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Tom Grant

No drive in working differential!!

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11 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

some prefer adjustability, some prefer endurance. The distance in the bearing will always stay the same, because it depends to the hub. As long as you do not change the hub, distance will stay the same.

Imho it is important to really fix the inner rings of the bearings. If they can't move, the stub axle will stay in better condition, as long as the seal is ok.

Adjusting the bearings never is good for long time

Please exp-lain by a long time and why I should buy unnecessary expencive tools

 

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Mess with different spacers is only the first time. I always bought the biggest one and grinded it down on sand paper. I had to measure it exactly to avoid unparallel surfaces. Repair in the field remains still the same. I tried the TD5 system with TD5 nut and lock washer. I found out, that the lock washer is too soft. It will get squeezed and the bearing becomes loose.

I use now the TD5 System with dented nut and have spare nuts and Bearings with me.

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15 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

some prefer adjustability, some prefer endurance. The distance in the bearing will always stay the same, because it depends to the hub. As long as you do not change the hub, distance will stay the same.

Imho it is important to really fix the inner rings of the bearings. If they can't move, the stub axle will stay in better condition, as long as the seal is ok.

Adjusting the bearings never is good for long time

My 110 is on its original bearings as far as I know. Its 31 years old in July and has done 265,000 miles. I’d say the two nut system works pretty well from an endurance point of view!

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2 minutes ago, mmgemini said:

Please exp-lain by a long time and why I should buy unnecessary expencive tools

 

I believe, it is self explaining, why the newer system is a lot more stable. Really fixed inner rings of the bearing are important. Every engineer will tell you that.

But it is kind of philosophy, which sort of bearings you use. Since I prefer to change bearings and not to adjust them, it is the better system for me. My believe is, that bearings, which need adjustment are almost gone. You would never do that in your gearbox. There is always a spacer and the inner rings are fixed. They turn a lot more, than wheel bearings do.

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5 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

Mess with different spacers is only the first time. I always bought the biggest one and grinded it down on sand paper. I had to measure it exactly to avoid unparallel surfaces. Repair in the field remains still the same. I tried the TD5 system with TD5 nut and lock washer. I found out, that the lock washer is too soft. It will get squeezed and the bearing becomes loose.

I use now the TD5 System with dented nut and have spare nuts and Bearings with me.

So you cant tell me the mealage you do on bearings. Like reb78 I have a 300Tdi not as much mileage as his tho. I cut my teeth on Bristol wheel bearings in 1957. Two nut adjustment, only feel for the correct set. never had a problem. Not would I like to have to keep a spare hub spindly when the threads strip undoing the stake nut

To me the only better setup is the one employed an a proper VW

 

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, reb78 said:

... as far as I know ...

😇

As I told, it is nice to discuss philosophies but you never really can say, which one is better. Most of people reject the TD5 system, because the believe always to need a new spacer. Thats wrong.

Edited by Sigi_H

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3 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

I believe, it is self explaining, why the newer system is a lot more stable. Really fixed inner rings of the bearing are important. Every engineer will tell you that.

But it is kind of philosophy, which sort of bearings you use. Since I prefer to change bearings and not to adjust them, it is the better system for me. My believe is, that bearings, which need adjustment are almost gone. You would never do that in your gearbox. There is always a spacer and the inner rings are fixed. They turn a lot more, than wheel bearings do.

 

4 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

😇

As I told, it is nice to discuss philosophies but you never really can say, which one is better. Most of people reject the TD5 system, because the believe always to need a new spacer. Thats wrong.

NO I do not. I reject it because of the unnecessary tools. Micr

ometer and Dti for two

 

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9 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

😇

As I told, it is nice to discuss philosophies but you never really can say, which one is better. Most of people reject the TD5 system, because the believe always to need a new spacer. Thats wrong.

We owned it from 3 years old so they havent been changed in 28 years. Is that better? :)

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Just one example: I revised my front axle completely 70.000 km ago. Beside other journeys I did 2 times Iceland with crossing it several times on Sprengisandur, which is a really rattling pist.

Both front wheel bearings (old style) needed readjusting (ok, seals were gone as well). In my eyes this is normal livetime in hard conditions. No one of us would carry spare wheel bearings with him on a journey, if he could rely on 265.000 miles.

Stiffer bearings with spacer are my philosophy now.

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3 minutes ago, reb78 said:

We owned it from 3 years old so they havent been changed in 28 years. Is that better? :)

It is better 😉 ... individual case 😂

But do you really want to argue on philosophies? Advantages and disadvantages are told now and Tom can decide himself. Both will work.

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I dont want to argue at all. I am fine with my setup. 

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Just now, reb78 said:

I dont want to argue at all. I am fine with my setup. 

That's all, that counts 👍 I'm fine as well.

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Does anybody know the reason for why the near side is an abs cv and the off side is non abs cv? Just want to make sure I’m ordering the correct parts.

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Most likely been replaced with a ABS swivel by the previous owner.

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I’ve never had a problem in 20 years and well over 200,000 miles with the old two-nut system; I’d wager the later system was cost engineering, either in parts or in assembly time.  No need for DTI, either, just turn the inner nut until the slack is gone but no more and then fit the rest (a single handed grip on a greasy box spanner for that nut is a good technique).  The wear I had on my front stub axles at around 250,000 miles was evidently due to the offset 8- spokes, but wasn’t enough to warrant new stubs; it was the grooves and pitting on the seal land that mandated a replacement.  The old nut system works fine. 
 

Back on topic, that CV has a lot of debris damage.  I wonder if the ABS sensor broke up and did the rest of the scratching.  The splines at the hub end look terrible, but I couldn’t see if they were stripped or just heavily worn.  Removing or destroying the seal inside the half shaft will keep the splines lubricated and prevent rapid wear or corrosion.  Just make sure to bond the plastic cap on with some RTV to prevent leaks.

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Hi chaps, my apologies for not replying been fairly busy and just completely forgot to be honest. Happy to report its all back up and running and seems to be okay!

what i replaced:

Half-shafts, CV joints, stub axles, wheel bearings, drive shaft wheel flanges, both callipers along with new pads, fresh oil and brake fluid. 

As i once said i had never done anything like this before, i'm only 19 😂 But i'm confident that with a little engineering knowledge and following the Haynes manual, the work i did is up to standard.  For those of you who suggested the later system of the bearing nuts, i see your point but i'm happy with the two nut system and seems to work perfectly fine so i shall keep it that way. Thanks to all of you for the advice and knowledge, was a massive help!

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Good to hear Tom , did you find a clear fault ?

cheers

Steve b

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11 hours ago, steve b said:

Good to hear Tom , did you find a clear fault ?

cheers

Steve b

I didn’t no, I will be keeping an eye on it for the meantime but I never found the cause 😬, the splines on the cv joints where very warn, it looks like they have been on their way out for a while along with the splines on the wheel flanges, they too where very warn! 

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