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Ashcroft Locker - how do I get these out?


elbekko

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Rebuilding Escape's old lockers to put in my P38, and want to replace all the seals due to the rather warm environment they've been exposed to.

These allen headed bolts do not feel like budging though. Tried with the manual impact, just stripping the head...

Are these loctited in and need heat? How do I get these out?

20200305_173330.jpg

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7 minutes ago, elbekko said:

Rebuilding Escape's old lockers

One careful owner, only driven on Sundays, very minor fire damage??? :hysterical:

I'd apply some proper penetrating oil, leave to soak and give them a good tap with a hammer/punch (NOT turning them) to see if that breaks the corrosion/old threadlock.

Failing that I'd weld a nut on and hope the heat did it  - looks like you've got room to weld quite a big nut on.

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14 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

One careful owner, only driven on Sundays, very minor fire damage??? :hysterical:

I'd apply some proper penetrating oil, leave to soak and give them a good tap with a hammer/punch (NOT turning them) to see if that breaks the corrosion/old threadlock.

Failing that I'd weld a nut on and hope the heat did it  - looks like you've got room to weld quite a big nut on.

Second that advice , just weld some nuts on 

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Ok guys no offence intended, but having had similar issues and the same response I would like to point out not all of us have access to welding gear on know what to do even if we did?

I appreciate you may know elbekko personally and he may well be a welding wizard so the replies are good and sound, but for some of us without welding gear what other advice can you give as this too would be very helpful?

Again no offence intended and by no way am I having a pop at anyone. 

Cheers Andy 

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7 minutes ago, Mutley said:

...for some of us without welding gear, what other advice can you give, as this too would be very helpful?

In that situation I'd get out a Dremel style tool. I'd fit two slitting disks on the same shaft.
This has two advantages, the discs seem to support one another, and despite the fact that twice as much metal is being removed, the discs seem to last longer than if only one is mounted on the shaft.

Secondly a wider slot is created, wide enough to take the thicker blades that come with an impact driver, because that, and a heavy hammer, firmly applied, is what is going to move the screws. Go for a 4lb hammer in preference to a 2lb hammer.
Don't neglect the importance of having a very solid support under the piece being worked on. You do not want to waste the force of the hammer blow by having the workpiece bouncing at every blow.

Slitting the head will introduce both heat and vibration to the screw, both helping to break the seal. Don't worry about putting small nicks in the metal surrounding the screw head, because you need a slot that is as deep as possible.

Regards.

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Ok, thanks for the advice everyone. Will be trying out the welder, although my success rate of welding nuts onto things isn't the best. Bolts seem to work better for some reason.

Hopefully new bolts won't be too hard to find.

15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

One careful owner, only driven on Sundays, very minor fire damage??? :hysterical:

... yes

Edited by elbekko
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