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I’m a new Defender owner and have a lot to learn. The truck has been fully serviced and inspected. Mechanic said she is in good shape. My current issue seemed to happen overnight. When I try to shift into 1 or reverse after starting up the stick is blocked from going in. When I turn off the truck and shift it slides in easily. 
 

I was told sometimes you need to “reset” the 4x4 stick to open the pathways but it doesn’t seem to work. I have set the 4x4 to the off position. Any ideas or tips would be appreciated!

Edited by IslandDefender90
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12 hours ago, IslandDefender90 said:

The clutch isn’t worn. It catches at the floor.  And if I start the truck with the stick in first it’s fine. 

Are you saying that when in gear, clutch pedal depressed, you lift pedal very slightly off the floor and the clutch engages? 

If so that may indicate a problem as I described earlier.  If the clutch can't fully disengage you will have problems selecting 1st gear.

The diff lock/hi-low selector being in neutral won't stop you being able to get in to 1st gear.  But lift the rubber boot off the gearsticks and see if some soundproofing is getting in the way.

 

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45 minutes ago, Eightpot said:

Are you saying that when in gear, clutch pedal depressed, you lift pedal very slightly off the floor and the clutch engages? 

If so that may indicate a problem as I described earlier.  If the clutch can't fully disengage you will have problems selecting 1st gear.

The diff lock/hi-low selector being in neutral won't stop you being able to get in to 1st gear.  But lift the rubber boot off the gearsticks and see if some soundproofing is getting in the way.

 

I will have a look under the rubber boot and see what’s going on. 
 

Is it possible for the 4x4 stick to disengage and be in a “1/2 way” position? i.e. between H and N

This would cause the inability to get into gear? 

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The transfer box has no effect on your gearbox- it is downstream and does what it's told.

The reason you can't select 1st is the clutch is not disengaged, so the input shaft of the gearbox is being turned. This affects the meshing of the gears, not allowing a tooth to align with a slot.  

The fix is usually simple and well known to any mechanic, or if you want to learn to do it yourself and have some tools and don't mind getting dirty, plenty of help here.

First step - take the lid off the clutch master cylinder and check the level of the hydraulic oil (which is brake fluid).

 

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2 hours ago, Eightpot said:

The transfer box has no effect on your gearbox- it is downstream and does what it's told.

The reason you can't select 1st is the clutch is not disengaged, so the input shaft of the gearbox is being turned. This affects the meshing of the gears, not allowing a tooth to align with a slot.  

The fix is usually simple and well known to any mechanic, or if you want to learn to do it yourself and have some tools and don't mind getting dirty, plenty of help here.

First step - take the lid off the clutch master cylinder and check the level of the hydraulic oil (which is brake fluid).

 

Thanks you! Ok! It’s an island truck and purchased for me to learn and fix it so yes! I’m ready to learn. 😁

 

if you know any posts or websites with the information I would be so grateful. 
 

I spoke with the guys I bought it from and he mentioned something about it having to be in reverse to take it out? He was speaking about the transfer box I assume. 

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How do you know its master and slave? Usually a slave will leak, master wont, so if you have no fluid leak the master is letting by, if you do have a fluid leak the slave is letting by. If both went at the same time you are either very very very unlucky or there is a different problem.

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If clutch master cylinder is leaking you will see fluid on the cab floor as it runs down the pedal arm. Slave leaking will allow fluid into the clutch bell housing a drip out of the wading plug hole. 

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