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No drive in working differential!!


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Hello

I drove my 1995 300dti 110  through a deep river but nothing to serious only came up the the top of the wheel, i didn't stop and kept a constant pace. the river was only two meters wide. for this i selected high range locked diff ( right choice, maybe, maybe not). When getting out on the other side with no issues i proceeded to put the car back into working diff, and this is when i had the issue! I could select the right ratio however when trying to pull away it made a horrible grinding sound and i had no drive what so ever (absolutely nothing) put it back into locked diff and i have drive. so my problem is i am now stuck in locked diff, both high and low ratio work fine. Both high and low in working differential both slot to where they should however when selecting any gear i have the grinding sound!!

any ideas on what the problem might be???

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Could be a drive spline stripped, the bolt on covers on the end of the axle.  Jack each corner with it in gear, and diff locked, and if you can spin the wheel with some associated noise, the it's prob just the cover that's stripped.

also check the diff lock lever mech isn't seized , and it's not "between" locked / unlocked 

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42 minutes ago, Yostumpy said:

Could be a drive spline stripped, the bolt on covers on the end of the axle.  Jack each corner with it in gear, and diff locked, and if you can spin the wheel with some associated noise, the it's prob just the cover that's stripped.

also check the diff lock lever mech isn't seized , and it's not "between" locked / unlocked 

This.

I suspect it's a selection problem.

 

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Find some nice level ground and select low box and unlock the diff lock and seclect first gear have someone to take a look at the propshaft and see if any of them are turning. If one is turning then the problem will be with that axle, it could be a drive member, cv joint or a diff 

Edited by 300tditaffy
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11 hours ago, western said:

sometimes you have to reverse to make the diff lock disengage & put the warning light out.

I’ve tried both forward and revers in both low and high when disengaging diff lock, the warning light does go out. Doesn’t matter what gear I’m in I still get the grinding sound, all propshafts turn! 

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most likely your linkages that engage diff lock ON/OFF are loose and this results in the dog clutch that locks your diff not disengaging properly causing it to "rattle"/"grind" on the edge of the engaging teeth. as many have said above check your linkages first, I know its a PITA because you can't get in there properly but its a common problem, specially if the transmission has been worked on the the mechanics were confuzzled by the linkages and the need for the "little plastic bits" in the linkages that make them work properly.....I know I had to speak very loudly (shout) at my mechanics before they decided to understand

  • Haha 1
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There is no "false neutral" between difflock and open diff , do the test Taffy outlined to find which axle is affected then pop the rubber end caps off that axle to see the end of the half shafts and do the test again to check the drive member splines . If neither are stripped it will be something inside .

cheers

Steve b

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Hi. 

What do you mean by "all propshafts turn"? 

Only one or none should be turning when stationary and no difflock.

Try to put it in gear and release the clutch with no difflock engage. If no forward motion, then lightly engage the handbrake, if you get forward motion, then it is the rearaxle if not, the have a look at the front. 

/Mads 

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Okay so after a week of sh*t weather I’ve been reluctant to get under but now I’ve had a look I believe its the mechanism it’s self not engaging unlocked properly, which would explain the obscene amount of play in the stick which I never really noticed until now. Sorting it out this weekend! Massively appreciate all the advice and help. 
 

ill be sure to post an update once it’s sorted!

Tom

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If you have no drive without difflock in either high or low, it will not be a selection problem but something broken. Do the test to check if/which propshaft is turning and then check that axle. It could be diff, driveshafts, CVs (if front) or if you're lucky just the drive member on the hub.

Do keep us posted!

Filip

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  • 2 weeks later...
6 hours ago, western said:

Yes thats dead, 

on another note --- brake caliper, spliting them i not recommended, you should replace the 2 internal gallery seals before bolting the halves back together, the seals are LR part number 17H8764L 

thats a great tip, i didn't know that so thank you. its been a first for me stripping out the half shafts so been a bit of an experience for me. i've got a big order as while i'm at it my pads need replacing as well as wheel bearings and drive flanges. 

 Really appreciate all the help!!

As far as putting it all back together, is there anything i should be aware of that needs doing, will i need to pre load the axles when the the adjuster nuts go back on?

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make sure you when you refit the caliper together, apply some brake fluid to the seals & the bolts are tight.

for the hub bearings once refitted adjust the inner nut so there is minimal play, then fit the lock washer & outer nut, tighten outer nut & then bend over the lock washer so each nut is locked

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22 minutes ago, western said:

make sure you when you refit the caliper together, apply some brake fluid to the seals & the bolts are tight.

for the hub bearings once refitted adjust the inner nut so there is minimal play, then fit the lock washer & outer nut, tighten outer nut & then bend over the lock washer so each nut is locked

Fantastic. Thank you very much! I’ll post the outcome when it’s all fitted. Cheers! 

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9 hours ago, western said:

... for the hub bearings once refitted adjust the inner nut so there is minimal play, then fit the lock washer & outer nut, tighten outer nut & then bend over the lock washer so each nut is locked

to be honest ... switch to the later TD5 system with the distance between the bearings and only one nut wherever possible. This system will last significantly longer

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1 hour ago, Sigi_H said:

to be honest ... switch to the later TD5 system with the distance between the bearings and only one nut wherever possible. This system will last significantly longer

Really. I much prefer two nuts an lock washer.

Always use a new lock washer otherwise the nuts tend to sit in the groves of the old one maanng the bearings are not correctly adjusted

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some prefer adjustability, some prefer endurance. The distance in the bearing will always stay the same, because it depends to the hub. As long as you do not change the hub, distance will stay the same.

Imho it is important to really fix the inner rings of the bearings. If they can't move, the stub axle will stay in better condition, as long as the seal is ok.

Adjusting the bearings never is good for long time

Edited by Sigi_H
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The Td5 hub nuts are a pain to work on, the original 2 nut system is much more users friendly for the majority of LR owners. saves having to mess about with DTI's & different spacer distances, its OK for normal cars but not on a 4x4 where it may need repair in the field.

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