MagicMatt Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 I’m just restoring a 1983 series 3 swb. Does anyone have some pictures of how all the front and rear brake pipes are attached. Particular problems are: 1. Layout of brake pipes on front drums. I have four holes for pipe fittings, two top and two bottom 2. positioning of rear brake pipe that runs along axle thanks for any assistance Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 1) I presume you've two wheel cylinders per back plate? The route is, for a standard post rationalisation model. I think. Single line from PWDA to tee piece just behind no2 crossmember (with the steering relay in it). From the Tee under the chassis, plastic clip, back to the brake pipe bracket. From there is via Flexi hose to the little bracket on top of the swivel. Form this you go to into the top cylinder (hole 1), out (hole 2) and on to the bottom cylinder(hole 3), and finally the bleed nipple (hole 4). So, bleed nipple at the bottom, which is contra best practice, but there you go. The near side is identical, except the pipe from the Tee goes along no 2 crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 2) back axle. Same concept, but the Flexi pipe is to the Tee on the axle, and then goes to the back plates. Underneath the check strap brake line protector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMatt Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Gotcha, thanks for that Gazzar. surprised that the bleed nipple is at the bottom though that seems, as you say a bit contra as you say, don’t suppose that you have a pic of the back of the drum do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 You can run the pipes so that the bleed nipple is on the upper cylinder, I did that with mine years ago and it bled up no problem first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 .True! Some photos. I need to trust treat this one soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 (edited) It's more money, (and isn't it all) but whilst you're on, you might throw in a valve at each corner. Catches the pressure and holds the shoe on fluid-pressure, rather than sitting on the snails. This evens-out all sorts of things, including better matching the self-servo 'grab' of drums, and grants a degree of self-adjustment. I could go on, but whenever this is suggested there seems to be a heap of hassle, so best I leave it there. Let's just say, any vehicle after the early 80s has these in the MC or slaves anyway. One each corner because LR springs are so powerful, they defeat 10lb - one valve per at circuit. Edited March 22, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Tell me more about these things. Please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 (edited) In short, built-in to MC or caliper, or ABS unit, just about every vehicle on the road has these valves in some form. They catch fluid-pressure as you back-off your pedal. In the case of drums, the shoe sits on the fluid, not the mechanical adjuster. What most seem to forget is brakes must be consistent. Because fluid pressure in that circuit is equal, brakes are granted equal adjustment. Now the shoes sit equi-distant from their respective drum, hence next prod, the self-servo and 'grab-point' is timed and matched. Less chance of your leafer going 'squirelly' in a force-stop. As a rule, you'd put one per circuit as close to the MC as you can, thus catching a larger reservoir of pressure in that circuit. These 'drop' at 10lb. Your mileage may vary, but series springs are so grunty you likley want one each corner, which now means unless each valve 'drops' at the same rate, pressure isn't strictly corner-matched. However, penny to a pound, they'll be better corner-matched than two snails. And your springs can't get matched anyway. What we really want is one 20lb RPV. Which if this was factory fit, it'd have. Do not go away with the idea this is the perfect solution, but it helps. You'll get some self-adjustment and won't mess with your snails quite as much. Because we have no return springs, (spring is the square-seal) this is even more successful for setting pads on discs. Most disc era vehicles have a RPV anyway, but I digress. Edited March 22, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMatt Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Hi Gazzar et al did as suggested and fitted hose to pipe and in at the top of the drum, managed (finally) to connect top to bottom but now can’t get the bleed nipple into its hole am I being completely thick here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Undo the nuts holding the wheel cylinder on, enough to move the cylinder in a small amount. You see why people do modifications to the standard system, don't you! I think there are short bleed nipples.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 You will fold those lock tabs over before you take that on the road, won't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMatt Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Bless your cottons I think I’m about a year off even thinking about the road but yes I will and thanks for pointing it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMatt Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks for the help and advice as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMatt Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Hi Gazzar et al All brake pipes now fitted thanks to your advice, don’t suppose that you know the part number for the short bleed nipples do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citizen kane Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 On 3/21/2020 at 9:07 PM, Gazzar said: 1) I presume you've two wheel cylinders per back plate? The route is, for a standard post rationalisation model. I think. Single line from PWDA to tee piece just behind no2 crossmember (with the steering relay in it). From the Tee under the chassis, plastic clip, back to the brake pipe bracket. From there is via Flexi hose to the little bracket on top of the swivel. Form this you go to into the top cylinder (hole 1), out (hole 2) and on to the bottom cylinder(hole 3), and finally the bleed nipple (hole 4). So, bleed nipple at the bottom, which is contra best practice, but there you go. The near side is identical, except the pipe from the Tee goes along no 2 crossmember. Hope you don't mind me asking, who pegged your diff's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Nige. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 When he fitted the true tracs. Eagle eyes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citizen kane Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 I've been thinking about getting just the rear done and an Ashcroft ATB fitted but then I need half shafts as well and the price ramps up pretty quickly. Its on the wish list but so are a lot of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 These are 10 spline inner, 24 slim outer (lightweight flanges) in EN26 ish steel. Yes, pricey, but not unbelievable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citizen kane Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Its difficult to know where to stop, I would like to make the rear reasonably durable so I thought pegging then of course the two pin diff becomes the weak link, I figured an Ashcroft ATB is no more expensive than a 4 pin diff but its 24 spline so then I need Ashcroft half shafts, who makes EN26 10 / 24 half shafts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 GB engineering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 On 3/24/2020 at 7:26 PM, MagicMatt said: Hi Gazzar et al did as suggested and fitted hose to pipe Is that a steel pipe/line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMatt Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Not sure, could be, its the part that came from Paddocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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