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Team Idris

S1 rear tub work

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Rear RH wing and whatever else is messed up in its vicinity :D

First bit; how bad was the bad I had hidden under a thin sheet?

 

 

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Then the security cage was a nightmare to take off , but it looks cute :)

 

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Yay, someone sells rear panels for £104 on eBay so I don’t have make any.

Also, tub supports from the S1 club shop. Yes, you can buy them now so I buy two. I already turned two S3 ones into an S1 years ago, but it never happened?

 

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Some ‘doublers’ for the front and a day on the rear W with 16 tig rods :o Worth it though, the holes line up. By heck the ickle screws took some getting out from the loading strip on the tail!

Using a big strip of 5083 3mm stopped it warping again once I had it straightened.

 

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Yes, I had used the strip of ally for concrete shuttering last year :D
chop, chisel, drill, cut heat, beat, go have a brew, do more...

Four new ‘spats’ are going in. I had them before, but in 2020 they really are rotted out. Two on each side are also structural because the wing panel is more like a wok than a tea tray :P 

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The rear floor is awful and was made usable by a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Good stuff as well ! Here it gets chopped up to make a wood sandwich with a 1.5mm ally filling. You can’t touch this grade without annealing, so it gets some heat and a bashing. I use every clamp I have. This is an overpanel because the wing maybe wrecked, but it is spot welded on securely. I am thinking of dabs of body filler to stop the outer panel drumming?

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Craftsmanship. Nice.

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10 hours ago, Team Idris said:

I am thinking of dabs of body filler to stop the outer panel drumming?

I'd be concerned that the filler would crack away from one side or other,... maybe a butyl seal strip? (never sets, sticks like ....)

Looks great, ... and that does look like nice plywood, ... leave one in behind , that'll stop the drumming :ph34r:

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That is nice ! Great to see it coming back 😊

Please keep sharing please! 
 

I’d use sikaflex under the wing.

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Tiger seal to attach the dummy panel?

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11 hours ago, Team Idris said:

The rear floor is awful and was made usable by a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Good stuff as well ! Here it gets chopped up to make a wood sandwich with a 1.5mm ally filling. You can’t touch this grade without annealing, so it gets some heat and a bashing. I use every clamp I have. This is an overpanel because the wing maybe wrecked, but it is spot welded on securely. I am thinking of dabs of body filler to stop the outer panel drumming?

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HI Team Idris

Just been doing some work on my rear tub and found this stuff particularly useful

https://www.frost.co.uk/aluninium-epoxy-paste/

having cleaned up some electrolytic corrosion i used this to patch it rather than filler, but of course it could also be used to bond your panels together to stop rattling

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I also suspect that body filler may crack if sandwiched between the two skins. Could you drill out the spot welds to remove the original panel and plug weld the new to reattach? Alternatively, a good quality panel adhesive would do the job, and not leave a row of weld marks or a double skin to trap moisture.

An insurance body shop had to replace an accident damaged rear wing panel on my four year old Defender 110 CSW. They drilled out the spot welds and just used pop rivets to nail it back together (the heads of which didn't fall anywhere near a straight line). I queried this with my insurers and their body shop as being unsightly on a relatively new vehicle, even putting up calculations and manufacturers data to show that correctly applied Sikaflex panel adhesive is stronger in both peel and shear than the pop rivets - fell on deaf ears as it wasn't a Thatcham approved repair method!

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Glad you all like it :D

Would the body  filler crack if between two panels of the same thickness and size? Honest answer, RTV silicon sealer. It really grabs metals and it is flexible long term. 
The other thing I have been using is plumbers-gold, which appears to be car seam sealer? (Got half a tube off a mate) works great on the splash panels.

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, DaveSIIA said:

I also suspect that body filler may crack if sandwiched between the two skins. Could you drill out the spot welds to remove the original panel and plug weld the new to reattach? Alternatively, a good quality panel adhesive would do the job, and not leave a row of weld marks or a double skin to trap moisture.

An insurance body shop had to replace an accident damaged rear wing panel on my four year old Defender 110 CSW. They drilled out the spot welds and just used pop rivets to nail it back together (the heads of which didn't fall anywhere near a straight line). I queried this with my insurers and their body shop as being unsightly on a relatively new vehicle, even putting up calculations and manufacturers data to show that correctly applied Sikaflex panel adhesive is stronger in both peel and shear than the pop rivets - fell on deaf ears as it wasn't a Thatcham approved repair method!

Wow :o that is just nasty! 
 

Plug welding ally is a good way to get your butt kicked :) Or, if you have to, plug weld on a foundation strip and glue to that. *Maybe ally-mig would do it? But, if you put steel either side of the spot welder joint it does join the ally. It appears that ally has too low of a resistance to melt without big power, the steel brings that.

Edited by Team Idris

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“Change places” as the mad hatter says :) I know what to expect now.

dome or pop on the corners? They were dome, but they aren’t easy to get at. No room to swing a hammer . . .

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Air hammer?

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Pop rivets :D 

I will use dome head on the rest where applicable. 
I just cut the 2” by 1/4 strips for the roll bar (seat belt frame) They will stick through the floor where the recovery crane mount went (some sort of frame that clamped the chassis)

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Noooo two rivets have pulled through :(

okay, not huge really, but now I have to drill them and put longer ones in and hope... Good job I had to take it back off and could see the issue.

Three splash guards are in and sealed. Front pair need access holes, which is a small price to pay for giving the tub back its rigidity.

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Posted (edited)

Is the back square now? Yes :)

Does the tailgate fit anymore? No :(

Will it adjust on the four remaining bolts of the six? Nope :(

Can you file the slots longer? In the words of Churchill “Oh Yes” :D

Also, two views of the roll-bar mounts passing through the original crane mount holes. And the access hatch in the LH splash guard.

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Edited by Team Idris

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The 1/4” plate bars welded to the chassis. No side welds, because someone might want to remove them in the future.

No idea what I am making the roll-bar / seat-belt-frame out of, so generic 10mm holes.

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Posted (edited)

This is two coats, heavy horizontal and a light vertical. 
I can pop the rope hooks on before a final blast :) The interior is going silver with body coloured sides. 
*today was the three week mark since I started this task*

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Edited by Team Idris

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Oh my flippin’ heck gosh this is a bad truck :o Admittedly only £300 in 1986, but every single item of the body has an issue with fatigue?

I wondered why it had some weird looking backing plate. Turns out it was a bit of scrap metal they used to hold the latch in place.

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The rear tub work is down to the tedious small jobs, so here is the front end :D

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Still going. Security mesh is half done. (Was complete, upgrades) :)

The lower seat belt rail is in. Time to think about the should strap anchors...

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