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So here are some updates from  my end .

Rebuilt all the axles 

All the axles have been rebuild and painted I took care lubing and greasing all the bearings and pressing in all the new races and seals

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Rebuilt all the Drum 

Brake drums are rebuilt the britpart kit has some horrible brake adjusters on the. The original where stil functional so i opted the leave them on we see what how it holds up changed all the shoes and put the top spring for some reason they where all missing from mine :/.

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Received the remote brake booster and created a mount

Bought a remote booster for my drum setup this is something the i had done on an MGB owned in the family and it is an amazing upgrade for 68 pounds it also negates the need to change pedal box and cut the fender also I the series 3 booster is impossible to find and ugly under the bonnet. I can retain the stock master and pass 1 line to the booster and connect the other pipe work to the booster . Being and 200tdi I have vacuum pump to use out of the box. I have not seen this done before so I will report back on it once I use it on the road.

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Cleaned and Repacked the springs with grease and Teflon liners.

I added custom cut Teflon liners to help with seizing.

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Mounted the power steering 

P38 box painted and mounted in place at slight angle to gain the max spring movement now need to make a new track rod.

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Fabricated the new engine mounts to take the Opel Omega Diesel Hydro elastic mount :)

 

 

This the my proudest edition . I hated the vibrations from the 200tdi when test drove the land rover prior to restoration. I also drove and 200tdi defender with stock mounts and it still feels unnecessarily agriculture. I know its a series but standard have changes and parts are cheaper. I want searching around from modern hydro mounts. Found BMW , OPEL and American automakers make round simple mounts for modern cars the rest make those wired shape hanger mounts.

For the price i bought OPEL OMEGA Diesel hydro mounts the opel omega diesel is around 200kg dry so the 200tdi will be fine on them . The shocks are slightly taller and much wider then the stock mounts so . After some considerations in decided the modify the left mount and fabricate and new bracket for the left. I also decided to move the drive train 5.5 cm forward then the original series mounts. This makes the engine very close to the radiator but opens up the opportunity to mount the LT77 on the on the stock gearbox rail with out cutting and moving it. 

This also make the gear knob move very close the the series original position . I will converting the control to work like series to preserve and hide its a modern-er drive train :)

 

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AC out.

 

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You won't regret the engine mount upgrade,  I converted the gearbox mounts to the later square softer mounts and just that made a huge difference on my 200, I've got a plan to look at the engine side at some point. 

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Do you mean the 300Tdi mounts, Mav?  The square mounts that fit directly in place of the 200Tdi rubbers are Series III diesel mounts, and may be softer than faulty 200Tdi units, but that is because most of the pattern and even Genuine Parts 200 mounts are made from the wrong grade rubber.  Charles Emberton sells decent Bearmach mounts, and though they took a long time to come through and were twice the price, the mounts I got from Glencoyne are softer still.  I already had the square mounts (genuine) on my 109 when I fit the Tdi, and went through several brands until I got a set of the same Bearmach mounts from Glencoyne.  I foolishly omitted to replace the transmission mounts, but even so, the transformation was enormous.  Richard at Glencoyne changed supplier to this softer spec since then, so I expect good results from moving his old mounts to the transmission and using his new ones for the engine.

Alain, great work so far, especially the brake booster, which seems a smart way of keeping work and costs down.  The 109 system would have got you dual lines, as well as the booster, which is a considerable safety benefit, but I can see why you went the way you did.  Can I recommend you fit a level sensor to the fluid reservoir, since a leak will fail the whole system?  The sensing cap from a late Defender, Discovery or RRC might fit, or it may be possible to graft the sensor to the old cap.  Failing that, a new reservoir with sensor would be prudent.  I would try to add more gussets to the fabricated engine mounts - you don’t want them bending or cracking.  
 

Keep it coming!

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1 hour ago, Snagger said:

 The sensing cap from a late Defender, Discovery or RRC might fit,

Yea nice work... About sensing reservoir caps, they are (happily) the same on pretty much everything I've tried so far from peugeot, citroen ford and mercedes (passenger + heavy goods) from the 80s-90s ; all of 'em fit defender brake reservoirs :)

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all thank you for all the great comments. Haven't posted for while due to work and family. I have been hauling forward working evening and weekend to get more progress done on the Landy .

The engine is mounted as far forward as is possible to keep the Series look in the cabin I am sucker for sleepers and things that look original but are infact moderner

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On 5/10/2020 at 8:32 AM, Snagger said:

Do you mean the 300Tdi mounts, 

Sorry only just seen this, yes the same mounts that are used on everything post 200tdi.

On page 20 of my build thread near the bottom, modified a bracket from a TDCI in the end as it was the cheapest option.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all sorry for the long delay in posting life got in the way.

Dashboard :

had and old cooker hood out of stainless steel cut it down to size and punched 4 square holes for american style old ac vents  to try and keep it looking as authentic as possible.

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Added a gauge cluster from a audi from the 80s to monitor some extra stats on 200tdi and will be building a nice enclosure for it to look authentic aswell.

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Turbo :

Bought a CHRA cartridge for the Garrett T2. The original one was literally jammed in sides for quite  a while and was being driven as a 200di. The shipper sent me the item with no packaging and this happened :( il have to wait for the return and refund.

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After 3 weeks bought another and arrived safe and sound and installed.

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Steering :

As shown before I deleted the series steering setup and went for a custom simplified and powered option.

This is a Puma column mated to a disco 2 half shaft with p38 end UJ to a p38 powersteering box.

It is now all aligned and firmly bolted in place look very neat and factory

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As you may know with this setup the track rods needs to be modified. I bought 2 identical defender lower rods and cut 1 up to make it fight the length between the pit-man arm and the lower connection on the swivel housing.

I wanted this to be strong so cut the tube tacked a piece of round bar in welded between them and added an outer pipe to further strengthen it.

 

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Movement :

Even dry steering feels amazing considering the original setup. the Pit- man arm enough clearance both from the tire and spring so should be all good to go :)

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On 4/17/2020 at 2:20 AM, alaincam said:

Hi all,

I have a question with and LT77 & lt230 plus out of defender and a stock series diff what will be the final top speed of this set up at 5th ?

 

 

Hi, nice build, Cool PAS setup 

I'm running LT77S + LT230 with series diff. in my 109" after 300 TDI.

With series 4,7 diffs. the 1.2 ratio is no good, to low. i change to 1.0 ratio from a RRC auto LT230 that made the trick. i'm cruising at 100/110 km/t and have room for more. Gives me at very low Low gear, perfect for slow off road in a nice truck.

so with 1.2 ratio and 3.5 diff. you are fine.

Remenber to fit Free wheel hubs or alter the LT230 to 2x4/4x4 ashcroft has the kit. 

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On 9/17/2020 at 12:44 PM, seriebil.dk said:

Hi, nice build, Cool PAS setup 

I'm running LT77S + LT230 with series diff. in my 109" after 300 TDI.

With series 4,7 diffs. the 1.2 ratio is no good, to low. i change to 1.0 ratio from a RRC auto LT230 that made the trick. i'm cruising at 100/110 km/t and have room for more. Gives me at very low Low gear, perfect for slow off road in a nice truck.

so with 1.2 ratio and 3.5 diff. you are fine.

Remenber to fit Free wheel hubs or alter the LT230 to 2x4/4x4 ashcroft has the kit. 

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Daan’s right, that needs a build thread! She’s a beauty! :wub: 

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Hi Everyone,

Thank you for the massive support and knowledge honestly the stuff I learn from the forum is amazing.

I will try to document better and in more chronological order as I inch closer the driving it :)

Sound Proofing Projects

I am going heavy on the sound proofing that stuff you see on the bulk head is heavy  Self Adhesive Bitumen. With air pockets and heat shielding. This will be 1 of the many steps to making this series easier to live with audibly. The sheets are 0.5 mm thick and the drone from the panels has completely been eradicated. this will be applied on both sides of the cab. The inside will get second layer of sound deadening foam and then heavy auto carpet to seal it all off.

I will be creating a custom top end cover similar to what land rover did on 200 and 300 tdi to reduce the tappet noise stay tuned.

The 200tdi is hydro mounts from an Opel Omega which I am hoping will cure the chassis rattling so much.

I will also shield the tunnel with heavy fire resistant sound dedner from the bottom the LT77 is way less noisy that the series crash box but while i'm here il go the extra mile.

It will never be a Honda. But wont stop me from trying to make it as close the Puma defender levels as possible and lower price points :)

The Bitumen sheets cost me 30 pounds per 5m which is quite a good deal .

Ancillaries :

 I installed all the pedals and supporting systems from the left you can see the remove brake booster neatly hidden away under the wing. I fit new master for both clutch and brake and made sure I greased the boot well for them to last a bit longer. In the centre you can see the puma steering column and the ASTRA/GM TRW Electric power steering pump. I made up a custom mount for it and as whole wanted to keep all the fluids on 1 side of the land rover. It has rubber mounts to keep it from vibrating the cab and keep it quite when it is at full chat. I order custom high pressure hose to mate the P38 box to the pump should be arriving soon the return is standard AN fittings and pipe

 

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AC & Electric fan 

Being a series the radiator space is quite limited especially with an inter cooler for the turbo and the large air box for the snorkel. So some head banging is required to fit everything ergonomically cause if need to service it il be the one cursing at the bad design. I drilled new holes for the radiator to mount it as far forward as i can while giving enough clearance from the spinning pulleys and the engine rocking. The condenser I chose to utilise for my DIY system comes from a VW POLO mk4 it comes complete with the drier so once less thing to source cost me 50 euros plus shipping. I had aluminium box channels make 2 brakes for the sop and mounted right up cleanly and securely . It has enough movement front and back for the engine movements without interfering with the radiator. 

After fitting the condenser it has become apparent that to fit decent sized electric fan the inter cooler has to be relocated or replaced by a slimmer unit. I will be investing what options i have for this.

As far as the AC goes it pretty straight forward . The only questions mark is the fitting AUTO AC fittings are **** show of number and confusing standards and my Nissan Style Compressor and  VW condensor seem to have conflicting sizes

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so I and try to see what options i have.

 

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It’s not an ideal solution, but given the nature of Maltese roads, high speed is not going to be a huge necessity, but acceleration will.  With that in mind, I think you would suffer very little by deleting the intercooler and reducing the fuel boost a little to match (ie clear the resulting black smoke) if fitting an intercooler looks too difficult, but you be better off with a 1.4 LT230, rather than the 1.22. Given your location, I think you’d benefit more from the aircon than the little extra performance of the intercooler.

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On 9/21/2020 at 8:52 AM, Snagger said:

It’s not an ideal solution, but given the nature of Maltese roads, high speed is not going to be a huge necessity, but acceleration will.  With that in mind, I think you would suffer very little by deleting the intercooler and reducing the fuel boost a little to match (ie clear the resulting black smoke) if fitting an intercooler looks too difficult, but you be better off with a 1.4 LT230, rather than the 1.22. Given your location, I think you’d benefit more from the aircon than the little extra performance of the intercooler.

Given the maltese temperatures, I think removing the Intercooler is a very bad idea. 

This subject has been done to death, and my opinion has not changed; Fit it, I reckon.

 

Daan

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Hi all Update #6

After much deliberation I am going to retain the inter cooler and camp up with a less then ideal but functional wing mount. I am ware that defender have the heater matrix under the wing so I cut a square hole in the wing

Intercooler

Mounted the inter cooler and close i could to the side wall of the inner wing bought an aluminium cover and called it done haha. Being that the inter-cooler only need to function when the car is moving I think this will not effect much if it still a problem i will mount a fan under there as well but only if needed.

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Electric Fan 

Also high on my agenda was installing some sort electric fan the 200tdi belt driven fan had to be deleted due to the size constraint. The vehicle had some weird 2 blade electric fan i could not understand how it worked but i deleted it as it was to big and to useless. I had some fans from Peugeot lying around and 1 of them fit the bill. and fabricated a crude but sturdy mount for it and it work very well and shift air like crazy at full chat. If needs be il add a shroud to help direct the air better.

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As a side note I am trying to make the units attach to the body mostly so if I ever need to take the car apart for maintenance I dont need to disconnect anything just unbolt

Powersteering

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Also the power steering conversion is done my custom High pressure hose arrived not its a matter of bying E-PAS fluid and testing it out il report back.

Cu and thank you

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Will when i have two mondays in a week, make build tread of my 109" 😉

 

Fit the Intercooler, i'm with Daan. I had same issue with space, as my PAS is placed in the original series location, througth the chassis. pushing the radiator to the other side. but have no AC.

i ended up fitting a Intercooler of a SAAB 900 petrol, a bit bigger and it has inlet/outlet in the same end and fits between the series wings without cutting. made up a airduct in front, fitted a SPAL fan between the intercooler and the radiator. SPAL makes some really slim fans, maybe a way for you ?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Lads

COVID Lock Downs again a lot of progress has been done getting closer to MOT and first drive :

Hand Brake :

I am 6 ft 1 and the hand brake was in the most inconvenient and unsafe place imaginable. Also the range rover LT77 is the later cable operated set. I canalised the Hand Brake lever from a P38 and moved it to a more familiar place and I can tell you it works a great i reinforced the area with extra aluminium so it wont flex.

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Indicators :

My 2a has the self cancelling set as i discovered all the ruber wheels eventually crumble. I found that a large grommets fits and works well

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Rear Light Assemblies :

Rear Light assemblies installed

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Heater / AC

Heater pumping cut and test fitted nicely

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Fan and Condenser 

Test fit the setup and everything fits with enough clearance

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Dual Battery

Got heavy gauge wires made up to join the batteries still need to but a deep cycle battery that fits in ther series box.

I also bought a marine busbar with modern blade fuses for the entire rewiring job makes the job neater and easier to diagnose and less prone to fire.

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Sound Proofing

In my quest to make the series noise free I has till now done this :

1 hydro engine mounts from an opel omega

2 Butemin noise killer on both side of the bulkhead

3 Sound insulating foam 1 cm on the inside of the bulkhead

4 carpeting on all interior lower surfaces

The journey will continue

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Lights :

I love the old look of the series and visually it will look the part but I am like LED light aswell and i am very used to the white light they emmit. For me this a safety feature and does not detract from the design.

i shopped around for something that made most sense. There are a lot of cheap led lights out there make sure you buy at the right price. Most i have seen are the round DRL type which are cheapest. I went for a more expensive set and could not be happier with the amount of light they give and fitment all while using less light the the original halogens installed.

Had to cut most of the lower inner guard out for the power setting setup i will in the future manufacture a cover for it but for now it will do.

I have included a video for you see the light cycling i also add a small capacitor the DRL relay to delay the colour change makes it look "AUDI" like.

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Cheers :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

All wings installed !

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So Engine started and she lives !! did not need to bled of primed first pull and she went.

Belt setup working fine and good and powersteering operational and feels like a fiat 500 hahah

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Had to change a big my intercooler position from the wing top to the side but it seams to work wellI will create a guard to stop rocks from hitting it. also if the air flow is not sufficient i will install and electric fanIMG_20201106_185932.jpg.ac354cbd495218f06054eec4a9d9b467.jpg

Started building the dashpanel now

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