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How to line up a 110 roof?


soutie
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How does one line up the 110 roof when refitting it? I put my roof on and then started at the back with the nuts and bolts working towards the front, however my left hand side overhands the screen by about 5mm.

Should I undo all the bolts and start from the front two corners and then the rear two corners and then work my way from front and back to the middle? Or is there any other trick to this?

 

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I had friends help lift the roof on yesterday. Then put in a bolt either side of the rear door and then lifted the front to put windscreen sealer on the front seal. Lowered it and then started from the back to find the front left has a 5mm gap when finishing up. The right hand side was fine.

 

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Soutie dont forget that LR was built with a ½" tolerance, so anything less than 12,7mm is "straight" and correct 🤣

jokes aside, I always ensure that my door pillars are straight (more important with a single cab than a SW) and then find the middle ground with the rest of the bits.

as Western suggests, assemble all loosely, check straightness and alignment of B post and C "post" - then find middle ground so that everything sort of "fits"

- dont forget some sikaflex to help the alignment errors 

- most importantly DONT SEAL YOUR FLOOR - the land rover WILL leak, the water needs to escape somewhere 😉

if by some chance you find your roof fitting perfectly then you have probably misappropriated the neighbours G class merc, they look quite similar to LR.

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Soutie, remember that your body is a bunch of bits bolted together, each one could have a little error that adds up to a lot.

maybe the problem starts right down in your firewall attachment, extrapolates itself through the long lever of the firewall and then the windscreen adds another 2mm and suddenly you have 5mm too much, question is whether all the extra effort to find the error is worth it or if you are happy with a bit of extra sikaflex and can "not see" the 5mm overhang each time you walk past the front of the car 🤣

actually do yourself a favour and fit your doors temporarily, this is the quickest way to know where the error is, cause its the fitting of your doors that are going to give you the biggest headache if your cab is not "right", remember your door can't change shape and your cab can, so your cab needs to change shape till it fits the door. nothing worse than fitting a door to a newly rebuilt cab only to have it eating the paint on the front top corner or back top corner.....makes you very grumpy very quickly.

Edited by bodumatau
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Thanks for all the comments. I will look at taking the the spacers out on the bulkhead on the passengers side to see if that pull that side up. I put back in what I had taken out when stripping her down to the chassis. I will also not bolt everything up before test fitting the doors.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/18/2020 at 10:54 PM, soutie said:

Thanks for all the comments. I will look at taking the the spacers out on the bulkhead on the passengers side to see if that pull that side up. I put back in what I had taken out when stripping her down to the chassis. I will also not bolt everything up before test fitting the doors.

any luck Soutie ? are you throwing hammers around the workshop and frothing at the mouth or loving the way your cab fits?

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Sigi_H thanks for the tip about the front screen clamps. Took them off the frame. Had undone half the bolts on the front half of the roof. A bit of wood to help align it and now have it where can live with it. Need a friend's help to squash the corners down to get these 2 bolts in, but that is a job for next week.

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Soutie, you can also win probably 2,5-3cm steering wheel space, if you loosen all the bolts through the firewall and push the whole contraption towards the middle of the car it makes a huge difference to not bashing your elbow on the windscreen each time you turn a corner, I am slightly bigger than the average human and it made a big difference for me.

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