the car was locked.
The implication here is that the car doesn't know you are trying the enter the EKA; rather the car is seeing you simply locking the car.

 

David

That would imply as I have suggested above that the coputer coding between the ECU and the key is out of sync. 

Dealers will not normally charge for the EKA code. Mine doesn't.

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Thanks for all the replys,

One other thing I have noticed is I haven't once heard the alarm go off, I assume it will have some sort of  audio warning.

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12 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

David
...
Dealers will not normally charge for the EKA code. Mine doesn't.

That's a pleasant change.
Just one thing to confirm please, do you mean the actual LR franchised Dealer, or a private specialist, as say DLS is, in this part of the world? To me, Dealers means the LR Franchised establishments, with posh showrooms and free drinks with biscuits to support.

In my early 38A days (1999+2) I was active in the 38A private owners world (it was quite small) and I found that the Nottingham dealer, amongst others, didn't charge.
Later on it seemed, through Forum and Mailing List reports, that Dealers were charging.

Perhaps now, with the 38A world diminishing, and most of them being in private hands rather than being funded by Business expenses, Dealers find it a small loss leader worth incurring to encourage owners to keep in contact.

Anyway, thanks for the update.

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I needed the EKA code for my old Defender and went to my LR franchised dealer, Guy Salmon in Sheffield. They were very happy to give me it for free. In fact they supplied me with a printed list of useful stuff including axle numbers (and a cup of coffee).

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I emailed my proof of ownership and my proof of ID to Taggarts in Darnley, Glasgow when I lost my key for the disco and needed a replacement, (done under insurance so dealer did not make any money) and they emailed me the EKA code back very quickly despite saying that it may take a couple of days.

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