uninformed Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Was there a reason to run it centred? does it make fabrication easier for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 Only to the extent I can use the pre-designed top mounts, Still undecided if I’m going to truss it. With the 3.5” x 3/8” wall axle tubes it seems a bit overkill.... other than that it just looks neater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 If your truss stops short of the ends, say inside the coil mounts not much point. Maybe better off running a back brace full length. keep up the good work though. Good to see something different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Welded out the top link mount, needs dressing & final weld onto the rear centre section. Then install the ARP studs & assemble to the axle tubes using the jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Decided to order new lower link brackets from Barnes 4WD, like how they wrap the axle and also how they protect the link joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 My main thoughts would be the mud collected in there tbh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 2 hours ago, NRS91 said: My main thoughts would be the mud collected in there tbh They’ll need to be angled down a bit to get the vertical separation for the links, shouldn’t be a real issue and a drain hole can always be added. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 Got the rear axle tubes, assembly time ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 Decided to mock it up with the 3rd & pinion angle gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 Looks nice and robust, keep the updates coming! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 So.. bit of a problem, checked & rechecked the tubes for deflection in respect to the front face & the drivers side is 3/8” rearward..... darn I said ! Out came the grinder & bye bye went the rear side welds trying not to gouge the tube too much. Next set it up with the jack off my Halfords pipe kinker & a chain. Tube pulled back quite easily and with a bit of additional pull to account for spring back it all sits true.... now just to decide how much preload to apply before I burn it all back in ? Educated thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 How did it creep with the internal jig in place? Obviously weld contraction will do that but I thought that was what the jig is there to stop. I guess it cannot stop it all, hope it is resolved in the rewelding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 It's a long piece of steel, with a very short attachment. 3/8" was pretty good going if you ask me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Sorry to hear that hope it comes good on the re-weld don't know if it's of any help but when I cut my mog portal axles I braced them internally and externally put opposite tacks in and then root welded and then fully welded external bracing was 6" channel everything stayed put hopefully I will have as much good fortune with the front axle when I swap tubes regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) I didn’t do a cooler root pass, just lots of tacks & burnt it in hot. Am thinking that’s what made it move more than the opposite side. Also, the jig has some flex in it too I’ve found, being a clamped assembly onto the rectangular tube. Have to figure a way to clamp it to the bench for the front axle or do the tacks & root in the jig then use the jack & chain for final burn in. The original jig design used a large plate with the sides bent down, I modified it to use the tube to save costs. Might be better to get some 5” x 5” tube rather than the 5” x 2” I got... but that’s all the metal shop had in stock at the time that’d work. Thinking of just putting a ‘T’ shaped top truss on it once I set the pinion angle & gets the spring pads on. Edited September 3, 2020 by landy_andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 One is a happy chappy..... got both sides within 0.25 degrees of true, so that’ll be less than 3/16”. Without some pucks & an alignment I bar can’t really get any closer. Next to set the pinion angle, add the spring & other brackets whilst I ponder a truss for it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Ah I understand, I thought the tubes on the end were a internal end to end brace, I did not realise until now that they are just the stubaxle tubes. In that case I am even more imressed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) Pinion angle worked out for a straight swap into the truck, spring pads & caliper brackets tacked on. Just need lower link brackets to finish up the welding. Edited September 6, 2020 by landy_andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 There is a good chance welding those spring seats and caliper brackets on have put your ends out of allignment. You really should be using an alignment bar once all is finished, then if out bend true with a porta power. As a note, welding the small Maxidrive difflock acuator weld on block to a rover housing requires about 5-6mm of pre stress in the housing, and that is a little 90x60mm rectangle block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 Brackets are only tacked on, will turn the power down when I burn them in. As a note the axle tubes are 3.5” OD x 3/8” wall DOM, so more resilient to heat effect when welding brackets on it but still need to be cognizant of it. Worked on the front axle yesterday, used then jig for initial alignment then dropped it on stands to allow it to be checked more easily as I tacked it up. Worked a lot better and only needed a little pull on the short side to adjust. Finally, added the knuckles & to start working out for the steering links etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 Thinking steering will be this using Moog & Barnes 4x4 parts.... TRE part numbers, note the longer tie bar end needs the hole reaming to accept the drag link end. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 They look beefy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: They look beefy... Off Chevy 1 ton trucks, probably the most common upgrade in NA apart from using heims. Some vehicle inspectors can get a bit iffy with heims as we’re not really allowed to use them in BC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted September 15, 2020 Author Share Posted September 15, 2020 Been working on what sort of suspension links to use, currently have my 3 Link setup but as the axle is a blank canvas and I can weld on whatever I want... ran the numbers for radius arms & a 3 link setup using the existing frame side & cross member mounts.... interestingly the radius arms have better AD number, not as low as I’d like but not 190% either. Radius arms 3 links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 On 9/15/2020 at 2:50 PM, landy_andy said: What am I missing? Looking at the lower link angles in side elevation, how the hell are they +1 and -2 Axle roll axis angle? looks like the uppers are determining that ? why would that be? Anti lift isnt great, Imo not sure youd notice a difference between those two high numbers, but the roll stiffness you would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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