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Cheap'ish 609 axle builds

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, NRS91 said:

My main thoughts would be the mud collected in there tbh

They’ll need to be angled down a bit to get the vertical separation for the links, shouldn’t be a real issue and a drain hole can always be added.

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So.. bit of a problem, checked & rechecked the tubes for deflection in respect to the front face & the drivers side is 3/8” rearward..... darn I said !


Out came the grinder & bye bye went the rear side welds trying not to gouge the tube too much. Next set it up with the jack off my Halfords pipe kinker & a chain. Tube pulled back quite easily and with a bit of additional pull to account for spring back it all sits true.... now just to decide how much preload to apply before I burn it all back in ?


Educated thoughts ?

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Sorry to hear that hope it comes good on the re-weld don't know if it's of any help but when I cut my mog portal axles I braced them internally and externally put opposite tacks in and then root welded and then fully welded external bracing was 6" channel everything stayed put hopefully I will have as much good fortune with the front axle when I swap tubes regards Stephen

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I didn’t do a cooler root pass, just lots of tacks & burnt it in hot. Am thinking that’s what made it move more than the opposite side.

Also, the jig has some flex in it too I’ve found, being a clamped assembly onto the rectangular tube. Have to figure a way to clamp it to the bench for the front axle or do the tacks & root in the jig then use the jack & chain for final burn in.

The original jig design used a large plate with the sides bent down, I modified it to use the tube to save costs. Might be better to get some 5” x 5” tube rather than the 5” x 2” I got... but that’s all the metal shop had in stock at the time that’d work.

Thinking of just putting a ‘T’ shaped top truss on it once I set the pinion angle & gets the spring pads on.

Edited by landy_andy
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One is a happy chappy..... got both sides within 0.25 degrees of true, so that’ll be less than 3/16”. Without some pucks & an alignment I bar can’t really get any closer.


 Next to set the pinion angle, add the spring & other brackets whilst I ponder a truss for it.

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There is a good chance welding those spring seats and caliper brackets on have put your ends out of allignment. You really should be using an alignment bar once all is finished, then if out bend true with a porta power. 


As a note, welding the small Maxidrive difflock acuator weld on block to a rover housing requires about 5-6mm of pre stress in the housing, and that is a little 90x60mm rectangle block.

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Brackets are only tacked on, will turn the power down when I burn them in. As a note the axle tubes are 3.5” OD x 3/8” wall DOM, so more resilient to heat effect when welding brackets on it but still need to be cognizant of it.

Worked on the front axle yesterday, used then jig for initial alignment then dropped it on stands to allow it to be checked more easily as I tacked it up. Worked a lot better and only needed a little pull on the short side to adjust.




Finally, added the knuckles & to start working out for the steering links etc.


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Been working on what sort of suspension links to use, currently have my 3 Link setup but as the axle is a blank canvas and I can weld on whatever I want... ran the numbers for radius arms & a 3 link setup using the existing frame side & cross member mounts.... interestingly the radius arms have better AD number, not as low as I’d like but not 190% either.

Radius arms


3 links


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On 9/15/2020 at 2:50 PM, landy_andy said:


What am I missing? Looking at the lower link angles in side elevation, how the hell are they +1 and -2 Axle roll axis angle? looks like the uppers are determining that ? why would that be? Anti lift isnt great, Imo not sure youd notice a difference between those two high numbers, but the roll stiffness you would. 

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