Jump to content

Constantly replacing Hub Seals, but why?


Landrover17H

Recommended Posts

I think that the leather used nowadays is different to when they used leather to seal everything, and the tanneries were heated up for it.

I'd switch to a decent synthetic seal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a bad leak from the hub seal.  As I said, I thought you’d tamed that.

If you are sure you don’t have a comparability issue between the era of stub axle and seal land and the seal that you’re using, then it could be a manufacturing flaw with the seal lands.  They’re aftermarket, being stainless, so while stainless would be fantastic for avoiding the pitting that happens later and hopefully good for reducing the groove cutting if the seal, being harder, there is an increased chance of them being an incorrect size.  I would check a new, uninstalled seal over them to see how tight they are - they shouldn’t just slip on.

The leather and rubber seals contact roughly the same spot on the seal land, so I don’t quite follow the comment above about metal contact.  Both types should sit firmly in the hub, with either a rubber or leather lip running on the land.

It’s worth checking the measurements of the hub distance from the brake back plate and the seal from the back edge of the hub so that you can check that the seal lip is fully engaged on the land.  If pressed too far in, the lip may be running on the edge of the land, which would cause trouble.

Clutching at straws, but you definitely fit the right way around, didn’t you?  Hollow side toward the bearing, flat side toward the diff...

As for the exterior leaks, make sure the groove for the o- ring Is clean and undamaged, and check the cone for roundness and scoring.  Fit a new o-ring and all should be good, but I’d not be surprised if Britpart sell cheap o-rings with too thin a section that doesn’t seal correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/4/2020 at 3:39 PM, Snagger said:

That is a bad leak from the hub seal.  As I said, I thought you’d tamed that.

If you are sure you don’t have a comparability issue between the era of stub axle and seal land and the seal that you’re using, then it could be a manufacturing flaw with the seal lands.  They’re aftermarket, being stainless, so while stainless would be fantastic for avoiding the pitting that happens later and hopefully good for reducing the groove cutting if the seal, being harder, there is an increased chance of them being an incorrect size.  I would check a new, uninstalled seal over them to see how tight they are - they shouldn’t just slip on.

The leather and rubber seals contact roughly the same spot on the seal land, so I don’t quite follow the comment above about metal contact.  Both types should sit firmly in the hub, with either a rubber or leather lip running on the land.

It’s worth checking the measurements of the hub distance from the brake back plate and the seal from the back edge of the hub so that you can check that the seal lip is fully engaged on the land.  If pressed too far in, the lip may be running on the edge of the land, which would cause trouble.

Clutching at straws, but you definitely fit the right way around, didn’t you?  Hollow side toward the bearing, flat side toward the diff...

As for the exterior leaks, make sure the groove for the o- ring Is clean and undamaged, and check the cone for roundness and scoring.  Fit a new o-ring and all should be good, but I’d not be surprised if Britpart sell cheap o-rings with too thin a section that doesn’t seal correctly.

Replaced both sides hub seals this weekend. The o/s had a synthetic one but I don't think I tapped it in far enough. The n/s had the metal and leather - it would seem it hadn't sealed. What I don't follow is the metal and leather seal is thicker than the synthetic one so maybe does not seal against the land... but I will only fit the synthetic ones now. The front oil leak may have come from the thin paper gasket which I have replaced using hylomar as well.

Seems to have sealed this time so many thanks for your help and advice.

IMG_20200612_130453.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, the paper gaskets for the drive flanges - were they the thin, smooth paper or thick and a little rough, like thin card board?  The thick type tends to compress after a short while and needs the bolts nipping up again, but do allow better for damaged or warped faces.  The thin gaskets don’t shrink like that, but do need smooth faces to seal against.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Snagger said:

Out of curiosity, the paper gaskets for the drive flanges - were they the thin, smooth paper or thick and a little rough, like thin card board?  The thick type tends to compress after a short while and needs the bolts nipping up again, but do allow better for damaged or warped faces.  The thin gaskets don’t shrink like that, but do need smooth faces to seal against.

Thin smooth paper type. With paper gaskets I always have used a smear of grease on any motor. It would seem that some hylomar to help seal against any imperfections are worthwhile. New to LR so still finding out the necessary quirks that one needs to acquire. Many thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy