Jump to content

Hole saws


Gazzar

Recommended Posts

I've to cut a circle out of a 15mm plate of aluminium. I was planning on using a hole saw to do this.

There's a bewildering choice out there, what should I buy to get a clean cut with a cheapo pillar drill?

In eBay?

IMG_20200328_123820.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used an Abracs brand as seen here:

it gave a clean cut on my old floor standing pillar drill and has the two pin locking mechanism so the hole saw is easy to remove after use.

And once you've bought the arbor you just need to buy the hole saw for future sizes.

Other brands may use the same locking features, but that's the one I opted for.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're good, are they? Shame there's nothing closer to 48mm. 4mm is a lot to remove with a Dremel.  

Maybe I should get a few stones for the die grinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Gazzar said:

They're good, are they? Shame there's nothing closer to 48mm. 4mm is a lot to remove with a Dremel.  

Maybe I should get a few stones for the die grinder.

If you can't get the correct size and intend to use a die grinder why not just drill a series of holes around the circumference and have less material to remove.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Gazzar said:

They're good, are they? Shame there's nothing closer to 48mm. 4mm is a lot to remove with a Dremel.  

Maybe I should get a few stones for the die grinder.

I was happy with the quality, I've used them quite a few times now and I still have all the teeth intact!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, miketomcat said:

Or use starrat  (spelling maybe wrong) hole saws you can get them in nearly every size.

Mike

As Mike says Starrett. IMO the best there is for the money. Thing with hole saws is that they are NOT precision things, even more so with a sloppy pillar drill. So allow for this to avoid disappointment, depending on how accurate it needs to be.

Get the arbour with locking pins NOT the one without, or it will keep you amused for hours trying to remove the saw from the arbour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bosch cobalt ones are good but there not the best for accuracy , a MAG Drill would be better I have used one in a pillar drill before at a structural steel place I worked at , don't know whether your supposed to , someone else set it up I just finished them off one day when they weren't there :ph34r: .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Run it slow , as slow as you can , iirc paraffin used to be considered a good cutting oil for ally , it reduces the tendency for the ally swarf to stick to the cutting edges .

As Ian says a mag. drill bit ( I call them rotabroachs ) which are a trepanning cutter would be more accurate but the hole saw will work fine .

cheers

Steve b 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a lathe and a face plate 4 jaw chuck.

I need a motor that works, though.

And I'm contemplating going 3 phase, so won't buy a new motor until I know if I can afford 3 phase.

The hole saw arrived today, when I've the 109 wiring tart up out of the way I'll get back to this. Hole saw and router will get me there.

I think.

IMG_20200330_175338.thumb.jpg.e4b501d85258e71d173f398c46392e21.jpg

 

Not an iPhone max. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a great offer. If I fail with the DIY, I'll be looking elsewhere.

But, I think I'll be okay, take it slow, clamp the heck out of everything. Use lube.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264001894926

 

Use this type. They are much much better than the pressed steel type. The leave a clean edge and don't wander on entry. These ones are cheap as chips and are still brilliant but not very deep. I would expect a brand name version to be deeper to allow cutting through a 15mm plate

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the lathe running, pop it in the 4 jaw! Nice and rigid, plenty of torque and perfect speed for a hole saw when in back-gear, and you can finish with a boring bar. Or just drill as big as you can and bore out. Doesn't take long. I keep a large drill that fits directly into the morse taper of my tailstock that's used almost exclusively for opening a hole large enough to get a decent size boring bar in. I'm no fan of home saws, I avoid if I possibly can. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lathe needs a new motor, I'll see how the cheapo pillar drill copes first.

I need to get in touch with Western power, to price 3ph.

There's 3ph actually going over the corner of the workshop, but the land is bad for a pole, on the side of a silt trap for the canal.

Another project....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/28/2020 at 7:57 PM, miketomcat said:

Or use starrat  (spelling maybe wrong) hole saws you can get them in nearly every size.

Mike

Another vote for starret here. Unless you've got enough torque to run something like a rotabroach.

Biggest problem with holesaws is most people run them waaaaaaay too fast. Which then causes them to both go blunt and wander around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy