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Removing plastic coating


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I have been working on cleaning up various items ready for galvanising. Things that have been powder coated come off quite well with a combination of a flap wheel and a wire cup brush.

 

Plastic coating on my front and rear light guards however is a nightmare. Friction melts it but does not remove it, the gas torch melts it but does not allow me to remove it before it cools back on. Am I best just chucking them in a bonfire and fishing them out afterwards?

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Appreciating it's not the most environmental solution, a bonfire in an oil drum has always worked for me. Similarly a blowtorch and a scraper might do the job. You could also try clutch fluid applied with a paint brush and left for a while, it's performance is dependent on the quality of the powder coating though.

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Warping them is what I was wrried about. They are the standard slat type front grilles so I could replace those if it failed (but would be stuck with them not being galvanised) the rear ones are cage type from an unknown source and I want to keep them so I don't have to drill extra mounting holes

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You could possibly put them in the freezer so the plastic goes very brittle and shatters or breaks off with a robust scraper not tried it myself I just know most plastic doesn't  like extreme cold regards Stephen 

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20 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

You could possibly put them in the freezer so the plastic goes very brittle and shatters or breaks off with a robust scraper not tried it myself I just know most plastic doesn't  like extreme cold regards Stephen 

This could be worth a try on the rear light guards.I will grab one of the small ones tonight and try it. Suppose it will make a change getting in trouble putting things in the freezer as opposed to parts to clean in the dishwasher or pistons in the oven to expand and get the gudgeon pins in!

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22 hours ago, L19MUD said:

Warping them is what I was wrried about. They are the standard slat type front grilles so I could replace those if it failed (but would be stuck with them not being galvanised) the rear ones are cage type from an unknown source and I want to keep them so I don't have to drill extra mounting holes

I put some slat type ones in my old burning drum with no warping issues, it was a pretty hot fire too. They looked like these ones:

https://shop.challenger4x4.com/front-lamp-guards-for-land-rover-series-and-land-rover-defender-3112-p.asp

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22 minutes ago, Boris113 said:

I put some slat type ones in my old burning drum with no warping issues, it was a pretty hot fire too. They looked like these ones:

https://shop.challenger4x4.com/front-lamp-guards-for-land-rover-series-and-land-rover-defender-3112-p.asp

Mine are a bit sturdier than those so should be fine. This type https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Light-Guard-Set-BRITPART-Land-Rover-Defender-VIN-2A622424-STC53161-/371410722343

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I did buy some really nasty paint stripper off eBay that claims to strip *some* powder-coat... didn't touch the bull bars on the ambulance but holy hell was it evil stuff to handle/smell!

I can look out the name if you are getting desperate :lol:

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As long as it isn't aluminum, mix up a batch of caustic soda. That stuff will strip off the coating. Just be very careful with your hands, face and eyes. 

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Since you are having parts galvanised please learn from my experience.  Make a note of every threaded hole, and the thread type/size before sending to be dipped.  I didn't, and have spent a lot of time re-tapping blocked threads, some of which are SAE/Imperial and others are metric.  The only way to tell, definitively, is to measure the bolt that came out.  Even the LR Parts catalogue is frequently wrong.  I have SAE and metric tap and die sets up to 1/2" and 12mm, but have had to buy a number of each for larger sizes.  

Sorry I can't help with your cleaning problem, but best of luck with your galvanising.

Mike

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18 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I did buy some really nasty paint stripper off eBay that claims to strip *some* powder-coat... didn't touch the bull bars on the ambulance but holy hell was it evil stuff to handle/smell!

I can look out the name if you are getting desperate :lol:

I sorted the rear lights with a combination of a scraper, the blow torch and the shot blast cabinet. The front ones are getting the bonfire treatment and I will revert back!

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11 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:

Since you are having parts galvanised please learn from my experience.  Make a note of every threaded hole, and the thread type/size before sending to be dipped.  I didn't, and have spent a lot of time re-tapping blocked threads, some of which are SAE/Imperial and others are metric.  The only way to tell, definitively, is to measure the bolt that came out.  Even the LR Parts catalogue is frequently wrong.  I have SAE and metric tap and die sets up to 1/2" and 12mm, but have had to buy a number of each for larger sizes.  

Sorry I can't help with your cleaning problem, but best of luck with your galvanising.

Mike

Thanks - good point. Luckily it is only the tree sliders which have a couple of threaded holes, the rest just take nuts and bolts throguh drilled holes

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  • 2 weeks later...

Problem solved... With fire! Didn't warp and I just cleaned them up with the pressure washer and then shot blaster. One here still needs to go through the shot blast cabinet 

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