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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:

I was meaning more that its not going to be difficult to put forces on it that aren't just straight ahead. So bracing to somewhere else adds a load more resistance to it being twisted.

Ok, I see what you mean.... with the changed the design from the first with a bent plate to the shaped side plates that wrap down & around the existing mount, this should make the assembly significantly stronger, once I can measure up the clearance I can tie the front & bottom plates together too. Also looks like the front plate will jam nicely against the frame to prevent the whole assembly trying to rotate around the 1” bolt.

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Got the new lower link frame mounts drawn up. Couldn’t find an easy way to tie into any other existing holes so will give it a go as is.



These will give us this in the link calculator.


The anti-dive is an improvement over the existing setup of 190%. As always when your having to work around fixed points and trying not to rebuild the truck again, packaging becomes a compromise of ideal numbers vs practical solutions.

Once I get them fabricated up I’m planning on borrowing the truck lug nut torque wrench from work... click those 1” bolts of at 500lb ft 😀

Edited by landy_andy
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After some more deliberation with a few cold ones.... quite a few 😜

Figured if I extend the horizontal plate out I can tie it into the lower face of the frame rail where the radius arm mount is welded on and use a captive bolt plate inside the frame via a drain hole.




This should hopefully prevent any rotational or shear loads affecting the mount.

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