Jump to content

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Red90 said:

The roll calcs do not work as he is not using a triangulated 4 link, but a 3 link with panhard.  You need to use the 3 link calculator to get the roll info.

Yes, I know.... more interested in getting the AD down at present if I can, otherwise it’ll be some radius arms. Will stick the numbers into the 3 link sheet with the current track bar & post up.

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, landy_andy said:

Yes, I know.... more interested in getting the AD down at present if I can, otherwise it’ll be some radius arms. Will stick the numbers into the 3 link sheet with the current track bar & post up.

The only way you will do that is by raising the chassis end of your 3rd link. Im sure you have done what you can, but with those chassis limitations, your anti lift is going to suck.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, uninformed said:

The only way you will do that is by raising the chassis end of your 3rd link. Im sure you have done what you can, but with those chassis limitations, your anti lift is going to suck.

Yup, tried that and to get anywhere sensible the link needs to be inside the gearbox. No room on the frame side due to the exhaust and even then at full stuff the link is hard up against the oil filter with a 4” axle top link to get a reasonable axle end separation approaching 25% of tire height.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you "can do anything" then throw all that stock geometry in the garbage.  At the lift height you are at, it gives poor geometry.  You want 4 link in the front with much longer links. To me it is crazy limiting yourself to stock mount locations.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Red90 said:

If you "can do anything" then throw all that stock geometry in the garbage.  At the lift height you are at, it gives poor geometry.  You want 4 link in the front with much longer links. To me it is crazy limiting yourself to stock mount locations.

Been looking at it this morning, without remaking the exhaust Y pipe, and relocating the oil filter I’m really stuck with room for the upper link at full stuff for a reasonable axle link separation and am also limited by my saddle gas tanks & skid plates.

If I use the existing front mount as a hard point and build a bracket that sits below & behind it I gain 5” of link length and reduce the effective angle of a radius arm to about 10 degrees or less over mounting in front with the bracket I posted earlier.

So, from this...

E57B9155-3029-4B33-B6BB-DA7CA917EFEB.thumb.jpeg.c0d1d06e412a05718b6149d3fa63c44a.jpeg

to this...

F06079D9-995E-4239-A417-8DDEDC2D0377.thumb.jpeg.f1246048d0571ac8dad038de1302dce5.jpeg

Would make it much better geometry and less reactive to pushing up.

Really need to get the truck on the road and make the 609 axles a ‘bolt in’ swap (apart from the panhard & steering links etc) in spring or when I can afford to buy/build the 3rds.

Thinking the existing front chassis mounts are beefy enough to accept some rotational moment from the new brackets being hung off them. Could always brace into the frame behind them with a bolted through gusset.

Link to post
Share on other sites

So, if I use my existing 3 link x-member as a datum, make the upper link off he front of it, make some new lower mounts that move the frame end back & downwards, then accept an axle separation of 6” we get.....

6569DE94-D1A4-49B4-963A-A1A44086056A.jpeg.4b2b2e9d25e98305fc3adc6aa1357ad8.jpeg
 

This is using the stock panhard frame & axle locations so, those numbers will probably change  a bit once I get the axle under the truck and adjust for the revised steering linkages.

Doing this gives me just enough up travel for the upper link to not crunch the oil filter. If I made that remote then I’d be able to squeeze a bit more axle separation but as the links are virtually above & below centre line it’s probably not worth it.

Thoughts.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you push the axle end of lowers outwards to gain a little triangulation? That would lower Axle Roll Axis. Or remote your oil filter, move both upper and lowers up to get a similar Anti lift number with lower ARA. If you are keeping the stock Radius arm mount and building custom off that, make sure your arm doesn’t fowl on it at full up cross articulation.

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, uninformed said:

Can you push the axle end of lowers outwards to gain a little triangulation? That would lower Axle Roll Axis. Or remote your oil filter, move both upper and lowers up to get a similar Anti lift number with lower ARA. If you are keeping the stock Radius arm mount and building custom off that, make sure your arm doesn’t fowl on it at full up cross articulation.

I should be able to move the axle end of the lowers out by 1” on both sides (or at least right up against the inner C’s) due to the axles being wider, will check tonight.


At worst, these numbers are significantly better than radius arms 😁

Have already ordered a couple of joints to mock up the arms to check for binding at full stuff & flex 😉

Edited by landy_andy
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/18/2020 at 6:27 AM, landy_andy said:

I should be able to move the axle end of the lowers out by 1” on both sides (or at least right up against the inner C’s) due to the axles being wider, will check tonight.


At worst, these numbers are significantly better than radius arms 😁

Have already ordered a couple of joints to mock up the arms to check for binding at full stuff & flex 😉

Managed to move the axle ends out a small amount, with the brackets hard against the inner ‘C’ the RAA dropped to 6.18 degrees. Best we can get I think for now.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, uninformed said:

every bit helps.

 

What rim size and offset/backspace are you running?

 

15” Stazworks double beadlock, with 2.5” of back spacing.... should have been more but they messed up the order. Didn’t know until they arrived & too late then to fix them then.....

Did get the rear axle just about finished, just needs a few threaded blocks to fix the brake lines too welding on the back side.

6E36F51B-BBD3-4BDE-B703-9ED8F3079B14.thumb.jpeg.2c3e6862d2d32564d92fc70be88f4f9f.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m guessing 8” wide or more? 
 

Also guessing you already had them... and I probably should not say this as you can’t change what you have done, but if building custom housings why not make them wider and go positive offset.. you get a few benefits.

 

I also would have triangulated your rear trailing arms. 
 

but keep at it bud. 👍

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy